Re-torquing crank bolt after valve adjustment
if you turn the crank with a ratchet slowly during valve adjustment you dont need to retorque it, unless you took the bolt off of turned it with an air ratchet.
I'm going to take a guess and say because you made several manual rotations of the crank by way of adjusting the valves, I'd say they're over paranoid of possibly lossening the bolt.
Probably not that helpfull... worth atleast a bump.
___EDIT___ What he said^
[Modified by oryanh, 2:12 PM 3/25/2003]
Probably not that helpfull... worth atleast a bump.

___EDIT___ What he said^
[Modified by oryanh, 2:12 PM 3/25/2003]
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isnt it torqued on at like 130 lb/s
which is pretty damn hard to loosen, no?
which is pretty damn hard to loosen, no?
whats wrong with just leaving the car in gear and pushing it to rotate the crank? i never both with that bolt..
Just adjusted my valves today: 2 a little tight, and 1 a little loose. Didn't re-torque the crank bolt.
isnt it torqued on at like 130 lb/s
which is pretty damn hard to loosen, no?
145 I think? whatever it is I just impact it back on when I do remove the crank pulley bolt.
which is pretty damn hard to loosen, no?
145 I think? whatever it is I just impact it back on when I do remove the crank pulley bolt.
)
fwiw - It's actually 134....and impacting it back on is what allowed it to come off during the last expo while chasing the viper down (1.5 laps before overtaking
)
)
remote starter switch, remove spark plugs....and use a ratchet on a cam to turn that extra 3/8 turn that you need to tdc it.......why use the crankpulley bolt??
remote starter switch, remove spark plugs....and use a ratchet on a cam to turn that extra 3/8 turn that you need to tdc it.......why use the crankpulley bolt??
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