Any interest: CF DC2 rear hatch + lexan comob?
Does anyone currently make one of these? I know some JDM tuners make fiberglass rear.
A buddy of mine has started a CF company, and i suggested this as a possible product, including selling it with lexan perhaps.
Thoughts?
A buddy of mine has started a CF company, and i suggested this as a possible product, including selling it with lexan perhaps.
Thoughts?
.....I have been searching for an oem fit and finish CF hatch for the dc2 for a long time now. Almost gave up and resorted to fiberglass.
If you are SERIOUS about persuing this avenue, please be aware that the hinges and oem latch are going to be some issues to address. Not to mention the seals so that it doesn't leak water... I'd also recommend using the FAL replacement instead of real lexan. They look oem, but still shave some weight.
I estimated a 60lb+ savings on replacing the rear hatch with CF and FAL...
Plus, no rear wiper.
If you are SERIOUS about persuing this avenue, please be aware that the hinges and oem latch are going to be some issues to address. Not to mention the seals so that it doesn't leak water... I'd also recommend using the FAL replacement instead of real lexan. They look oem, but still shave some weight.
I estimated a 60lb+ savings on replacing the rear hatch with CF and FAL...
Plus, no rear wiper.
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[QUOTEI estimated a 60lb+ savings on replacing the rear hatch with CF and FAL... [/QUOTE]
It's less than that...and don't ask how I know. The window is less than a 10lb difference, and the hatch isn't all that heavy.
Austin
It's less than that...and don't ask how I know. The window is less than a 10lb difference, and the hatch isn't all that heavy.
Austin
I'd also recommend using the FAL replacement instead of real lexan. They look oem, but still shave some weight.
FAL is REAL lexan, or is supposed to be.
What I meant by my statement is that the FAL replacement, while it may be real lexan, isn't as thin as the sort that ppl use in "race" cars... you don't need rivets to hold the FAL oem replacement window in, but you do need it on the "race" lexan.
As far as the J's racing hatch - I liked the quality of their fiberglass from what I've seen, but it isn't as BLING as CF and would require painting (which will drive up the cost a little)... I had actually been leaning in this direction, but a local buddy had offered to copy my oem hatch for a fiberglass mold and make me a frp one... He said he hasn't worked with c/f before, so it would take a couple attempts, but sounds intriguing. Maybe one of these days we'll get around to making it.
In the meantime, a CF hatch mfr would make lots of $ if done right... but remember that shipping is going to be a BITCH.
[Modified by Black R, 2:59 AM 1/9/2003]
I wonder if (when?) the price of CF hoods will come down. The price of a decent hood shipped is still in the high $3xx-$4xx+ range. Surely there is a discount on bulk orders of fabric.
A friend has a fiberglass a (J's Racing) OEM look hatch with a FAL window on his integra. He said you have to adapt and custom do the opening mechanism with 98+integras since they use power hatch switches. Also when swapping to a fiberglass or non OEM hatch you have to cut all your old wires that were in your old hatch because their is nowhere for the wires to go with the new hatch since the new hatch doesn't use any power, etc... on it.
As for weight savings I weighted a spare type R hatch I have from a friends salvaged type R. The weight savings is 21.3lbs!!!!!! Talk about not worth it.
My friend also told me that with the fiberglass hatch you cannot use the complete weather stripping with it because the hatch will not close good, so he had to cut his stock weather stripping, yet now it leaks badly when wet. He tried using that weather stripping from home depot, etc... but it didn't work so he's left with it leaking.
Oh yeah you cannot use the shocks on the hatch either because the pressure the shocks put on the hatch is to great for fiberglass or carbon materials and will end cracking or ripping the hatch.
I believe he's just going to sell the hatch and go with a MB rear hatch.
As for weight savings I weighted a spare type R hatch I have from a friends salvaged type R. The weight savings is 21.3lbs!!!!!! Talk about not worth it.
My friend also told me that with the fiberglass hatch you cannot use the complete weather stripping with it because the hatch will not close good, so he had to cut his stock weather stripping, yet now it leaks badly when wet. He tried using that weather stripping from home depot, etc... but it didn't work so he's left with it leaking.
Oh yeah you cannot use the shocks on the hatch either because the pressure the shocks put on the hatch is to great for fiberglass or carbon materials and will end cracking or ripping the hatch.
I believe he's just going to sell the hatch and go with a MB rear hatch.
Anything that will make the car lighter is important. There is a market for this in Japan and europe but to see if it would sell in America is a gamble. Try making pink carbon wheel hubs-the show guys love buying crap.
lol, you guys are nuts... sounds like a bitch to save a few pounds... leaking hatch? hundreds, if not more in $$$? no thanks, hehe
you guys should custom a full front dash out of CF
. that would look pretty cool.
expensive i bet but cool nontheless
. that would look pretty cool.
expensive i bet but cool nontheless
Austin
who make sthe dash, and can you give me a link?
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