I installed a P28 OBD I in my 00' EX D16Y8. Now, when I start the motor cold it revs up and down 500rpms from like 1500-2000 then idles high at 2000 for a couple minutes. Then when the idle finally calms down to normal at around 500 rpms it will idle down sometimes and almost stall then pick back up to 500 rpms. One time I started it and I couldn't keep it from stalling unless I held the gas down and kept the rpms at 2000. It kept idling down and stalling until the motor got warmed up. It only did that once though. Anyone else have this problem? How can I fix it?

 

bump

 

How did you wire it in? There are a few terminals that need to be swapped, but I do not know what they are.

 

ITR owners have the same problem too when installling a OBD1 p28. do a search in that forum for the fix. george knighton(sp?) and Kenji know how to fix the issue.


Modified by BCRUZ at 2:02 PM 4/20/2003

 

That sucks man...I wish I could help. I love when people make things out to be so simple, like an ECU swap...And they leave out all the other information that comes with it. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you wire it in? There are a few terminals that need to be swapped, but I do not know what they are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Andy made me a wiring harness. there are no cel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperStar19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">though u dont have all the kinks worked out yet, do you mind telling me what the performance is now because im thinking about getting a P28 myself on my D16Y8.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The performance gain is the way better tuning capability of OBDI.

 

Top speed limiter is still in place until I install the Hondata. Their is no direct perfomance change with a stock P28 as far as I know. It's the tuning capability gained that is the benefit and the elimination of emissions controls like the secondar o2 sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It's the tuning capability gained that is the benefit and the elimination of emissions controls like the secondar o2 sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Aka: Fatty straight (test) pipe...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BCRUZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ITR owners have the same problem too when installling a OBD1 p28. do a search in that forum for the fix. george knighton(sp?) and Kenji know how to fix the issue.


Modified by BCRUZ at 2:02 PM 4/20/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

How should i get ahold of Kenji? he has instant messages disabled.

 

Unplug your evap purge solenoid. That should vastly help the problem. Mine surges a bit a warmup, but it's not severe.

As for location, I can vouch for B-series location:

(quoted from another H-T member)

It’s on the fuel rail. It’s on top of the fuel rail, about in the
middle. It’s the only other thing on the fuel rail besides the
injectors that can be unplugged. It has one vacuum line connected to
it and that line then goes to the intake manifold. You can’t miss it.

I have mine unplugged. It sits on the fuel rail itself. Big black box.
My car idles so much better with it off with the P28 in.


So there you go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gamby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unplug your evap purge solenoid. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There you go. Don't bother searching for it, that's the answer.

 

Yeah, but everything you put on your car doesn't have to have a direct performance gain. The tuning capabilities gained by the P28 makes it one of the best upgrades possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I installed a P28 OBD I in my 00' EX D16Y8. Now, when I start the motor cold it revs up and down 500rpms from like 1500-2000 then idles high at 2000 for a couple minutes. Then when the idle finally calms down to normal at around 500 rpms it will idle down sometimes and almost stall then pick back up to 500 rpms. One time I started it and I couldn't keep it from stalling unless I held the gas down and kept the rpms at 2000. It kept idling down and stalling until the motor got warmed up. It only did that once though. Anyone else have this problem? How can I fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have EXACTLY the same problems in my car. 00 cx with a 99 D16Y8 and p28 ecu. Yet my car actually stalls sometimes because the idle drops down so low.

I'm going to try unplugging the evap solenoid to see what happens, have you done it yours yet?

 

I haven't tried it yet actually. I will though when i get a chance. Mine kept stalling once actaully but hasn't done it since. The idle is still screwed up though.

 

OK, i removed the evap solenoid and it works!

From the second I started up the car, I noticed a huge difference...no eratic idle and no shortage of fuel on cold starts.

I can't believe such a simple thing fixed my problem.
Thanks H-T

 

Do you just unplug the wiring going to the black box or actually disconnect both vac lines?

 

You're thinking too much. Simply unplug the plug that goes intot he solenoid. Tape it off if you're fussy. That's all.

 

Unplugged it and the idle is great! Thanks.