Just finished installing my ST rear sway bar on my 90 hatch and it just doesn't look right the way the endlinks connect. I'm first of all not sure if I put the bracket that connects to the shock correctly. Stupid instructions were not clear but I think I positioned it the right way. I'm just not sure I used the right hole (heh) Seems like the endlink bolt is going to rub on the bracket. Will using the other hole be better or will it even change anything? (or did I do something else completely wrong?)






It does make a kick-*** difference though...


[Modified by uncleben, 9:44 PM 3/22/2003]

 

from the pics it looks like the flat that has two holes in it should be where the endlink mounts, and where you currently have the endlink mounted is where the bracket should mount on the shock. you want to get the endlink as close to straight up and down as possible so it doesn't bind.

nate

 

The reason I used it that way, was for the small "edge" on the end of the L-bracket that looks like it was made to keep the bracket from swinging out, because it stops when it hits the shock. Arrg, hard to explain...

so if I switch it, which hole do I use for the endlink?

 

I think the angle of the endlink will change when the car is on the ground.
It seems to me like the holes are switched. Like Nate said.

 

yea, the instructions definately suck. i *think* u have that l bracket on the shock on incorrectly. i think the 2 holes go on the endlink side, not teh shock side...but dont listen to me....i cant even get mine in.
-spenc
btw-do u have any pics of teh other side where teh exhaust passes through? thats where im ahving problems.

 

nope.. I thought so too... looks about the same on the ground

so does anyone HAVE a ST bar on an EF to confirm moving the L-bracket? If I move it, which of the 2 holes to use?

SoloEF: I had a custom exhaust pipe on mine, and it did not fit with the new bar, so I'm taking it back to the exhaust shop to modify slightly



[Modified by uncleben, 10:55 PM 3/22/2003]

 

just what i needed to know. my 2 1/4 doesnt fit either.

 

Doesn't matter how you install the bracket.

The bracket makes more sense the way you have it installed. I would just move the endlink to the other side of the bracket.




Above, is how everyone is telling you how to bolt it together... logically, this is incorrect. The bracket has an edge on it (as seen in the second picture) that prevents the bracket from shifting under hard load. It just makes bolting the end links rather difficult.

 

uncle ben,

you have it installed right. that's how i installed it. the lip is to keep the bracket from rotating and it works better to have the bolt in the hole you are using.

you definitely don't want the endlink touching like that.

what i did was slightly snug up the bolt and jack up the rear susp. on the side i was working on. this simulates the car being on the ground.
then push (may have to push hard) on the bracket or bar to get the bracket rotated away from the endlink. if this is too hard, try shortening the endlink. i think i have the bracket parallel to the flat surfaces on the bar.
this should give you clearance for travel and such. right now it is probably binding and giving you a locked rear or just wearing out the threads.

 

that lip on the bracket is a great idea. too bad it only works in one direction. flip the bracket and your woes will be through.

nate

 

Do a search. Someone posted how to do this a while back and we all agreed that it was the way to go. There were pics in the thread as well.

 

Well holy crap Todd - almost an hour of searching... lol. I found nearly 200 threads with the words "sway bar." Not many with the words "suspension techniques" and honda-tech search won't index the word "st" which a lot of people put in their titles.

So anyway, I found conflicting answers on this, just like in this thread - but I am pretty convinced that I put the bracket on correctly. It just makes sense that that welded "lip" on the bracket is to keep the bracket from shifting in heavy load - because it runs into the shock and prevents it from rotating.

I finally found this thread (from the same person above):
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=283715
Driven: the only thing I'm still unsure about from your comments/pics is which of the 2 holes to use for "stiff" and "soft" on the bracket itself.

I also think I need to shorten the distance between the endlink connectors, and do it while the suspension is preloaded, say with a jack underneath. It's nice that I have NO guide on how much distance between the endlink connectors though.

Either way, I'm going to play with it some more and post my results. There should be a ST sway bar FAQ created


[Modified by uncleben, 3:06 PM 3/23/2003]

 

Well I tried several things and ended up just reversing the bracket. Though I don't think it's made to go that way, it works a lot better. The endlinks do not rub or come close to binding, and the bracket does not shift or move when the suspension is settled.

so I guess I'm satisfied for now, the bar is a really nice addition to my current suspension - feeling the affects just from driving it down some twisties, I'm guessing it will be good for 1-1.5 seconds at the track.

 

driven's look right other than the tab should be against the shock. Yours don't look like they'll work right because the posts that the endlinks attach to are much longer than his. Is this a new bar? or used with new endlinks? From my recollection mine looks like driven's with the link on one side of the bar and the other side of the shock. Actually, that's the way you have it. The problem is the posts that the endlink is attaching to are too long. If it's a new bar I'd call and complain to ST otherwise I bet they've been replaced

 

My sway bar is currently bolted like the thread author's sway bar.

the pictures i provided are to show how NOT to install it.

To tighten up the bar, move the bracket down and/or move the endlink towards the rear of the car. It should be pretty hard to get it to bolt together.