apex n1 coilovers ('99 spec) - anybody using these for road racing/ autox? ITR or DC2 please...
I can get a pretty good deal on these locally...
The stock rates are 10k F/ 5k R... I'd prefer 8k F/ 12k R...
So I wanted to find out what you guys have found to work best height-wise, as well as what shock settings and spring rates.
It looks like the springs are interchangable F to R, so I think I'll put a 15k spring on the rear and see how that feels with the 10k F...
Whatcha think?
The stock rates are 10k F/ 5k R... I'd prefer 8k F/ 12k R...
So I wanted to find out what you guys have found to work best height-wise, as well as what shock settings and spring rates.
It looks like the springs are interchangable F to R, so I think I'll put a 15k spring on the rear and see how that feels with the 10k F...
Whatcha think?
should work out well. carful of your classing though as full coilovers arent permitted in certain classes. or are you just open lapping with it? That what im doing for the next few years so i picked up the ZEAL Function S's with 12K R / 8K F.
Little lower than stock is a good place to start out. Not much about 1" or so, may need to drop front lower by a smidge, but play with it and figure out what you like.
I say get them. Friend has Apexi on his EG 4 door, and his car rips up the track.
cal - who is interested to see how well the ZEAL's will hold up....
Little lower than stock is a good place to start out. Not much about 1" or so, may need to drop front lower by a smidge, but play with it and figure out what you like.
I say get them. Friend has Apexi on his EG 4 door, and his car rips up the track.
cal - who is interested to see how well the ZEAL's will hold up....
I have had these on my car for almost two years. I love them. They are great for road racing and autocross. Except that the stock rates were 11kF/5kR. It was great for the street but it pushed really badly on the track and AutoX. A few months back I put the front springs in the back and in the front I put 8” 450lbs ERS’s. Now the car is very neutral under full throttle and I can get oversteer when I need it. I drive this on the street and use it for track and AutoX.
With 615’s in the rear, it is rather rough on the street, going much higher would be too rough. I keep the rear damper at full soft and the rear Azenis at 30psi for the softer ride on the street.
On the damper settings: Right now I have the front in the middle somewhere and the rear set at 2-4 clicks more stiff for autocross and the track. Your settings are going to be based on your spring rates. This is where you should experiment heavily on a slalom course.
By the way, the rates that you quoted are not stock on the 99 spec N1 dampers. 11k/5k are the rates they come with. Also, stock, is 8” front spring and 9” rear. When I swapped the springs I just bought the 8” to keep everything equal so I can have multiple sets of springs for different settings. I would recommend the 8” all the way around.
If you don’t mind: How much can you get these for? Let me know, it might not be such a good deal. Are they new or used?
With 615’s in the rear, it is rather rough on the street, going much higher would be too rough. I keep the rear damper at full soft and the rear Azenis at 30psi for the softer ride on the street.
On the damper settings: Right now I have the front in the middle somewhere and the rear set at 2-4 clicks more stiff for autocross and the track. Your settings are going to be based on your spring rates. This is where you should experiment heavily on a slalom course.
By the way, the rates that you quoted are not stock on the 99 spec N1 dampers. 11k/5k are the rates they come with. Also, stock, is 8” front spring and 9” rear. When I swapped the springs I just bought the 8” to keep everything equal so I can have multiple sets of springs for different settings. I would recommend the 8” all the way around.
If you don’t mind: How much can you get these for? Let me know, it might not be such a good deal. Are they new or used?
Cal,
I was actually going to go with s6, then decided on super functions b/c they came with the pillowball mounts. I like the 8kF/ 12kR which is what I would do (by swapping the stock stiff setup front to rear to get the oversteer bias I want...)
But then I came across a local buddy who said he has a set of the 99spec n1 dampers for $700 obo... That's certainly less than 1/2 of what the super functions will cost me - even with a discount. They're used for like maybe 4 months, so no biggie...
I was actually going to go with s6, then decided on super functions b/c they came with the pillowball mounts. I like the 8kF/ 12kR which is what I would do (by swapping the stock stiff setup front to rear to get the oversteer bias I want...)
But then I came across a local buddy who said he has a set of the 99spec n1 dampers for $700 obo... That's certainly less than 1/2 of what the super functions will cost me - even with a discount. They're used for like maybe 4 months, so no biggie...
95GSRRacer,
You sure on the stock rates? I'm no expert, but I called apex-i usa and that's what they told me...
Anyway, they emailed me a list of the spring setups they sell separately:
they are realizing that more and more people use these coilovers for road racing and autox, and also admit that the tendency is to understeer with the prepackaged rates simply b/c of safety/ streetability concerns... to that end, they are now offering separate rates:
They now sell 8", 9", and 10" springs in 11-14k, and 16k, 18k, 20k... I forgot to ask how hard of springs the shocks can take though... they did mention something about the 9" spring being able to compress more than the 8" spring and so on... I dunno how this will affect handling though...
I was thinking of ordering an extra set of springs in the exact same rate as the stiffer fronts (whether that's 10k or 11k is moot, imho...) or possibly 12k for the rear...
8" you suggest? Great.
I didn't understand your sentence about "615's in the rear..." being too much for the street...
Currently I have the stock itr swaybars, but will probably add at the very least the mugen 26mm swaybar, and a rear tower bar as well...
Like I said in another post, ~$700 for the complete set, used 4 months.
Are the shocks rebuildable/ upgradable, btw?
Oh yeah, for your settings what rear swaybar do you use? And do you run full interior?
[Modified by Black R, 10:27 PM 11/28/2002]
You sure on the stock rates? I'm no expert, but I called apex-i usa and that's what they told me...
Anyway, they emailed me a list of the spring setups they sell separately:
they are realizing that more and more people use these coilovers for road racing and autox, and also admit that the tendency is to understeer with the prepackaged rates simply b/c of safety/ streetability concerns... to that end, they are now offering separate rates:
They now sell 8", 9", and 10" springs in 11-14k, and 16k, 18k, 20k... I forgot to ask how hard of springs the shocks can take though... they did mention something about the 9" spring being able to compress more than the 8" spring and so on... I dunno how this will affect handling though...
I was thinking of ordering an extra set of springs in the exact same rate as the stiffer fronts (whether that's 10k or 11k is moot, imho...) or possibly 12k for the rear...
8" you suggest? Great. I didn't understand your sentence about "615's in the rear..." being too much for the street...
Currently I have the stock itr swaybars, but will probably add at the very least the mugen 26mm swaybar, and a rear tower bar as well...
Like I said in another post, ~$700 for the complete set, used 4 months.
Are the shocks rebuildable/ upgradable, btw?
Oh yeah, for your settings what rear swaybar do you use? And do you run full interior?
[Modified by Black R, 10:27 PM 11/28/2002]
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You sure on the stock rates? I'm no expert, but I called apex-i usa and that's what they told me...
I didn't understand your sentence about "615's in the rear..." being too much for the street...
I said the 615 are a the limit of being too much spring rate to drive on the street.
Currently I have the stock itr swaybars, but will probably add at the very least the mugen 26mm swaybar, and a rear tower bar as well...
they did mention something about the 9" spring being able to compress more than the 8" spring and so on... I dunno how this will affect handling though...
Are the shocks rebuildable/ upgradable, btw?
Yes, this is definitely what they put on my car, 11K/5K. I probably called them 3 times about it because I couldnt believe they would put these kind of rates on these coilovers. But this is what most of the "JDM" manuf. put on their stuff...
Sorry for the confusion, I did the conversion. Multiply your K/mm times 55.88 to get the lbs/in (11K *55.88) = 615lbs/in. So my setup: 450f/615r, ITR rear antisway bar with adjustable end links to full stiff, full interior, 205/50-15 Azenis tires, AEM intake, RSR headers, 98 ITR exhaust.
I said the 615 are a the limit of being too much spring rate to drive on the street.
Currently I have the stock itr swaybars, but will probably add at the very least the mugen 26mm swaybar, and a rear tower bar as well...
If the front antisway bar on the ITR is bigger than the GSR bar, then put the GSR bar back on. If you talk to most any real racer, they will tell you that bigger antisway bars are a band-aid approach to adjusting the handling of a car. Keeping this in mind: keep the ITR rear bar, its plenty! Since you are going to adjust the handling of the car using the springs, go with this rule of thumb for the GSR: 2f/3r ratio. For instance: 400f/600r spring rates will be 2/3 ratio. I have had many others comment that this is a great setup for someone who can drive with oversteer. This is also a great ratio on the GSR with a ITR rear antisway bar.
This does not matter in your case because of the spring rates your using in the rear. Keep in mind the rates they used in the rear on the 9” spring are 5k or 280lbs/in. In the back of the GSR, you are not going to compress that spring very far if you use 450+.
Yes, I recall them telling me that the dampers are rebuildable, revalvable, and they can hold up to around 1000lbs springs. You should call them again and ask them though and let me know.
Sorry for the confusion, I did the conversion. Multiply your K/mm times 55.88 to get the lbs/in (11K *55.88) = 615lbs/in. So my setup: 450f/615r, ITR rear antisway bar with adjustable end links to full stiff, full interior, 205/50-15 Azenis tires, AEM intake, RSR headers, 98 ITR exhaust.
I said the 615 are a the limit of being too much spring rate to drive on the street.
Currently I have the stock itr swaybars, but will probably add at the very least the mugen 26mm swaybar, and a rear tower bar as well...
If the front antisway bar on the ITR is bigger than the GSR bar, then put the GSR bar back on. If you talk to most any real racer, they will tell you that bigger antisway bars are a band-aid approach to adjusting the handling of a car. Keeping this in mind: keep the ITR rear bar, its plenty! Since you are going to adjust the handling of the car using the springs, go with this rule of thumb for the GSR: 2f/3r ratio. For instance: 400f/600r spring rates will be 2/3 ratio. I have had many others comment that this is a great setup for someone who can drive with oversteer. This is also a great ratio on the GSR with a ITR rear antisway bar.
This does not matter in your case because of the spring rates your using in the rear. Keep in mind the rates they used in the rear on the 9” spring are 5k or 280lbs/in. In the back of the GSR, you are not going to compress that spring very far if you use 450+.
Yes, I recall them telling me that the dampers are rebuildable, revalvable, and they can hold up to around 1000lbs springs. You should call them again and ask them though and let me know.
The jdm manufacturers apparently do this for safety reasons on behalf of those who purchase the coilovers - otherwise many a person could end up in a ditch...
That and the theory that they run skinnier tires in the rear is a common explanation of their seemingly backwards spring rate bias...
I'd prefer to run 205's or wider all around - so I can get more life out of the tires and swap F-->R and vice versa. Yes, I know the conversion from lb/ft to kg/mm... thanks though - I didn't "get it" on the 615 thing at first. I wasn't sure you were talking about spring rates or tire width...


Anyway, I must clarify that this is for my '00 itR. I think the chassis differences should be almost negligible with GSR (except for the swaybars), and agree with you that somewhere between 2/3 and 1/1 would be ideal for me. I'd like 2/3 ratio (400f/ 600r), but don't wanna get too crazy with oversteer from the get go. It'll be a far cry from the understeer prone stock itr suspension.
That's funny you mention a large swaybar being the bad way to correct handling, it's the second time I've read that today. So if the choice is between 400f/ 600r with stock itr swaybar or 400f/ 400r with 26mm swaybar, which is better? That probably belongs in another thread... I better go start one...

I'll be using 15x7 rims with 205/50 azenis as well.

Finally, what toe/ camber do you run front to rear?
And will I need a camber kit? I'd like to lower as much as will benefit handling, but not so much that it defeats the purpose... I intend to lower maybe 1" or so all around - maybe a little more in the front, then go get her cornerweighted and aligned.
Thoughts?
[Modified by Black R, 3:19 PM 11/29/2002]
Anyway, I must clarify that this is for my '00 itR. I think the chassis differences should be almost negligible with GSR (except for the swaybars),
and agree with you that somewhere between 2/3 and 1/1 would be ideal for me. I'd like 2/3 ratio (400f/ 600r), but don't wanna get too crazy with oversteer from the get go. It'll be a far cry from the understeer prone stock itr suspension.
That's funny you mention a large swaybar being the bad way to correct handling, it's the second time I've read that today. So if the choice is between 400f/ 600r with stock itr swaybar or 400f/ 400r with 26mm swaybar, which is better? That probably belongs in another thread... I better go start one...
And will I need a camber kit? I'd like to lower as much as will benefit handling, but not so much that it defeats the purpose... I intend to lower maybe 1" or so all around - maybe a little more in the front, then go get her cornerweighted and aligned.
Cornerweighting will make all the difference in the world. Find out who is doing the cornerweighting for all the road race guys in your area and let him do it. That’s what I did. You cant just let any blow joe do the cornerweighting.
If the front antisway bar on the ITR is bigger than the GSR bar, then put the GSR bar back on.
--buji
*waits for RStoR to chime in now...*
ok r0cker...here is my take on it. I
mine! I concur with all the info. Apexi offers springs from 4-20 kg/mm. Supposedly Apexi is starting to rebuild the shocks here in the States now, versus sending them overseas. Think Eric had to do that with his. The only drawback to the shocks (in my opinion) is the adjustment clicks. You can hardly feel or hear them. If I remember correctly there are something like 18-24 clicks, but only 13 actual adjust. Kinda weird! My set-up has been std rates listed above, lowered approx. 1", 205/50/15 wheels, with OE ITR sways/strut bar. Think I have the fronts at 9 clicks and the rear at 11 clicks. Pretty firm. This has worked great for me and only my last 2 HPDEs did I really start to get push. Since I'm swapping these to the hatch, I will probably order some 12-13 kg-mm springs for the rear and keep the 11's in the front. I'll be running a Civic EX frt sway (21mm) and ITR rear (22mm). Stay tuned.
PS: I never got the car re-aligned after lowering it. Take a look at the tires tomorrow when you pick them up with Will and I think you'll see that the wear was great. Got 4 HPDE weekends and countless road miles out of them.
Cornerweighting will make all the difference in the world. Find out who is doing the cornerweighting for all the road race guys in your area and let him do it. That’s what I did. You cant just let any blow joe do the cornerweighting.
Cal,
I was actually going to go with s6, then decided on super functions b/c they came with the pillowball mounts. I like the 8kF/ 12kR which is what I would do (by swapping the stock stiff setup front to rear to get the oversteer bias I want...)
But then I came across a local buddy who said he has a set of the 99spec n1 dampers for $700 obo... That's certainly less than 1/2 of what the super functions will cost me - even with a discount. They're used for like maybe 4 months, so no biggie...
I was actually going to go with s6, then decided on super functions b/c they came with the pillowball mounts. I like the 8kF/ 12kR which is what I would do (by swapping the stock stiff setup front to rear to get the oversteer bias I want...)
But then I came across a local buddy who said he has a set of the 99spec n1 dampers for $700 obo... That's certainly less than 1/2 of what the super functions will cost me - even with a discount. They're used for like maybe 4 months, so no biggie...
ENDLESS/ZEAL Customer Service/ Technical Support USA =
I dont have the money to throw down for the Super Functions but have rode on them for a bit and was IN LOVE!!! I will grab a set in a few years after i finsih a couple more years of lapping and HPDE's. Hopefully by than i will be able to take my liscense test and than get into some w2w racing like ECHC
95GSRRacer,
Could you tell me what the distance is from the ground to the bottom of each fender at all 4 corners on your car? I'm thinking this will give me a good place to start height-wise... (Assuming you've already gotten it cornerweighted).
Could you tell me what the distance is from the ground to the bottom of each fender at all 4 corners on your car? I'm thinking this will give me a good place to start height-wise... (Assuming you've already gotten it cornerweighted).
That and the theory that they run skinnier tires in the rear is a common explanation of their seemingly backwards spring rate bias...
I'd prefer to run 205's or wider all around - so I can get more life out of the tires and swap F-->R and vice versa.
----What sort of theory???
Most people who run different tire sizes f/r are real die-hard enthusiasts and shop cars who can afford to do such things. If running 215 or 225 in the front proves that they can shave 1/10's from their lap time, they will do it. They are increasing the available traction in the front by having a larger contact patch instead of reducing traction in the rear to get the car to rotate. They are concentrating in gaining tracion in the front to fight understeer instead of sacrificing traction in the rear to get the car to rotate and reducing understeer.
That's funny you mention a large swaybar being the bad way to correct handling, it's the second time I've read that today. So if the choice is between 400f/ 600r with stock itr swaybar or 400f/ 400r with 26mm swaybar, which is better? That probably belongs in another thread... I better go start one...
-----Getting info from other people is always good but , it is ultimately u who will decide what is best. Its a matter of trial and error.
[Modified by Black R, 3:19 PM 11/29/2002]
I'd prefer to run 205's or wider all around - so I can get more life out of the tires and swap F-->R and vice versa. ----What sort of theory???
Most people who run different tire sizes f/r are real die-hard enthusiasts and shop cars who can afford to do such things. If running 215 or 225 in the front proves that they can shave 1/10's from their lap time, they will do it. They are increasing the available traction in the front by having a larger contact patch instead of reducing traction in the rear to get the car to rotate. They are concentrating in gaining tracion in the front to fight understeer instead of sacrificing traction in the rear to get the car to rotate and reducing understeer.
That's funny you mention a large swaybar being the bad way to correct handling, it's the second time I've read that today. So if the choice is between 400f/ 600r with stock itr swaybar or 400f/ 400r with 26mm swaybar, which is better? That probably belongs in another thread... I better go start one...

-----Getting info from other people is always good but , it is ultimately u who will decide what is best. Its a matter of trial and error.
[Modified by Black R, 3:19 PM 11/29/2002]
yes, sway bars are a band-aid approach to the problem of understeer..*BUT* for a street car that will see some track time and mainly autoX it is a pretty damn good solution....for me, I didn't feel like running 700 lbs springs up front, so I run 500 with a 25mm front bar....
slightly OT, but why has it come about that JDM gymkhana/track set-ups for FWD cars are so dramatically different that over here? why all the front spring on JDM cars? I've heard of championship winning gymkhana CTR's running as much as 1200 lbs front springs!!!
it doesn't make sense, both on paper, and by the sheer physics of the set-up
slightly OT, but why has it come about that JDM gymkhana/track set-ups for FWD cars are so dramatically different that over here? why all the front spring on JDM cars? I've heard of championship winning gymkhana CTR's running as much as 1200 lbs front springs!!!
it doesn't make sense, both on paper, and by the sheer physics of the set-up
yes, sway bars are a band-aid approach to the problem of understeer..*BUT* for a street car that will see some track time and mainly autoX it is a pretty damn good solution....for me, I didn't feel like running 700 lbs springs up front, so I run 500 with a 25mm front bar....
slightly OT, but why has it come about that JDM gymkhana/track set-ups for FWD cars are so dramatically different that over here? why all the front spring on JDM cars? I've heard of championship winning gymkhana CTR's running as much as 1200 lbs front springs!!!
it doesn't make sense, both on paper, and by the sheer physics of the set-up
slightly OT, but why has it come about that JDM gymkhana/track set-ups for FWD cars are so dramatically different that over here? why all the front spring on JDM cars? I've heard of championship winning gymkhana CTR's running as much as 1200 lbs front springs!!!
it doesn't make sense, both on paper, and by the sheer physics of the set-up
it seems like most of the drivers here like the fact that they can have oversteer when they want it. in japan, most people want a slight understeer (fear is a big factor i believe). but not all drivers are like that. some of the drivers have close to same spring rates front and back, and some more to the rear. in an article i read (which i said i would post up, but ended up not being able to) a driver tried anything from a stock spring rate and up, and ended up that the time had no difference (this is probably because the driver was a pro GT driver, can adjust his driving technique to the rates). but he clearly mentioned that some of the spring rates were very uncomfortable to drive on.
i may be able to answer this question.
it seems like most of the drivers here like the fact that they can have oversteer when they want it. in japan, most people want a slight understeer (fear is a big factor i believe). but not all drivers are like that. some of the drivers have close to same spring rates front and back, and some more to the rear. in an article i read (which i said i would post up, but ended up not being able to) a driver tried anything from a stock spring rate and up, and ended up that the time had no difference (this is probably because the driver was a pro GT driver, can adjust his driving technique to the rates). but he clearly mentioned that some of the spring rates were very uncomfortable to drive on.
it seems like most of the drivers here like the fact that they can have oversteer when they want it. in japan, most people want a slight understeer (fear is a big factor i believe). but not all drivers are like that. some of the drivers have close to same spring rates front and back, and some more to the rear. in an article i read (which i said i would post up, but ended up not being able to) a driver tried anything from a stock spring rate and up, and ended up that the time had no difference (this is probably because the driver was a pro GT driver, can adjust his driving technique to the rates). but he clearly mentioned that some of the spring rates were very uncomfortable to drive on.
nate
fear has nothing to do with it. the jdm setup is far from a "front biased roll stiffness" setup. you have to look at everything, not just springs. with the typical 11k f/5k r setup with an itr front and rear bar will yeild a 50/50 roll couple distribution. the race setups are even more aggressive then that.
nate
nate
.....I didn't understand your post. Are you saying that stock itr w 11k F/ 5k R will be a 50/50 ratio for xxxxx?
It went over my head... -the r0cker, who = confused
roll couple is the total amount of roll stiffness at an end of the car. total roll couple is the total amount of roll stiffness from each end of the car added together. roll couple distribution is the percentage of the total roll couple that each end makes up. so if your total roll couple was 1000lbs/in, and your roll couple distribution was 40%f/60%r, your front roll couple (or roll stiffness) is 400lbs/in and your rear roll couple is 600lbs/in. to calculate the roll couple for each end of your car, you need to know the spring rate, the bar rate, and the motion ratio for each of these. (the wheel rate for the sway bar will be different then the spring wheel rate in most cars) comparing spring rates will get you no where.
my setup:
front:
600lbs springs
24mm itr bar
total roll couple front=640
rear:
500lbs springs
22mm st bar
total roll couple rear=930
totals:
roll couple=1570
front %= about 41%
rear %= about 59%
the moral. just because someone has stiffer front springs doesn't necessarily mean they have more front roll stiffness.
sorry for the bland presentation. i could throw in some insults if it would spice things up!

nate-hoping that somebody can digest all that.
edit. roll couple is important because it gives a much more accurate picture of the cars setup concerning which end carries more cornering weight and by how much. take a 40/60 distribution. if your car transfers 1000lbs in a 1g corner, you know that the outside front gets 400lbs and the outside rear gets 600lbs. of course, you have to know how much weight your car transfers in a corner of whatever cornering force your car can generate and a bunch of other things that i won't get into.....
[Modified by solo-x, 1:25 AM 12/3/2002]
my setup:
front:
600lbs springs
24mm itr bar
total roll couple front=640
rear:
500lbs springs
22mm st bar
total roll couple rear=930
totals:
roll couple=1570
front %= about 41%
rear %= about 59%
the moral. just because someone has stiffer front springs doesn't necessarily mean they have more front roll stiffness.
sorry for the bland presentation. i could throw in some insults if it would spice things up!

nate-hoping that somebody can digest all that.
edit. roll couple is important because it gives a much more accurate picture of the cars setup concerning which end carries more cornering weight and by how much. take a 40/60 distribution. if your car transfers 1000lbs in a 1g corner, you know that the outside front gets 400lbs and the outside rear gets 600lbs. of course, you have to know how much weight your car transfers in a corner of whatever cornering force your car can generate and a bunch of other things that i won't get into.....
[Modified by solo-x, 1:25 AM 12/3/2002]
i still think fear does play a big roll. im not good with the engineering/physics part of that, but the fact that most japanese racers like slight understeer doesnt change. and the fact that one of the racers came up with apprx. the same time with different spring rate still holds true.



