Hi All,

I am probably going to pick up a '95 gsr tonight and I was wondering if there were any year/model/trim level problems peculiar to these cars. It is in really good shape, and the guy has all of the service records, so I am not TOO woried about it, I just want to make sure that this isn't like a bad year for them or something lame like that. I am trading up from my poor little '89 CRX dx. I love the little car, but she's getting on in years (and miles), and I want a back seat. Here are the specifics:

95 gsr
98,xxx miles
black
5 spd
leather
sunroof
pioneer deck
clifford alarm

Thanks much for the help!

Dan

 

Well typical problems in G3 Tegs are: leaky radiator, sometimes 2nd gear is a bit sticky, water in tail lights...that all I can think of now. Maybe a good idea to have a compression/leakdown test on the engine but probably not going to be an issure since the B18C is pretty much bullet proof.

I guess the tegs back set is more than a CRX but it's not much more. Enjoy the car.

 

Thanks! Thats kinda what I figured. The back seat is more to apease my girlfriend than anything else.

Thanks,
Dan

P.S. I like your avatar Eva01. Misato & Pen Pen hang from the rearview of my car.

 

A-pipe rattle. I don't think there's been any one person on this board taht hasn't complained about this problem.

 

NP

 

definitely make sure there are no grinds in the tranny from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th, it means the synchros are going out and its a pretty common problem, also get up under the dash and check the clutch master cylinder for any leaks because thats another real common issue.

 

Awesome! Thanks much for the advice!

Dan

 

this is only sort-of off-topic... my 2nd gear is a LITTLE sticky.. not much. Worry about it? And @ what rpm does the A-pipe rattle occur, because I'm pretty sure that that's what I'm hearing @ about 3200 rpm or so. Also, I'm getting a very scratchy (almost metal on metal) or vibrating sound around the time my secondaries open. But I don't think it's anything internal, because the car runs like a champ and pulls hard up top. Any ideas? Thanks.

PS. Sorry to steal your topic, but this seemed like a pretty good place to ask.

 

Don't be suprised if you hear a bit of rattling around the 3k rpm area, a lot of gsrs seem to get the infamous a/b pipe rattle.

 

Thankfully, that's one common problem my '95 GSR has never had.

By the way, IMO, the '95 is the best year for the Integra: still OBD-I, second model year (time enough to iron-out any bugs) = can't go wrong.

The typical stuff that the current owner has either already faced or you would face down the road would include:
- leaky clutch master cylinder (replace the slave cylinder at the same time, if this comes up)
- leaking radiator (due to the crimp seam between the plastic end-tanks and aluminum core)
- worn clutch (either due to natural wear or broken springs, common in the OEM clutch)
- worn brake master cylinder (spongy, allowing pedal to go all the way to the floor)
- weak or broken motor mounts (the rubber in especially the lower mounts becomes cracked with age)
- many people have trouble with water leaking into the spare tire well following rain
- transmission grind at high rpm shifting

That's about all I can think of, for now. Having had my '95 for almost its entire life (bought it in April of '96 w/ 6k mi.), I've encountered most all the common maintainence problems. I've also done all the repair work myself, so feel free to ask questions. In the grand scheme, all these problems are minor (except maybe the tansmission grind, as a replacement may cost $500 - 1,000, depending). Other brands have far worse problems at this age, however (piston rings/smoking, all-out engince failure, destroyed tranny internals, etc.).

Good luck with the new acquisition!


[Modified by ndustryalGSR, 3:55 PM 1/8/2003]


[Modified by ndustryalGSR, 5:34 PM 1/8/2003]

 

my second gear is sometimes sticky. if im gunning it up hill, I have to be extra careful when shifting from 1-2 or else....GRRRRRRIIIIIIIIINNNNNNNNNNNNNND. i do tend to shift fast and release my foot off the clutch quickly. just keep that in mind. i also have that infamous rattle. once my header is bought, i should be ok.

 

How much are you paying for it?

 

it will probably need a new radiator soon.

the timing belt should have been done at 90k, along with valve adjustment, etc.

the pipe rattling can be solved with a hose clamp (usually).

it will probably consume some oil, just make sure not too much (leakdown/compression test).

grinding tranny is a good one to check.

it will need a new clutch sometime soon.

 

Compression test is important...

Just for reference, I drive a 95 GS-R w/105k miles on it. I did a compression test last week......220-225 across the board. Have fun!

 

I was wondering what the hell that sound was at 3.2k rpm thanks guys


My GSR has had or has most of the problems you listed it drives me crazy but still a good car for the cash

 

that car your looking at almost sounds like mine (95 GSR, blk, 5 spd, leather, mine has a lil more miles, sunroof, etc.. ) except the Pioneer deck..

since the car has all service records it should be ok... I don't think its a bad year.. I haven't had many major problems w/ my car...

anyway I've had my car all its life.. bought it brand new off the dealer lot w/ 7 miles on the clock.. did pretty much all the repairs and maintenance (and performance part installs) myself....hmm some of the items I'm going to list are wear/maintenance items but the problems/costs I've encountered were:

hatch rattle (adjusted those rubber stoppers - $0)

various panel rattles (haven't fixed them all yet )

A-pipe rattle (replaced w/ aftermarket header $400 (part only))

dead passenger power door lock motor/solenoid (replaced w/ new solenoid.. $70 from dealer..part only + about an hour or so of my labor)...

master cyl replacement ($200 + 1.5 or so hrs of my own labor)

oil on cam/valve cover (replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plug donut gaskets.. )

cracked side bolsters on leather seating... I was going to replace these.. but then the car got broken into and some dumb *** STOLE the broken/cracked leather seating... so I replaced it w/ some new 98+ leather seats w/ the additional ***** on the side for adjusting the bottom part of the seat

warped rotors - this was probably due to a tire shop impacting the lug nuts on... I replaced the stock rotors w/ Brembo blanks... it was like $28/ea + $10 ship from http://www.collettimotorsports.com .... took me about an hour to put in the front rotors and pads..

worn brake pads - I replaced these w/ Hawk HP+s.. it was around $100 I forget.....got it from Collettimotorsports.com also.. did the job w/ the rotors. so same labor as above..

worn clutch - replaced w/ an ACT unit... cost about $400.. had a buddy help me out.. took a saturday afternoon into evening...

slow sunroof - opened it, cleaned the tracks/rails w/ WD-40 ($3/can but most likely you have this around the garage).. then wiped it all up w/ a rag and then used white lithium grease ($<5/tub) to lube up the clean track/rails.. started motor so I didn't drain the batt and opened n closed it like 10X..

slow power windows - cleaned weatherstripping/black rubber.. then applied armor all to it.. now their fast again..

bulb on Climate control out - I'll get to this someday.. it recently went out.. should be a sub $10 fix...

all the other costs incurred was either maintenance items (oil changes, tranny, coolant, brake flush/changes, valve adjusts, etc...)

OR my own desire to upgrade to performance parts... this car has been reliable as hell and I'm pretty religious on maintenance so I don't forecast many problems w/ it in the future...

go pick up a helms manual http://www.helminc.com for your new car and you should be able to work on whatever goes wrong yourself and save some money vs taking it to the stealer... err dealer..

other things to check into are if theres water int he cabin or hatch, oily substance on the floor area/leaky master cyl, leaky radiator, spongy brakes/master cyl, check that the a/c blows cold, and turn the wheel to hear that the power steering pump doesn't sound funky, etc.. just check the whole car out but it should be OK.. mine has beeen very reliable..


[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 11:22 PM 1/8/2003]

 

oh yeah and when u reach 100,xxx miles on ur odometer, ur motor blows up. j/k

 

I can't believe you guys forgot to mention the window rattling when it's about 1/3 open.