looking at the picture of your car from @ englishtown, i can't see where you decided to get air to your ITB's. i thought you were going to remove a headlight like the skunk2 integra, but it doesn't look like you did that.
do you have any pics of your engine bay you'd care to share?

thanks
argiris

 

i haven't is really the answer. When i received the TWM airbox i cut the holes in the backplate to put it behind the horns. I centered everything. Come to find out the airbox doesn't fit when its centered when you have an integra with the stock masterbrake cylinder and booster. The airbox is hitting it...rather..won't fit at all. As you can see from the photos there really isn't much room. I'm waiting for my replacement backplate so i can cut the holes more toward the passenger side. To date from the last photo you can see where i'm getting my air from....i lifted the back of the hood about an inch and a quarter or so.

maybe these will work
http://www.geocities.com/t-type3/P6080028.jpg http://www.geocities.com/t-type3/P6110039.jpg http://www.geocities.com/t-type3/P6110040.jpg http://www.geocities.com/t-type3/P6110041.jpg http://www.geocities.com/t-type3/P6130020.jpg

 

I had the same problem when fitting twin side draft Weber 45DCOEs. I ended up removing the booster, built a plate to mount to the firewall to accept the master cylinder and then built a new plunger rod from a bolt. I've been using the set up for about 8 years. Yes, you have to push harder on the pedal, but without ABS I feel that it is easier to modulate the brakes on a road course.

 

grrrr., cant get the pics

how do you plan to tune them to get the same amount of air into each?
will the induction box do this, or will you have to still go ahead and tune each one individually? i would imagine that with the induction box (not centered) there would be more air coming through some TB's than the others.

argiris

 

i apparently no longer have anymore free areas to use for photos...lol. geocities, photopoint and photoloft don't work anymore.

well......without the airbox its been working fine. idol is a little goofy but very smooth on throttle. I basically need more air though...and possitive pressure would be a big help as well. This airbox isn't any remarkable thing. your basically paying for something that would be a bit difficult to make yourself. its not sealed or anything....it prettymuch just fits in place to direct air..nothing more.

 

hey jeff, can you email me the pics if you have the time?

have you considered using long tapered runners to connect to the TB's?
maybe bringing air up to them from underneath the car. it should get you more turbulent air. then again, i am just thinking out loud.

argiris, who is visualizing a tapered "header" design for the TB's with a LARGE collector underneath the car scooping in air.....
i might just be loosing my mind

 

I have an interesting question. Why did you choose to go the ITB route versus say a ported/honed intake manifold and a larger TB? I assume you've done modifications to your cylinder head which allow more air to flow through, which would then make the stock TB and intake the bottleneck of your system. The reason I'm asking this is that there is the perception on this board that using a larger TB negatively affects low end power - would this not be even worse with ITB's. Thinking from an airflow point of view, ITB's must flow a hell of a lot more air than even the largest TB (say 70mm). What's your take on this Lip?

 

CHECK YOU EMAIL

 

couple things....my head is port matched to the twm's and my head is greatly worked

well...think about what the ITB's actually are. One throttle body per cylinder. how efficient is one manifold for 4 cylinders with one throttle body on one end of it? Just because you put a huge throttlebody on the end of a single manifold runner doesn't mean your helping the cause....but you may just have added more turbulance where the airflow is working against itself. Spoon tapers there tb to increase the speed of the air....not to throw 70mm's at it all at once. One of the reasons i choose the gsr head is its direct line into the combustion chamber compared the the slight angle of the ITR's head. Its a pretty simple concept if you can get it to work. dump air(alot of it) into a combustion chamber, dump fuel in a timely manner and enough of it that it burns all of it and hot after you've sparked the **** out of it and ignite all you thrown at it and get that hot *** gas the hell out of the exhaust side as fast as you can and as efficiently as you can. sounds simple huh? http://www.twminduction.com/Throttle...leBody-FR.html If your asking me why did i choose the 50mm twm's....well then i must say it was luck went that way. If i did it all over again? I'd go ITB's but i'd go with Toda or Blitz for only one reason that i know of so far....and thats the Throttle cable pulls on a linkage that opens up the plates which have "ball bearings". My Throttle linkage seems to swell a bit and get stuck a little at idol. no biggy...but sorta annoying.

i guess my answer to you regarding the itb's is efficency doen't hurt low end power....back pressure on the exhaust side increases it. but what the hell do i know. anyone else want to add to this...someone that knows what they are talking about?

 

eloquently put....

 

never said i was an english major...just didn't feel like stopping for puncuation. lol

And to think i never even mentioned compression

 

Jeff~

What does your ride idle at?

 

well...that depends. 1500-2k or if the throttle sticks 4k...lol

 

I guess your car idles like a MAN.

 

FYI Jeff, you can use http://www.clubphoto.com ...... until they go pay site like everyone else, that is!

 

not sure if that was for me, but i didn't receive any mail

argiris, who still wants to know if his idea is a logical one.

 

ARGIRIS- OR ANYBODY ELSE OUT THERE THAT WANTS TO LOOK AT GEOCITIES' PHOTO'S FROM A FORUM
after clicking the url, that page that says this is not available will come up, then just go up to the url again and press enter viaola you have the pic. hopes this helps

 

i tried that, i didn't work for me though

 

argiris,

I tried to send some pictures to vze23c6j@verizon.net is that not a good email?

 

Lip--I don't know if someone mentioned this before, but why not try a hood scope design similar to the Subaru Impreza.

Cold Ram Air, no?

 

Lip,


Did it take awhile to tune the ITBs??? Did you do a baseline dyno without tuning them? How much difference did it make after tuning???

O yeah why did you go with the TWM ITBs?? i think ive seen the blitz ITB's for under $2,000 and i believe they dont use a chain but a ball bearing setup......

Did you ever consider try running carbs?? Ive heard in japan everyone is using Dual mikuni carbs..not sure if they are converting them to ITB's, but did you ever consider this route??

 

lip i saw that run on saturday when u lost traction threw out the whole track.......i was really hopeing it was ok......did u break an axle?

 

Yep, he broke an axle. I was knee deep in axle grease after his run.

Lip should post his video of that run. For a split second it looked like his car was breaking loose like those 800hp RWD muscle cars do. I had visions of Lip losing control and colliding with the Toyota(?) in the other lane. Poor Kamil couldn't decide if he should keep filming or run down the track and grab Jeff's ITB for when Kamil decides to go back to drive a real mans car. Just playing Kamil, your Bimmer is beautiful.


[Modified by Christian, 4:37 AM 6/20/2001]

 

Thanks dude...
Well, when your car runs half way good, and maybe someday it will, we shall line up.
On the street, on street tires.

Seriously, it did look like he couldn't keep it under control, when I was taping that run, I was like "No way, he can't be makeing THAT much power"

-Kamil, who's taking a break from "real man's car" to savor the taste of his grey pupon. We'll be back in a three years for sure though.