I want to pick up the rear trailing arm bushing set, ~$20. Any good shops which support H-T or racing I should buy these from? I need black.

Also, what are people's opinions on these? I put the ES bushings in the LCAs, but I always felt the rear trailing arm has a lot of play. I have the rear suspension out, it is only 4 more bolts per side to get the trailing arms off. Thanks in advance.

 

$20? The set is $100+ from Nopi....

RJ - has busted trailing arm bushings on his car

 

The kit is over $100, which I have, but it doesn't have trailing arm bushings. Only LCA and sway. Inline 4 lists the trailing arm set, which is only the 2 big bushings, not any for the small arms at $20.97.

 

weird. Nopi lists a Trailing Arm Kit for $100, and a Master bushing kit for the whole car for $200+ (does not include trailing arm bushings)

 

for the ES trailing arm kit, its $20 from summit. the prothane kit is $100 which comes with the new metal sleeves and the inner sleeve

 

Best prices for ES parts are here: http://www.suspension.com/
Better than Nopi or Summit.

 

 

I just installed the final bushing (trailing arm) last weekend. Took me and my friend 7 hours to do the whole job (just 2 bushing). Overall handling do not improve that much. But the turn-in & transition is faster and the car roll less during corner. Absolutly worth the $30 (CAD) I paid for the bushing. But labor cost will kill you. BTW, never trust the instruction come with the bushing. It is impossible to do it right without remove the whole trailing arm. Cleanig the bushing housing and the connector rod took me more than 3 hours.

 

exactly how did it reduce chassis roll??

nate

 

try lightning motorsports.com...........better prices then suspension restoration.....

 

Maybe, but worse customer service. My personal preference is Summit because I KNOW when they say something is in-stock that it'll be at my door in one to two days (with ground shipping). Not to mention, online ordering is a big plus to me.

[edit] to answer one of the questions though... I definitely think you should replace the trailing arm bushings while you're there. I was impressed with the results -- I didn't change them when I first built the car and installed the master set, so I saw a direct before and after effect of the trailing arm installation.

I was tempted to buy the Prothane bushings, because... well, more expensive must be better, right? - . In the end, I decided to keep the $75 for something else.


[Modified by JeffS, 9:25 AM 3/19/2003]

 

let me ask this...

I'm going to be installing my itr 5 lug conversion with Si front susp. components, SRR rear lca's, comptech rear tie/sway bar combo and Tein Type-Flex susp.

What bushing kit(s) should I use *if any at all* for doing this right for my 99 cx hb.

Thanks for your help.

 

I have the energy suspension kit around $125 from summit for and EF. I haven't done the back yet, other than sway bar. I also bought the Mugen trainling arm bushings from king motorsports for around 110 for the two. I hope to do this soon

 

Jeg's carries Energy Suspension productst, too. A little expensive, though with prices hovering around retail.

 

Thanks guys. Ordered from suspension.com!

 

Is the mugen trailing arm bushing the same design as an OEM bushing? Or is it more like the ES bushing? Can you post pics? Thanks.


[Modified by jonsteR, 11:08 AM 3/19/2003]

 

Mugen is supposed to be made from 'hard rubber' versus the ES/Prothane that are made from polyurethane.
You can see pics (more like drawing diagrams) at http://www.kingmotorsports.com

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/categ...ory=Suspension



[Modified by emr88, 11:27 AM 3/19/2003]

 

Bought my Trailing Arm bushings, Sway bar and end link bushings, and LCA bushings from Ultra Performance. They have the pieces available as does Summit. You do not need the full kit for most setups. I paid my shop for 9 hours total time to do them and the brake lines. It really does take a good bit of time to clean up the trailing arm and the pivot pin. To top it off the best way to get things done is with the arm off the car-hello bleed brakes time <G>. The LCA bushings can be done with a bench vise usually-just take your time. Cost of parts was around $70 for the things I am using.
The alternate to the ES is to use Prothane bushings which come mounted in metal shells with the pin molded in. You MUST be sure to locate the pin position in either setup before pressing it into the TA. Note: unless this is an all-out race setup the use of poly bushings at every location is not recommended by a number of people including Specialty Products and Ingalls. The suspension can potentially become too stiff (works at the strip but not road course).

 

jc836, thanks for the good info. Currently I have ES bushing in the LCA. While the rear suspension is out I noticed the TA bushing is looking a little ratty and has a bunch of play. Though my 98 GSR street car had a bunch of play as well. A big rubber bushing will have a good bit of play I guess.

My plan is to run ES bushings in the LCA and TA. The upper arm will get some offset bushings as well for camber. My thought is since I don't have that great of a suspension setup (400f/550r with a 22mm rear sway), a little added stiffness from bushings in the rear would be of some help. The car is dedicated HC H3 race car.

Any advice for installation of the TA bushings? My plan is to remove the arms and take them to my guy for installation. On the GSR it doesn't look like I will have to mess with the brake lines. Just disconnect the hand brake cable, remove caliper braket, then remove TA. When they press the bushing in, re-using the old metal stuff, is there anything to watch out for to make sure all is well and I will be able to re-install without any trouble? Also, I don't need to pre-load the TA like the LCA when tourqing is down do I? Thanks.


[Modified by SPiFF, 2:48 PM 3/19/2003]

 

Thanks, i know the mugen is made of hard rubber but my question was...

Is it like the OEM style (where the bushing is molded on the shaft in the middle)...


Or is it like the ES style (where the shaft can move in and out of the bushing)...


Thanks.

 

the Mugen piece looks just like an OEM piece. Just made of hard rubber rather than a softer poly. Simply press out the OEM bushing and then press the Mugen one in and your done

 

trust me, the prothane/ES stuff is not worth the time (except the motor mounts and shifter bushings)

save yourself the hassle and just go with the OEM stuff off of a higher trim level kar.


also, the mugen stuff is real good but pricey

trust me

 

Jack,

I trust you....but I HATE people who say "trust me". Example: "Trust me - it has superior Transient Response"...


Scott, who has the Mugen stuff...and no complaints...


[Modified by RR98ITR, 2:58 PM 3/19/2003]

 

I trust you....but I HATE people who say "trust me". Example: "Trust me - it has superior Transient Response"...




LOL, hear you scott how about this,

everytime i say "trust me" understand it to mean:

I've personally done the example for which it applies and can provide factual data or attest to it from hands on experience.


better??

 

*Trusts Yack but patiently waits for the data and examples*



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