If I get a '97 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab(V6, 5000lb tow rating) as a tow vehicle what would be the positives and negatives? What would I need to buy for this car besides a tow hitch ? Do manual tranny's need tranny coolers? Get a beefier clutch?

My specs:
1. It will tow a 2500 or 2100 lb car with about 200lbs of extra stuff + trailer (how much does a trailer weigh - open steel deck?) I guess this will max out at about 4000lbs?
2. It will tow about 5 times a year long distance (NYC to VIR, NYC to Watkins, etc.) and maybe 15 times a year locally with no hills.
3. It will be used as a daily driver/hangout car (only about 200 miles/week) in NYC so parking is somewhat of an issue when hanging out downtown.
4. Need reliability so I get kinda of nervous getting an early to mid-90's domestic. (if I am wrong here, please tell me. I have only owned Honda's and a Miata)

Thanks any help is greatly appreciated.

 

You should be fine with an open trailer.....you will be gettin close to the trucks towing limit with a race car/trailer/spare tires/tools ect. If money isn't an issue I would look into an aluminium trailer. I know they are expensive but it will weigh a lot less. The only other thing you will need besides a tow hitch is a brake controller for trailer brakes. If you don't get a trailer with brakes the trailer will end up pushing you real bad when trying to stop and could cause you some big problems. Toyota trucks are bulletproof, strong motors and trans. Truck should have no problems what so ever. I use a Tundra and tow a 24ft enclosed trailer packed to the hilt with no problems and I am way over my towing limit......also helps to have a 5 year powertrain warranty.

 

just so you know the domestic trucks will run into the ground.
im getting a mid 90's grand cherokee for my tow vheicle, it has the same engine as the ram 1500 v8's.
just know this, you need to have it serviced at the scheduled times.

 

David:

I've done many miles towing with a pair of Ford Rangers. The first one I had for 150,000 miles, the second for 80,000. Both 2wd V6 5-speeds. No mechanical issues with either. No clutch replacements or tranny problems - nada-zippo. This was when I did 30+ events a year, towing to most of them. I probably put 10,000 miles a year for 7 or 8 years pulling a 3500-4000lb open trailer with these trucks, including 6-8 pulls annually halfway across the country and back chasing Pro Solo fame and fortune. Now, I got the Exploder, because we needed a real back seat, and then I got the motorhome, because I wanted a truck that would eventually pull a decent sized enclosed trailer, and get all the comforts of home too.

As for a Toyoter, no problem, except I would make sure the year you're interested in has the 190 hp 4-cam V6, especially with 4wd, as the SOHC won't have enough juice. Also, in any compact truck I'd recommend staying away from automatics. Even with installing a big aftermarket tranny cooler, they will still have problems. The autos in the compacts are too light duty. Manual trannys don't need coolers, with the worst repair out there replaceing the clutch at some point. I would recommend a trailer with brakes, which if electric will require a brake controller in the truck, as well as a weight distributing hitch, with spring bars to leverage the trailer tongue against the hitch. A brake controller and the hitch bits and pieces will cost around $500, plus installation if you pay someone to do it. Not all difficult, just typical racer PITA stuff.

If you asked me what truck to get, I'd rate them as:

1. Ford
2. Toyota
3. Dodge or Jeep

and everything else way back, with Chevy/GMC DFL.

 

1. Make sure it has the towing package and a transmission cooler.
2. If it's constantly hunting between overdrive and 3rd, leave it in 3rd to save the transmission.
3. Do what James said and get a brake controller.

Don't cheap out on this. The tow vehicle is supposed to be the reliable vehicle in case the track car breaks. Trust me - having the tow vehicle break down in the middle of nowhere SUCKS. It's happened to me once (alternator) and to r2x once (fuel pump). BTW, we both have Chevys

 

***Ditto on the brakes for the trailer, but get them on BOTH axles.
***Also ditto on the *must have* load equalizer hitch ( talk to a competent hitch installer...they'll explain )
*** Use synthetic gear lube for BOTH trans and diff...Redline can advise you what is best ( they have a tollfree # ). Change every 24 mos. or 30k miles.
*** After initial start, think of the clutch as an on/off switch...on it and off it quickly with nooo slipping
***use synthetic oil in your engine***
***a solid 14 - 16 foot steel trailer may weigh 1200 - 1500 pounds. Get aluminum if you can afford it. Will last forever. Call this guy: good trailers, fair prices:http://hometown.aol.com/aluminumtrailer/ .....email = Aluminumtrailer@aol.com. Matter of fact, go to eBay and search "aluminum trailer' there are some good ones on there now.
wildman

 

Everyone,

Thanks so much !!!!

 

Are the manuals capable of towing that much weight? According to Ford literature, the manual tranny reduces tow capacity significantly over the slushbox (as does 4x4).

Also, anybody have experience with 4Runners? Could be my next truck (whenever the copcar kicks it for good).


[Modified by Crack Monkey, 9:16 PM 12/3/2002]

 

I'm a bit confused over whether auto or manual is better. When I was looking at the Pathfinder the manual has a 3500 pound capacity and the auto is good for 5000. Same with the Xterra. When I got my 4Runner I figured the auto would be the better choice, but I'm not so sure anymore. Not that it's bad or anything...

The auto just feels... slushy I guess. It would be a lot more comforting if the shifts were a little smoother, and sometimes it does hunt a bit between 3rd and OD. I worry about the tranny, but I just like worrying. A cooler is #1 on my list of things to do before the spring.

Another issue is the rear of the 4Skinner really sinks down under weight. I don't think it's a huge deal. For some reason it actually seems more stable with lots of weight on the back. You're also not supposed to use it with a weight distributing hitch, but I dunno about that.

It's probably not the best tow vehicle out there, but it's plenty competent for the job. It cruises nicely at 120ish km/h (75 mph?). As a daily driver it's not too bad either. A bit rough riding, almost like the springs are a little stiff, which doesn't make much sense with all the sag when the trailer is on. Strange. It's decent on gas, cruises nicely at 140 km/h (I dunno, like 85 mph?), and it's damn solid being a Toyota. Lots of room for storage... and it completely kicks *** as a snow vehicle as long as you have good snow tires.

Everything is a tradeoff. The 4Skinner is a very good tradeoff between daily practicality and weekend utility. I might have looked into getting a V8 Tundra if I were to do it over again, but I think this was the best choice. A newer Pathfinder with the 240 horse engine would be very kick ***. Another couple choices are the older Pathfinder and the Xterra. I think those would be very similar, but I prefer the 4Skinner over the Pathfinder because of the body on frame design. The hitch mounts right on to the frame. Very solid. The Xterra is body on frame too.

So yeah, the 4Skinner is cool.

 

Just about all manufacturers de-rate manual trannys for towing because 99% of the shmoes out really don't know how to use a clutch. Think of all the Maw and Paw Kettles out there RV'ing attempting to drive their rolling condo's in the slow lane. Add in the additional complication of a clutch manually shifting for each gear, and you'd have alot of burned cookies. And upset grannies and gramps looking for warranty repairs.

On my 2wd 88 Ranger, with a 2.9, 5 speed, and 3.45 rear, Ford rated it at 1700 lbs. If I had an auto, it would have been like 4000. I also never touched the driveline in the 150k miles I had it, clutch included. I don't think that would have been the case if it had been a slushbox. The 95 with a 4.0, 3.55, and a stick was similar. Now, I'm stuck with autos in both the tow vehicles, and after having towed for 10 years with a manual, and now 4 with the auto, I still do prefer to shift myself. No worries about tranny cooling either.

Never let an auto hunt between 3 and 4. Also, never left the torque converter unlock while still in 4th. If it is doing it lock-out the top overdirve gear and let it stay lower. You'll get much longer life out of the tranny. On both of mine I keep 4th locked-out, and manually shift it to 4th only when at cruising speed usually above 55. I usually manually drop it to 3rd on hills too. Ford makes this easy do do with a button on the column shifter of their electronically controlled autos.

 

To help out... Why some autos GVWR is higher than the manual transmission you ask? This is true on some of the newer vehicles. Just really need to take a look at the GVCR (no, don't look at the towing weight rating). Even looking at some of the bigger light trucks (i.e. Chevy 3500, Dodge 3500, Ford F350), they have the weight rating on the autos higher (by 200 lbs but still, except for the H.O.). Now, will the longevity/life expectancy of the auto outlast the manual? Ah...NO.

If you are ONLY going to be pulling 3500 to 4000 lbs and the weight of the truck is the same (not packed up with everything), then you should not have a problem. When you start having problems is when a lot of hills/mountains come into effect in the summer time. The heat rises in the transmission and not even the oil cooler can keep it cool. This is what kills the autos...well that and the bands from going to the next gear up hill...just keep it out of OD if the tranny is hunting gears (like Shultz said). Also look at the gearing and the final gear (i.e. 3.54, 3.78, 4.10), the higher the better for towing. Think Toyota even has a 4.40 on the 4Runner V6 4x4 auto. Happy towing.... Now I'm guessing towing up to 21,000 lbs through the mountains w/ high end $ horses...I'm afraid a Toyota Tacoma 4 cyl may not be able to handle it, but a 1 ton truck (manual tranny) w/ 470hp, 960ft/lbs (at wheels)...like a charm... Also, I'm sure it would be fun to drag race ricers, but I wouldn't know that.

 

Toyota Tacoma's tow rating is based on engine configuration, not on auto vs. manual transmission choices. They rate the 2.4 and 2.7 liter I4's at 3,500lbs and the 3.4L V6 at 5,000lbs. The Tundra is rated at 7,000 lbs. I'll tell you this, it was kinda fun using my Tacoma for pulling out the bushes in front of our house.... Put her in second, give the chain some slack, then accelerate like crazy - let off clutch and accelerator right at impact.... Only concern I have with towing in the Tacoma is it's light weight - my '98 Extenden cab weighs around 2,800 lbs... So I'm pretty much set on getting a light aluminum trailer to keep everything right around truck weight...so the integra really needs to be built up to under 2,000 lbs.

Heh..a Tacoma towing 21,000 lbs..lol. That would mean a tongue weight of around 2,100 lbs - that Tacoma would look like its competing in tractor pulls with its front end high in the air... lol

The 2.4L I4 does have some pep though...even when hauling a lot of 12' Hardy Plank siding in the bed.... got to keep reminding myself to slow down and take corners slowly.

P.S. As far as model year differences go, the '98 and up have Distributorless electronic ignition. And '00-onward models got noticeably heavier while power output stayed the same. If you get a manual transmission model, be prepared to not have a Tachometer (it's no big deal to install an aftermarket tach though...). And I wouldn't worry too much about the stock toyota clutch not lasting...just take care of it when starting off and it will take care of you.


[Modified by Vracer111, 9:59 AM 12/4/2002]

 

This is always interesting- I used to use my 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 SC with the 4.0L V-6 and 5 speed for towing the open trailer (~1700#) and 85 CRX. Usually run 4-6 events in the Midwest. Did run to Atlanta towing a second gen CRX Si once and brought back an 85 CRX Si. Ran well but slowed in the large hills. The only thing I did not like was starting from a stop. Truck had no problems in 80k miles when I sold it for other reasons.

Now I pull the same setup with a 97 Grand Cherokee and the inline 6 cyl and automatic. I do like the auto but need to keep Overdrive off as the manual suggests.

My trailer has surge brakes on both axles which greatly helps and I generally tow between 70 and 75 on the interstate.

 

so if what you guys are saying, a toyota v6 4runner is more than enough to tow a crx, trailer, etc??? i think its rated at 5000lbs
cause i dont WANT a cherokee id much rather have a 4runner.

 

It will PULL the trailer, yes. I have a buddy with a 95 4runner and we've done it. I don't like it. Hell, even with the V8 Cherokee I wish I had more truck when towing (compromise as a daily driver also).

Now that I'm pulling a trailer, I can completely agree with what everyone told me...get the biggest most powerful truck you can afford (and I'll add...compromise as needed if this is also your daily driver ).

 

yea see this is gonna be my daily driver, its a 30 minuet drive to work so im trying to find a compromise between
reliability
engine size
gas mileage
towing ability.

a 4runner might work ok tho...hmm

 

get a diesel, good mileage and they will last forever.. we have a 98 chevy with the 6.5l that my dad uses for his work truck... its always loaded down with at least 1000 lbs of **** and is used to tow a 9000 lb tractor reguarly. the only thing we have had to do other than oil and stuff is have the injectors cleaned and at 135k miles we put a new turbo on it. it gets around 18mpg

as for hte auto/manual debate..... ever try getting a 6000lb trailer goin up a hill with a 5spd.... it aint fun.

 

I used to tow my CRX with a V8 Exporer. It would get hairy with the swaying when there was a cross wind or when travelling 70+mph, and would only get about 12 mpg when towing, about 14-15 daily driving.

Then I got a used F250 Powerstroke. I daily drive it, and now have 210,000 miles on it, get 19mpg around town and 15 towing. When the trailer is on there, you hardly notice it, as it will pull up a mountain hwy at 70mph.

I will probably never get another truck that is not a diesel. It can travel about 500 miles between fillups, you have to stop to pee more than get fuel.

The one thing I would caution people on towing with a smaller truck, is that it may be OK around town and to a local track, but if you plan to race at tracks that take 5+ hours to get to on a routine basis, it is easy to be caught off guard when the gust of wind comes up. It is all over before you can get a hold of it.

 

Good info guys... I will keep rethinking my ideas.

My main reason on getting the smaller truck (V6 Tacoma 5speed) is the around town issue, reliability, and I hate automatics .

Thanks for your posts.

 

The 95 4Runner is absolutely anemic compared to the 96-02. The V6 has 150 horse, which is the same rating as the 96 4 cylinder. The 96+ have 174 horse, which doesn't sound like much more, but it also has an extra 400cc of displacement. Granted the 96 isn't exactly a tow horse, but it's considerably better.

 

I have 3 symbols for you Dave...

9C1

Search on ebay

-M-bot who will follow in CrackMonkey's steps sooner or later...

 

When you look at it, tow vehicles, are much like our race cars, we want more power. There is always something better. And there are always ways to make is stronger.

 

True, but a small/underpowered racecar isn't as dangerous as a small/underpowered tow vehicle.

 

4 to 5000 lbs on a compact truck/suv is ALOT. i had a 96 blazer that i towed about 2500 lbs of lawnmower with and i wouldnt want to tow any more than that with something that small. dont get me wrong.. it had plenty of power but if something goes wrong with the trailer you wont be able to control it.

 

the 96+ is also considerably more money, ive been looking its 8500+ for a 6cyl with less than 150k on it.