All Motor LS
Has anyone messed around with this setup or even took it seriously... I've heard good things about this setup but as whole i want to get opinions from more than just one person. As for me I want to go all motor LS if its worth it. Please post your opinion and even your setup and times. Thanks in advance.
Ive heard of people putting CTR pistons, with a fully built head yeilding quite nice results. Port and polished LS heads are friggin cheap! As well as the cams, and everything else, they are very cost effective when compared the vtec cams and such. It would make a very nice, fairly unexpensive peppy car. I've heard of people hitting low 13's with a setup like that, in a hatch. I think its worth it, if thats the avenue you wish to persue.
Well actually i went to some races a while ago and a guy in a 92 integra with an all motor ls was breakin people off man. I figured what the hell i don't know too many people who have done it but i always wanna be different so thanks for the advice.
92 eg si, b18b , b16 tranny , .005` ( fifty thou ) off the head, Guge old school cams, toda gears and ITR throttle body. Went 14.01 at pomona with a shitty 2.1 60' if i didnt break out i know i could have hit a high 13 in street tires. Charels dynoed it at area 51 and it made 155 and i forgot the touq because i was in shock of the HP.
please do search. it has been covered many times before and there are a few h-t memebers who have made great results with the LS-B20 all motor route (HX_Guy and allmotorls95)
here is what i thing you will need to run low in a 2200 lbs car
daily driveable and street octane friendly:
b18-B20
sleeved to 85mm
atleast 11.1 to 11.8cr 85mm pistons
rods
apr rod bolts
Rebuilt with OEM bearings and seals
RSmachines crank work
fully balanced (rods, rod bolts, flywheel with bolts, ITR pully ect)
Z10 block guirdle
APR head bolts
Cosmetic 85mm custom head gasket(option in thickness..to counter the cr)
Spoon or morosso oil pan
REALLY good headers (Toda, Jun, Hytech, SMSP, AN-R, IB spec JG modded)
ITR/GSR factory oil cooler system
PE timing belt
Toda flywheel
PortFlow head
Ferra .5mm over-sized exhust valves with Ferra intake valve
titanium retainers
upgrade valve springs
Skunk2 intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold gaskets
ITR 62mm throttle body
3inch CAI with ceramic coating
apexi filter
RC 310cc injectors
Crower 62404's
Toda or skunk2 cam gears
MSD ignition
6AL or SCI
any blaster coil (except coil-3)
cap
Hondata s200
Installation
about 2 hours of full dyno tunning
you should be good to go with about 185-195whp with about 150tq. peak power at about 7600-7800rpms.
it is very exspensive and there are many other CHEAPER ways to be fast, just so you know.
HTH
here is what i thing you will need to run low in a 2200 lbs car
daily driveable and street octane friendly:
b18-B20
sleeved to 85mm
atleast 11.1 to 11.8cr 85mm pistons
rods
apr rod bolts
Rebuilt with OEM bearings and seals
RSmachines crank work
fully balanced (rods, rod bolts, flywheel with bolts, ITR pully ect)
Z10 block guirdle
APR head bolts
Cosmetic 85mm custom head gasket(option in thickness..to counter the cr)
Spoon or morosso oil pan
REALLY good headers (Toda, Jun, Hytech, SMSP, AN-R, IB spec JG modded)
ITR/GSR factory oil cooler system
PE timing belt
Toda flywheel
PortFlow head
Ferra .5mm over-sized exhust valves with Ferra intake valve
titanium retainers
upgrade valve springs
Skunk2 intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold gaskets
ITR 62mm throttle body
3inch CAI with ceramic coating
apexi filter
RC 310cc injectors
Crower 62404's
Toda or skunk2 cam gears
MSD ignition
6AL or SCI
any blaster coil (except coil-3)
cap
Hondata s200
Installation
about 2 hours of full dyno tunning
you should be good to go with about 185-195whp with about 150tq. peak power at about 7600-7800rpms.
it is very exspensive and there are many other CHEAPER ways to be fast, just so you know.
HTH
the only reason I'd make an LS N/A motor is to hear the lopey *** idle from the nasty cams I'd throw in it.
Other than that, I really wouldn't bother building one up.
Other than that, I really wouldn't bother building one up.
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try a 95 mm crank, bored out to like 85, with a really good head w/ some agressive cams, you will get some really good low end and mid range, not to shure about top end with the rod ration but anything is possible, u seen juns all motor crx running low 11s, vtec killah!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
b18-B20
sleeved to 85mm
atleast 11.1 to 11.8cr 85mm pistons
rods
apr rod bolts
Rebuilt with OEM bearings and seals
RSmachines crank work
fully balanced (rods, rod bolts, flywheel with bolts, ITR pully ect)
Z10 block guirdle
APR head bolts
Cosmetic 85mm custom head gasket(option in thickness..to counter the cr)
Spoon or morosso oil pan
REALLY good headers (Toda, Jun, Hytech, SMSP, AN-R, IB spec JG modded)
ITR/GSR factory oil cooler system
PE timing belt
Toda flywheel
PortFlow head
Ferra .5mm over-sized exhust valves with Ferra intake valve
titanium retainers
upgrade valve springs
Skunk2 intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold gaskets
ITR 62mm throttle body
3inch CAI with ceramic coating
apexi filter
RC 310cc injectors
Crower 62404's
Toda or skunk2 cam gears
MSD ignition
6AL or SCI
any blaster coil (except coil-3)
cap
Hondata s200
Installation
about 2 hours of full dyno tunning
you should be good to go with about 185-195whp with about 150tq. peak power at about 7600-7800rpms.
it is very exspensive and there are many other CHEAPER ways to be fast, just so you know.
HTH
</TD></TR></TABLE>
expensive indeed. if you did all that work, spent all that money and came up with only 185 to the wheels, you would be one sorry sum-bitch. if your doing all that, go vtec and get at least 225 - 250 to the wheels with the same amount of cash. easy 220 to the wheels on pump gas even!!!!
....and todd, that lumpy idle does sound cool, but it doesn't get you a fast ET.
b18-B20
sleeved to 85mm
atleast 11.1 to 11.8cr 85mm pistons
rods
apr rod bolts
Rebuilt with OEM bearings and seals
RSmachines crank work
fully balanced (rods, rod bolts, flywheel with bolts, ITR pully ect)
Z10 block guirdle
APR head bolts
Cosmetic 85mm custom head gasket(option in thickness..to counter the cr)
Spoon or morosso oil pan
REALLY good headers (Toda, Jun, Hytech, SMSP, AN-R, IB spec JG modded)
ITR/GSR factory oil cooler system
PE timing belt
Toda flywheel
PortFlow head
Ferra .5mm over-sized exhust valves with Ferra intake valve
titanium retainers
upgrade valve springs
Skunk2 intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold gaskets
ITR 62mm throttle body
3inch CAI with ceramic coating
apexi filter
RC 310cc injectors
Crower 62404's
Toda or skunk2 cam gears
MSD ignition
6AL or SCI
any blaster coil (except coil-3)
cap
Hondata s200
Installation
about 2 hours of full dyno tunning
you should be good to go with about 185-195whp with about 150tq. peak power at about 7600-7800rpms.
it is very exspensive and there are many other CHEAPER ways to be fast, just so you know.
HTH
</TD></TR></TABLE>
expensive indeed. if you did all that work, spent all that money and came up with only 185 to the wheels, you would be one sorry sum-bitch. if your doing all that, go vtec and get at least 225 - 250 to the wheels with the same amount of cash. easy 220 to the wheels on pump gas even!!!!
....and todd, that lumpy idle does sound cool, but it doesn't get you a fast ET.
if youre willing to do this non-vtec N/A build up....just carb that baby with the usual 85~ish bore and some worthwhile head porting etc.... should rip pretty good...
There was a guy in stockton with a 89 honda civic gutted to the max. One piece front-end on slicks with a stock LS bottem end, ported LS head PYR racing head and cam.
He ran a very impressive 12.6 at CMI in sac about a year and half ago. As a matter of fact he was from Team SLR I believe.
He ran a very impressive 12.6 at CMI in sac about a year and half ago. As a matter of fact he was from Team SLR I believe.
For a race/strip proposition, ls,even b20 motors are a consideration. Unless you want to spend large sums of money, vtec is the way to ride on the street, bang for your buck... FOr the street=vtec, for the track=anything that revs very high will do...
yeah it's sorta not worth it but it is different than what everyone else is doing (B16-B18c-B18c5 or ls/b20-vtec) just somthing different to get you thinking more.
I personally would rather build it to make me happy and make me feel like my car is different among all other hondas if it was just different and unique. I call building a D16a6 all-motor worth my time. It just depends on the indivisual.
BTW who said the 404 gives you a looping/lumpy idle?
you can set adjust it the easy way and make it idle at 500rpms and haveit repeatedly go up to 1,100 rpms or you can just do it the right way and set your idle to about 950-1,000rpms. it's up to you.
I personally would rather build it to make me happy and make me feel like my car is different among all other hondas if it was just different and unique. I call building a D16a6 all-motor worth my time. It just depends on the indivisual.
BTW who said the 404 gives you a looping/lumpy idle?
you can set adjust it the easy way and make it idle at 500rpms and haveit repeatedly go up to 1,100 rpms or you can just do it the right way and set your idle to about 950-1,000rpms. it's up to you.
I have a ls/b20 in my car last night 1st pass on my new car, 91crx si gutted 1900 w/driver it ran 12.5@ 108. I made 198/148 but the head is ported that well. If you want the most power for cams get the Crane Cams#20 ,I picked up a little over .2 at the track over the 405A's.
how do the crane cams idle? ie does it idle a little lumpy at 1k or sumthin but barely run at 750? whats the powerband like?
no one seems to have either the 405a's or similar cam so its kinda hard to get experienced advice
no one seems to have either the 405a's or similar cam so its kinda hard to get experienced advice
The Cranes and the Crowers both idle rough , my car with stock ecu and afc idled at 900 and dropped to like 500 almost shuting off and restarting on the same stroke. It sounds bad *** but very intimidaiting. Sounds like a V8 fo sure
I've had big cams for about 3 years now. It was a little hard at first because no one had any advice for me so i had to learn on my own. But i'll help any one out with what i've learned thru the years.
so will it hold a solid idle at 1k then? im lookin at either the cranes # 20 or the 405a, prolly the crowers though. what was the powerband like what prm was peak tq and hp
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not really worth it</TD></TR></TABLE>
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