mpfi swap help, i have bad luck or something!!
Ok, i need help! several things seem to be wrong here but i dunno! We got everything hooked up. we started it 3 times so far. First time it reved high then low, high then low, then POP... something happene. Started it again, same thing, but eventually died on its own. Since then it never started cause the fuel pump wouldnt come on. I thought it was the mian relay, but turns out its a blown ECU fuse. Grrr!! so whats going on? anyone might know?
Also, when i turn the ignition to "ON" then shut the it off and take the key out, the two red dash light symbols seem to stay light up.
i thought this was easy! =P making me fustrated now. anyone have a vacuum line diagram?
Also, when i turn the ignition to "ON" then shut the it off and take the key out, the two red dash light symbols seem to stay light up.
i thought this was easy! =P making me fustrated now. anyone have a vacuum line diagram?
First time it reved high then low, high then low
anyone have a vacuum line diagram?
check the egr valve for damage
Not all came with an EGR, right?? I dun think my car has it
Not all came with an EGR, right?? I dun think my car has it
sorry, its a 90 civic dx 1.5
and the way the car sounds, its like it revs to 5000 or something like that! I know i cant get one screw on the intake manafold that bolts to the head, could that be why?
about the ECU, i got a SI ecu and a Teg ecu, i've been using the SI ecu lately just incase
[Modified by 90CivicDx, 12:50 PM 1/7/2003]
[Modified by 90CivicDx, 12:53 PM 1/7/2003]
and the way the car sounds, its like it revs to 5000 or something like that! I know i cant get one screw on the intake manafold that bolts to the head, could that be why?
about the ECU, i got a SI ecu and a Teg ecu, i've been using the SI ecu lately just incase
[Modified by 90CivicDx, 12:50 PM 1/7/2003]
[Modified by 90CivicDx, 12:53 PM 1/7/2003]
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I know i cant get one screw on the intake manafold that bolts to the head, could that be why?
Pull the Intake manifold back off, inspect the gasket condition, find out why that bolt won't go in, and pray that you didn't blow the engine.
Was there white smoke comming out of the exhaust? that would be a sign of water in cylinder #4... not good. if there was no smoke, you may be alright.
ok thanks, but theres 3 bolts on top and 3 on the bottom. the bottom middle bolt wont go on cause i cant reach to get it on. The gasket is brand new, and there is white smoke that comes out.
the TB i got was from a 92-95 si, but my friend seems to have it connected up alright. will that make a difference?? gawd damn this is starting to be a pain in the ***! i feel like just selling the car! lol
the TB i got was from a 92-95 si, but my friend seems to have it connected up alright. will that make a difference?? gawd damn this is starting to be a pain in the ***! i feel like just selling the car! lol
ur gonna need to get the bolt on there and fix the vacume leak never do somehting helf way get the bolt on torque everything down and should fix the problem
like i have said before...
my MPFI swap has gave me problems quiet a few times... once it started sputeering and smoking white smoke( just like a blown head gasket) i even swaped a new head gasket and still there....
anyways i found that the #1 spark plug was wet in gas... dry it and put it back in.. also take the plugs off all inyectors and touch both lil legs on the inyector with a piece of metal so u can drainall the resistance left on the inj coil....make sur eu got the ecu and hazard fuse off while u do this... let the pressure of the fuel rail go .. loosen that bolt.... then put back all togheter....
the same symptoms have happened to me about 7 timers... and seems to get fixed with this procedure... IMO i am getting too much current into a injector causing it to stay open and flood my spark plug. by then it wont ignite and u running rich.. thats why one of my reasons its to get the autometer A/F gauge... o i know when its the gas problem and why its running rich...
also make sure u got all the wiring right, and the injector resistor in proper place....
my MPFI swap has gave me problems quiet a few times... once it started sputeering and smoking white smoke( just like a blown head gasket) i even swaped a new head gasket and still there....
anyways i found that the #1 spark plug was wet in gas... dry it and put it back in.. also take the plugs off all inyectors and touch both lil legs on the inyector with a piece of metal so u can drainall the resistance left on the inj coil....make sur eu got the ecu and hazard fuse off while u do this... let the pressure of the fuel rail go .. loosen that bolt.... then put back all togheter....
the same symptoms have happened to me about 7 timers... and seems to get fixed with this procedure... IMO i am getting too much current into a injector causing it to stay open and flood my spark plug. by then it wont ignite and u running rich.. thats why one of my reasons its to get the autometer A/F gauge... o i know when its the gas problem and why its running rich...
also make sure u got all the wiring right, and the injector resistor in proper place....
oh cool! well i am at work, i'll tighten everything, wire it back up, do what you said and check the spark plugs. I'll find out what happens then =P
how much do you think my engine could go for =P i can get a sohc vtec at a good price, 500 can. the engine i have now has 250 000 km, the TB i just bought for 200 form xtrmemotorsport (bored out)...any suggestions? maybe it be better to switch it? lol
how much do you think my engine could go for =P i can get a sohc vtec at a good price, 500 can. the engine i have now has 250 000 km, the TB i just bought for 200 form xtrmemotorsport (bored out)...any suggestions? maybe it be better to switch it? lol
i had the same problem on my first civ when i was converting it to mpfi. at first i got the EACV plug and the IAT plug mixed up so i corrected it then when i went to start it up, the rpms went straight to almost 5000 i freaked out so i shut it off right away. i couldn't figure out what was wrong so i just gave up and went back to dpfi
i was using a 87 teg TB though so i think that maybe the culprit cuz i had everything tightened down evenly, new int manifold gasket, new TB gasket so yeah...is the ECU throwing any codes ???
i was using a 87 teg TB though so i think that maybe the culprit cuz i had everything tightened down evenly, new int manifold gasket, new TB gasket so yeah...is the ECU throwing any codes ???
My swap went fine (2000 DX head on a '90 STD and then using '89 Si ECU and everyhting else) and started on the first try, it is just a year later that everything is fugging up .......
I used the Honda manual for the car to do the Vacuum lines .........
I used the Honda manual for the car to do the Vacuum lines .........
see my TB is different then the older SI's but it should still work the same i think? its form a 92 SI.
anyways got one more question.
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Pins b10 and b12 are suppose to be empty. what if i have one in b12? do i put two wires into b12? or just cut it and leave it not connected?
anyways got one more question.
\
Pins b10 and b12 are suppose to be empty. what if i have one in b12? do i put two wires into b12? or just cut it and leave it not connected?
Pins B10 and B12 are for for cam position sensor. Only one wire willl go to each pin. On the SOHC Mpfi i beleive they go to the distributer.
ok so all my wiring seems ok then! just the whole blowing ecu fuse and lights in dash staying on and high rev (vacuum leak) is lef tto fix! i hope its well worth this trouble
nope, not running. it did 2 out of 3 times we ran it and the first time i shut it off, the second time it died itself... third, well started then i shut it off (thats when i blew the ecu fuse somehow)
it probably can start, but i wanna get everything bolted down nice and tight to specs first
it probably can start, but i wanna get everything bolted down nice and tight to specs first
You need to use the DX harness any way. There are 3 plugs you will not use. 2 of them are for your fuel injectors which you cut off. The other one you can leave hanging there.
make sure you have all of your wire harness gong to the right spots. I know you may have to extend some of the wires. Let me know how it comes along.
i had code 20 and the one for thr TPS (DIDNT hvae the tps on and the code 20 went away when i connected the teg ecu)
I really hope you answer yes to all 3 of these questions.


