I've been considering a slight engine rebuild lately since i've had low compression #'s, and I've been wanting to run a decent shot of nitrous. I was originally going to just replace pistons/rods/rings/bearings w/ new(er) stock ones, so it would be a fresh(er) motor. After searching on here and preludeonline.com for the topic on the compatibility of H22 and H23 pistons, I've figured that I could use H22 pistons to bump my compression considerably for a ~20hp gain. Here is a discussion of it:
http://www.preludeonline.com/showthr...0&pagenumber=2

The only thing concerning me is that one guy said he knew a guy that swapped in Type-S pistons, they worked, but the motor popped after a short while. I believe i'd rather use USDM h22 pistons, which should put my static CR at about 11.1, but here's what I need to know:

- Would this be a safe combo, after setting back the timing a few degrees, and possibly bumping up the fuel pressure?
- Is SAFC totally necessary?
- Could I still use the stock H23 rods?

Of course, I am going to do a little work on all the components before dropping them back in (cryo treat/nitride/shot peen all of the rotating assembly), so everything should be stout. Satav-SRV, any comments?

 

Well if you're expecting to gain 20hp+ from moving up 1 compression point you'd be wrong.

Anyways, the numbers I posted are pretty accurate, and yeah if you're doing nitrous 11:1 is about as high as I would try without some serious tuning...

The rest of your questions are really nitrous related i.e. if I was running 11:1 compression what do I need to do. I say an S-AFC is a must and some high octane gas.

How much nitrous, shot peened rods are okay I guess, but rods are a weak point for the H-series and nitrous...but that's just what I hear I can't confirm that.

 

"The rest of your questions are really nitrous related "

You're right, but how about for n/a? Would 93 octane w/ an SAFC and tuning be alright for 11.1 CR around town? I expect a bit more work for nitrous, so these questions are mainly for an n/a build. And yeah, the rods are weak, so i figured after throwing one on my last motor, but I've heard you can't run forged rods on stock pistons, so looks like worked-stock rods are about my only option, unless I'm wrong. And I looked at the wrong CR for my stock one, you're right, it's only ~1 pt. bump. I can't look for the H22 rod specs right now since I'm workin on a hot-water heater while typing, but would H22/H23 rods be swappable? for me they are much easier to obtain in good condition.

 

Another thing: I may be able to get some 97 pistons and rods, which use floating wrist pins. This wouldn't really change anything, as compared to using the press-fit ones out of 92-96 H-series motors?


[Modified by LudeyKrus, 1:26 AM 1/30/2003]

 

Last but not least, i 'm checkin online on buying new piston/rod sets, and it looks like i can get a new set for cheap! Anyone have a good site for selling stock engine parts for cheap?

 

you can't put in forged pistons without sleeveing the block.

I know many people that drive around everyday with 11:1 compression, no-vafc and 93+ octane.

Get H22A4 pistons, so floating wrist pin, then get forged rods.

 

wtf are you talking about. you dont have to sleeve the block to put high comp. pistons. thats only if you are trying to get a **** load of power.

anyways anyone one know how much of a compresion difference is when you swap an h22 head into an h23? or is it the same. i cant decide if i want 11:1 or 11.5:1

 

So I CAN use forged rods on stock pistons?! Dang, that would be awesome! Are ya sure?

 

Umm you're the one who doesn't know what you're talking about. THis is no a B-series... H series blocks have FRM and Forged pistons do not work unless you put in iron sleeves.

If you put an H22a head on an H23 block the CR changes based on pistons:

H23 pistons 9.8:1 => 9.3:1
H22 pistons 10.0:1 => 10.4:1
JDM H22a 10.6:1 => 11.1:1
JDM Type-S 11:1 => 11.5:1

 

Stock pistons 97+ can be easily fitted with aftermarket rods...

 

I will have to agree with satan. You are wrong the block must be resleeved or get custom made pistons (that work with FRM).

 

so you can use forged rods on stock pistons, and I'm gonna have to use h23 rods since the rods are different lengths in H22's & H23's. SO...
What's a good CHEAP forged rod for an H23, and where's a good place to get them? I don't wanna spend a lot since i only need one that's a bit stronger than stock. I have a friend that has a shop, so I may see if he can help me out and help w/ the prices for massaging a stock set of rods, since that'll prob. be cheaper.




[Modified by LudeyKrus, 11:06 PM 1/30/2003]

 

I also see no reason to go w/ the .25 over pistons, so is there a difference in using Type "A" and Type "B" pistons when swapping them in? I'd prob. say to go w/ the type "A", since it's slightly bigger, right?

 

Only the high end rods are made. Crower are your best bet, but they don't make them in the econo billet series, just the billet.

Make sure your H22a pistons are 97+ floating

 

Sry, didn't get that last post in time...so I can use floating wrist pin pistons straight up, no machining required? (i.e.- press fit rods are compatible w/ floating wrist pin pistons?)

And check the bearings:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NKSHAFT-PISTON
What's w/ all the diff. color rod bearings? which ones would i need?


[Modified by LudeyKrus, 11:27 PM 1/30/2003]


[Modified by LudeyKrus, 11:27 PM 1/30/2003]

 

What are you talking about? All forged rods are for floating wrist pins

 

I'm talking about floating pin pistons on H23 rods, i know all forged are for floating pins.

 

I don't get it....so you're not getting aftermarket rods now?

For stock rods on a floating pin design you need to modify the rod. Like I used stock H23 rods with Arias forged pistons with modified pins

 

It's all a matter of money! Right now I'm seeing what my options are; forged rods would be great, but working-over a set of stockers would be cheaper; I'm debating if the extra strength of forged rods would justify the extra money; my setup won't be pushing too much more power over stock.

 

Are you planning to runn nitrous on this engine or is it going to stay NA? If you are going to stay NA, stick with the stock rods.

 

For a while it will be n/a; i MAY end up throwing my kit on there for an occasional small shot (50, at most), so i'm not too worried about using stock rods. Only thing is getting pistons that'll fit a H23 rod; I have the opportunity to buy some 97 h22 rods, but they have the floating wrist pin, and I want as little work as possible. Has anyone ever machined a h23 rod to take a floating wrist pin? What's the procedure?

 

I don't know the procedure but it's not hard...

Why don't you just get H22A1 pistons then....then its easy

 

I've been looking for them; noone has a "spare" set they wanna let go; got some h22a4's available, though. Through majestic honda parts, when looking at prices, they're ~41 bux apiece, or for a set?

here ya go, is emissions/tran. kl5mt or ka5mt?:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NKSHAFT-PISTON

 

I have several used sets of H22a pistons (JDM). If you want, Make an offer.

 

How many miles are on them? I'm not exactly sure what the going price is for a set