Disclaimer: This is not my car or my setup, just trying to help someone. Don't shoot the messenger.

Ok.. got a few questions, and im not sure how related they are either so I'll just shoot. First off this isn't my car, trying to help out a friend and I only know so much and don't pretend to know the rest.

Setup is an LS/VTEC, .030 off the head and .025 off the block. Also b00sted, (turbo) pushing around 7-8lbs right now trying to help get it tuned better. 440's, and running GSR cams. ECU is an 00 Civic Si and using the greddy blue box, VAFC and MSD ignition and also the BTM Ignition timing retard(er) module... Not sure what else you might have questions about the setup, so if you need to know another detail please ask and I'll try to remember waht ur asking.

Anyway.. first question is about cam degree I guess. After removing that much material off, should the cam gears be set advanced/retarded to try and make up for the difference?

Also, its experiencing pretty bad detonation while the car is set at 16 degrees base ignition timing. The cam gears I believe are set at +8,+8 as that was recommended to them. I believe fuel pressure is set to around 42psi at idle (hose pinched)...

Ok - so any ideas or suggestions. I'd appreciate any creative help.

 

.

 

ok for every .012 you take off the head, you have retarded timing 1 degree. so you are looking at about -2.5 degrees if you just did the head, i dont know what the would do to the material on the block. i guess you would add another 2 degrees retardation for that as well.

who told you to set both cams at +8, i think you would only do that to make sure you have a good piston to valve clearance, unless the dyno showed you thats the best setting for your cams.

next back timing down to about 11 degrees and then work your way back up to around stock. please use a timing gun or light for accuracy as well.

good luck


[Modified by CART fan, 4:53 PM 12/22/2002]


[Modified by CART fan, 4:54 PM 12/22/2002]

 

Well right now its set at ~8 degrees... used a timing light, thats no biggie. I'll doublecheck the cam settings too.. Should the cams be retarded or advanced?

 

jsut throwing it out there, but i noticed he's running 440's, VAFC, and the greddy blue box...why don't you just run VAFC hack?

 

I believe they tried it and it didnt work well. Do you have any information on this, as I'm not very familiar with it.

 

here are your mistakes ...

1) you need a boost sensitive reg to increase pressure as you boost
2) 16 deg timing is too much for boost, especialled after taking off 50 thous between the block and the head
3) you need to advance both cam gears at least 5 degrees .. you did 8 already ... leave the intake at +8 and set the exh side to +5
4) which fuel pump ? 440 is pretty big and you need fuel when she starts boosting ...
5) what octane fuel ? basically you have around 11.5:1 compression on 7psi boost ... you need at least 116 octane fuel


greg

 

1. dont understand what you mean. can you explain again, im sorry that i dont understand.
2. Ok.. makes sense, but I was just curious. Right now like I said its around 8 degrees.
3. will make that suggestion.
4. walbro 255
5. 94 octane. its running forged pistons and rods, compression on the pistons was 9:1. I believe after removing the material and the port/polish, they figured compression to be right around 9.4ish:1


[Modified by sneakychaos, 12:08 AM 12/24/2002]

 

Err... u talkin bout a FPR? Sorry... too early in the morning. Like an FMU or the like? The greddy blue box was "supposed" to act like one... although who knows. AEM FPR is being used right now.

 

hello, any boost sensitive fuel regulator is one that increases fuel pressure when it reads +boost pressure. The b&m and AEM, nd Stillen, and Paxton and Aeromotive are not boost press regs, so they dont increase fuel pressure when they see boost, the FMU is ...

if you have an engine management that has a map sensor which reads boost and therefore plots fuel maps based on boost loads then you use the FPR(fuel pres riser) like those mentioned above, paxton, aeromotive, etc ... so that you dont add more fuel than the engine managment is controlling (ineffective and harder to tune).... maybe your greddy blue box does that already I'm not sure ...


Greg

 

damn d00d.. no need to make me sound like an ***. FPR as i meant it was fuel pressure regulator. if its the same thing as a fuel pressure riser, then my fault. Just trying to figure this **** out to help a friend... never said i was a genius.

Anyway, i believe the greddy blue box is what does that already. if you remove the GBB, you'd need some sort of FMU + somethin like the missing link for the map sensor. as it stands now, that is not needed with the blue box. (Hence why its sold as a kit,... so theoretically it makes sense.)

 

??? not sure why you're getting offended, I was trying to explain the difference between the two ... and help also

 

Not offended... thought we were thinking of two different things using the same three letters FPR.. or maybe they are the same?. Any help is good help.. just trying to understand thats all. Sorry.