JDM SRS wheel install - my review and question about SRS light being on
edit: update, my SRS light is off and the pic at bottom shows where the SRS memory reset connector was.
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I installed the JDM wheel yesterday and I absolutely love it! I never thought I would go beyond spending a couple bucks on a JDM shift boot for cosmetic reasons, but after "trying out" the JDM wheel on several people's cars at the Expo, I couldn't pass on a good deal on Ebay when I got it for $350+shipping.
Unfortunately, when it arrived I found that while the wheel is in good shape, (90-95% new condition) the clip for the SRS hookup was cut and only the wires remained. After reading several posts on here about it, we decided to cut the SRS clip from my USDM wheel and soder it to the JDM wheel. Like people said in previous posts, the wires on the USDM wheel (yellow) and the JDM wheel (red) where both the same coming to the SRS clip, so we didn't know which way to wire it. But before we did that, we hooked just the wheel up to the car to test signal cancellation (another thing I had read people having problems with). We turned on the ignition and tested the signals and everything seemed fine, but the SRS light came on because of course the SRS unit was unplugged. Then we sodered the clip to the wires and hooked it back up. SRS light was still on. So we reversed the order it was connected and still the SRS light remained on. Next we hooked up a data-logger and suprisingly it did not detect an SRS fault code. Confused, my friend (midnight on HT) suggested that maybe the SRS code stays lit once triggered until the codes can be cleared. He didn't have a way to do this and suggested I take it to the dealer or a shop that could. Anyone think this is possible and that the SRS is in fact working but the code just needs to be cleared? That would suck if SRS is bad, but seems unlikely since the bag is obviously fairly new and never blown.
On my impression of the wheel... like I said, I wouldn't have done it for just *bling* and if I hadn't got a good deal on it, but man is it nice. Why Honda gave us that massive 4-spoke POS wheel to begin with is beyond me. The JDM wheel is SO much meatier at the 9 and 3 positions, and your thumb/fingers fit perfectly, it feels really is nice. The over all feel of the textured sections of the inside of the wheel is nice, and of course the red stitching and H add to the bling factor. It is a bit smaller then the USDM wheel, but not by a lot. All and all, I'd say if you run across a good deal on one (I wouldn't spend $900 like I've seen them for) it's definately worth purchasing.
(edit) cliff-notes: JDM wheel installed - love the bling and the feel, but SRS light stays on and wondering if clearing the codes will fix this
Modified by uncleben at 10:30 PM 5/26/2003
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I installed the JDM wheel yesterday and I absolutely love it! I never thought I would go beyond spending a couple bucks on a JDM shift boot for cosmetic reasons, but after "trying out" the JDM wheel on several people's cars at the Expo, I couldn't pass on a good deal on Ebay when I got it for $350+shipping.
Unfortunately, when it arrived I found that while the wheel is in good shape, (90-95% new condition) the clip for the SRS hookup was cut and only the wires remained. After reading several posts on here about it, we decided to cut the SRS clip from my USDM wheel and soder it to the JDM wheel. Like people said in previous posts, the wires on the USDM wheel (yellow) and the JDM wheel (red) where both the same coming to the SRS clip, so we didn't know which way to wire it. But before we did that, we hooked just the wheel up to the car to test signal cancellation (another thing I had read people having problems with). We turned on the ignition and tested the signals and everything seemed fine, but the SRS light came on because of course the SRS unit was unplugged. Then we sodered the clip to the wires and hooked it back up. SRS light was still on. So we reversed the order it was connected and still the SRS light remained on. Next we hooked up a data-logger and suprisingly it did not detect an SRS fault code. Confused, my friend (midnight on HT) suggested that maybe the SRS code stays lit once triggered until the codes can be cleared. He didn't have a way to do this and suggested I take it to the dealer or a shop that could. Anyone think this is possible and that the SRS is in fact working but the code just needs to be cleared? That would suck if SRS is bad, but seems unlikely since the bag is obviously fairly new and never blown.
On my impression of the wheel... like I said, I wouldn't have done it for just *bling* and if I hadn't got a good deal on it, but man is it nice. Why Honda gave us that massive 4-spoke POS wheel to begin with is beyond me. The JDM wheel is SO much meatier at the 9 and 3 positions, and your thumb/fingers fit perfectly, it feels really is nice. The over all feel of the textured sections of the inside of the wheel is nice, and of course the red stitching and H add to the bling factor. It is a bit smaller then the USDM wheel, but not by a lot. All and all, I'd say if you run across a good deal on one (I wouldn't spend $900 like I've seen them for) it's definately worth purchasing.
(edit) cliff-notes: JDM wheel installed - love the bling and the feel, but SRS light stays on and wondering if clearing the codes will fix this
Modified by uncleben at 10:30 PM 5/26/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncleben »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Confused, my friend (midnight on HT) suggested that maybe the SRS code stays lit once triggered until the codes can be cleared. He didn't have a way to do this and suggested I take it to the dealer or a shop that could. Anyone think this is possible and that the SRS is in fact working but the code just needs to be cleared?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Once the SRS light comes on, it stays on until you take it to the dealer.
Once the SRS light comes on, it stays on until you take it to the dealer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob#455 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once the SRS light comes on, it stays on until you take it to the dealer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks Bob#455, well then that's good news!
(anyone else confirm that?)
Hopefully once the code is cleared I can rest assured that the SRS is working and nothing is wrong. Guess we shouldn't have turned the ignition the first time with it unplugged
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks Bob#455, well then that's good news!
(anyone else confirm that?)Hopefully once the code is cleared I can rest assured that the SRS is working and nothing is wrong. Guess we shouldn't have turned the ignition the first time with it unplugged
Instructions on clearing the light:
You should be able to use a paperclip in place of the connector
You should be able to use a paperclip in place of the connector
Call me crazy, but in order to reset your ECU, can't you just unplug your ECU or battery??? Either that, or I was told by a number of people that pulling your hazard fuse under the hood did the same thing. I've actually tried pulling the hazard fuse, and it resets my CEL. Either way...which wires did you end up soldering???
Later,
Aj
Later,
Aj
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Dang that's a sweet deal, Ben. I hate the usdm steering wheel also. I had an rsx for a loaner car a while back, and I much prefer its steering wheel to ours.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris93Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SRS system has its own memory, resetting your ECU will not turn off the light
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That blows....
</TD></TR></TABLE>That blows....
How is your signal clicker working??? Since u have to move the Cable Reel out of alignment of USDM wheel position to accomodate JDM SRS hub?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris93Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Instructions on clearing the light:
You should be able to use a paperclip in place of the connector
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure? it says "do not use a jumper wire"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machgo5go »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is your signal clicker working??? Since u have to move the Cable Reel out of alignment of USDM wheel position to accomodate JDM SRS hub?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I don't understand the problem fully then. I did read the post about cutting the little nobby pieces on the reel to line it up, but didn't do it. And I did notice that the reel had to turn about a quarter-inch to go in the JDM wheel... but when I turn the wheel back from a turn, the signal cancels... full turn or short turns. I dunno?
You should be able to use a paperclip in place of the connector
</TD></TR></TABLE>are you sure? it says "do not use a jumper wire"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machgo5go »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is your signal clicker working??? Since u have to move the Cable Reel out of alignment of USDM wheel position to accomodate JDM SRS hub?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I don't understand the problem fully then. I did read the post about cutting the little nobby pieces on the reel to line it up, but didn't do it. And I did notice that the reel had to turn about a quarter-inch to go in the JDM wheel... but when I turn the wheel back from a turn, the signal cancels... full turn or short turns. I dunno?
I have used a paper clip myself and reset my SRS, no access to service connector.
As said above once the SRS comes on the only way is to reset it as shown. Then if connected correct should stay off.
As said above once the SRS comes on the only way is to reset it as shown. Then if connected correct should stay off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you know how fast you're going when your 120mph+?????</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why you don't go 120+.
That's why you don't go 120+.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skafia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's why you don't go 120+.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahah....no, that's why <U>You</U> don't go 120+. Besides, I'm sure that just about every one on this board at some time or another has lived on the wild side a little, whether it be on or off the track....
Later,
Aj
That's why you don't go 120+.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahah....no, that's why <U>You</U> don't go 120+. Besides, I'm sure that just about every one on this board at some time or another has lived on the wild side a little, whether it be on or off the track....
Later,
Aj
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you know how fast you're going when your 120mph+?????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Buy a Moogen seat, you can see all the gauges with the JDM wheel
I used a wire instead of the service connector and reset the light just fine.
Buy a Moogen seat, you can see all the gauges with the JDM wheel
I used a wire instead of the service connector and reset the light just fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hahahah....no, that's why <U>You</U> don't go 120+. Besides, I'm sure that just about every one on this board at some time or another has lived on the wild side a little, whether it be on or off the track....
Later,
Aj</TD></TR></TABLE>
On a stock ITR, if you redline 4th, you're probably going close to ~120, and redling 5th would put you around the ~140 range.
Hahahah....no, that's why <U>You</U> don't go 120+. Besides, I'm sure that just about every one on this board at some time or another has lived on the wild side a little, whether it be on or off the track....
Later,
Aj</TD></TR></TABLE>
On a stock ITR, if you redline 4th, you're probably going close to ~120, and redling 5th would put you around the ~140 range.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kendogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the jdm itr steering wheel smaller than the usdm wheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
By half an inch or so in diameter.
By half an inch or so in diameter.
i can't tell which one is the memory erase signal connector... can someone point it out to me? i have to unplug it first right?
sorry i'm so lame, just don't want to pull the wrong one
edit: updated pic - this was the connector:
Modified by uncleben at 10:29 PM 5/26/2003
sorry i'm so lame, just don't want to pull the wrong one
edit: updated pic - this was the connector:
Modified by uncleben at 10:29 PM 5/26/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00-ITR-373 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Buy a Moogen seat, you can see all the gauges with the JDM wheel
I used a wire instead of the service connector and reset the light just fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahaha....I was reffering to the fact that the JDM cluster doesn't read above about 120mph, not that you couldn't see the bottom of the cluster...
Buy a Moogen seat, you can see all the gauges with the JDM wheel
I used a wire instead of the service connector and reset the light just fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahaha....I was reffering to the fact that the JDM cluster doesn't read above about 120mph, not that you couldn't see the bottom of the cluster...



