K i did a OBD1 B18b in my 98 HB. When I start up the car the rpms go up down up down and then I finally stabalized the RPMs at about 1000k. But car will not go over 3k rpms. If I hit the Gas right after I start it it will redline but once I let the gas go down below 3k then it won't go past it again. I am using an OBD1 LS ecu. I have tried my stock ECU and same exact result. I am not getting a CEL but when I start the car the CEL comes on after a little while but when I turn it off the CEL dissappears so there's no way I can check it. Help me out PLS!!! I'm about to give up on this Fu$king car.

 

I read about this somewhere in here recently and they posted a fair amount of replies. I think search will bring it up. Try your post name or something like that. Good luck

 

try switching your map and tps sensors.

 

sounds like the distributor.. check your igniter.

 

I switched both the tps and map and when i do this car dies as soon as I hit the gas so I know I had it in the right place. Could an igniter do this? Cause if I start car with my foot on the Gas then it will redline but once it goes under 3k it wont go above it again.

Is the D series igniter the same as a B? Might give that a try.

 

I am using an OBD1 LS motor but an OBD2 LS dizzy. I know obd2 engines have the Crank Angle Sensor on the oil pump and OBD1 has it on the Dizzy. Does the OBD2 have it in the Dizzy too? I am running an OBD1 LS ecu so it shouldn't look for the one on the oil pump, but I'm wondering if I have to use an OBD1 LS dizzy w/OBD2 Plug? Help me out!!

 

anyone know bout the dizzy?

 

It sounds like the problem i am having right now. when i slam on the gas it takes off but when i release it and slam it again, the RPM is ******* slow as **** going up , but your actually going fast. I just switched out my stock fuel system to AEM and rise the PSI to 50 on the regulator and got a fuel rail, fuel filter. it helped alot, then i am going to put in the MSD SCI ignition tomorrow with the Blaster coil so i don't need the distributor ingiter. i will let you know if this helps and it may be the problem that we are both having.

 

guys i think its the knock sensor on the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness, explains why my car goes into limp mode right after startup. The wire is missing. I followed the DIY for the conversion harness and realized that the Knock sensor was missing in D3 of the obd1 plugs. This should explain it right?

 

top

 

that would throw it into limp, are you getting a cel?

 

Yes I am gettin a CEL but only after the car is started once I shut it off the CEL goes away. Also everyone tells me that the OBD1 LS ecu (p75) doesn't look for a knock sensor so i dont know?


[Modified by civicrtype, 11:09 AM 3/6/2003]

 

**** bro it if you're not going to take the advice that I or others gave you in your DOUBLE POST aboput this topic then I'll just delete both threads.

THE KNOCK SENSOR WOULD NOT KEEP THE MOTOR FROM REVVING OVER 3000RPM.

How many more times would you like me to type that before it sinks in?

You have a problem elsewgere even IF you had some sort of knock sensor problem.

I'm pretty sure that the LS doesn't even have a knock sensor. I've never seen an LS motor with a knock sensor.

 

oh, im not sure if it does or not. does the engine have a knock sensor? find out what that cel is.

 

I can't cause once I shut off the car the CEL goes away and doesnt comeback til after I start the car again (it reappears once the car is started).

 

I already told you in the other thread (now deleted) that you probably have the timing off a few teeth, and/or you have a faulty distributor.

Keep wasting your time with this knock sensor foolishness though if you must.

I was being nice until you basically ignored my advice and persisted with this knock sensor rubbish.

 

Why don't you just check the ECU fault codes?

You can check the codes with the ignition switch still on...

 

I am almost positive it is a problem with the crank angle sensor

 

B18C5-EH2, I did not ignore ur advice if u notice it says up top that everyone says that it doesnt look for a knock sensor so what else could it be. I can't check the code cause it only comes on after the car is already running then when I shut off the CEL disappears and doesn't comeback til the car is running again. It DOESNT stay on. Also I notice that the marks on my camgears (STOCK) looks off by like half to 1 tooth. Would this be enough to cause this? It shouldn't be my dizzy cause I get spark. Just wanna smash the car into a wall already.

 

K I am using an OBD2 LS dizzy with my OBD1 setup, wit a OBD1 p75 which doesn't look for the CKF but does look for the CKP. so I don't need the one by the oil pump then right? Is it possible the CKP sensor in the Dizzy is bad? Could I change that or do I have to change the whole dizzy? Is there a prob. with me using an OBD2 Dizzy w/ OBD1 setup?

 

start the car...turn the engine off, but leave the car on with the key at I or II and check your cel. just take it to autozone, they'll know what to do. you cant really be off by half a tooth. if you're off, fix it now. check your belt and then check your timing again. do that and get that cel.

 

Well I know its not lined up completely must be off by a tooth but I am wondering if that would cause this.

 

does it matter if it causes this? start fixing what you know needs to be fixed, it narrows down your options.

 

well gonna see if its the timing belt or if its the dizzy. What should I look for in the dizzy cause I am gettin spark wit no probs.

 

I would say its a good idea to run an obd1 distributor with your obd 1 ecu. I mean, they are two different things. Or you could take it to a shop and let someone who knows what they are doing fix it for you.