Anyone running a DIY icebox? Is it worth trying out, or no difference between stock? Does it still retain the quietness of the stock airbox and resonator(sp)?

 

i had 10 ft-lbs more torque below vtec with the DIY icebox compared to no icebox and no resonator. It was also quieter than when i removed the resonator. You probably wouldn't notice the noise difference too much compared to completely stock.

 

Where is the link to to the DIY page for this?

 

http://www.geocities.com/bretq/DIY_Icebox_CAI.html

Let me know if you have any questions.

The DIY "Icebox" is only slightly louder than stock. IMHO, it makes a very noticeable difference when compared to stock. The throttle response is better, as well as, much better low end torque.

Also, the dimensions of the DIY "Icebox" (ie. air box and piping) is the same as the Comptech Icebox. So the performance should be nearly identical.

 

the best part about the DIY systems, or even the comptech unit I assume, is that you can take the lid off the filter box and run it as a short ram. when race day comes, you put the top back on and CAI.

this is how I do it, and there are no issues with the filter coming out at all, and I have had this mod for at least 90k miles.

 

Bret

After reading your directions, out of curiousity, why does one need to "Drill a ¼" hole in the bottom of the airbox."

Thanks in advance

 

This is a "safety feature" which will help to prevent the ingestion of water into the intake if the intake opening is submerged in water. This would be similiar to making a hole is the side of a drinking straw.

Here is an picture of a Comptech Icebox which shows the hole.

 

so do you guys still have any worry about hydrolock with this setup?

 

i made my diy icebox setup using no money. i just broke apart my resonator and took out the tube that was in it. becareful not to break the tube when take apart the resonator. i cut the tube on the straight part of the tube after the first bend. then i used some electrical tape and assembled the tube back together so that now the end of the tube points out towards the turn signal. might not be as good as Brets DIY icebox, but it was worth it for free heheh

 

I don't have a single worry about hydrolock with the DIY "Icebox". For one, I would never drive through standing water. And if I absolutely had to drive through standing water, I have a screwdriver in my glove compartment to remove the top of the airbox.

 

hey, i tried to make this a week or two ago but i cant find any 3 in thin walled pvc and i dont have my resonator. if anyone would be able to send some of this that would be great, hit me up if you can, thanks.

 

i have a DIY icebox, it sounds cool, mine has a nice gutteral growl that i enjoy very much for the price, performance gains imo were negligible of course the rest of my car is stock. As far as hydrolock is concerned yes its possible, mine got saturated but only after driving through very high water not to mention the intake of mine is pointed out through the bottom of the fender for a ram air type effect. however, my girlfriend killed the car as soon as it bogged down and saved my engine i just had to shoot the water out of the spark plug holes. So i would say considering mine points down and out of the bottom and we were flooded and my engine still works great the odds are if your not an idiot driver you'll be OK. just my .02

 

I was going to run this set up, I currently have my stock air box and with the resonator removed. could I take a short stack air intake and attach it to a drop in or K&N conversion drop in? Has anyone done this mod?

 

You may have some trouble locating the 3" thin-walled PVC. I have checked 3 different Lowe's and 3 different Home Depots and they both don't carry it. You may try a Ace hardware. I had someone inform me that they found it there.

I'm not sure if you are aware or interested, but I sell a pre-assembled, ready-to- install DIY "Icebox" kit for $30 shipped. You can go to http://www.geocities.com/bretq/icetake_cai.html for further information. It contains everything needed to do the install.


[Modified by BSQ, 7:46 PM 11/9/2002]

 

i just bought Bob-DC2's so i will be putting it in the next few days. what kind of filter do you guys recommend?

 

Are you running the stock filter or an aftermarket filter. Also, what filter is used in the comptech ice box. Does it come with one? I'm thinking getting rid of my cai and going with the icebox.


[Modified by jdmb18c, 1:47 AM 11/10/2002]

 

Where is the resonator? Where does the tube that goes from the bottom of the filter box goto?

 

Passenger size wheel well.

Air comes through the front left turn signal.

 

the resonator is below the air box. there is a tube that goes from under the filter box to the white box. if you break apart the resonator you will see the whole tube.

 

I'm using a K&N RU-2820 universal airfilter attached to the stock black filter elbow. Comptech offers their own foam airfilter and it isn't included with the Icebox.


[Modified by BSQ, 10:22 PM 11/10/2002]

 

Thanks BSQ. I saw that you need the comptech filter with their box but I was wondering about the diy. Did tou see an increase in hp/tq with the K&n?

 

I personally haven't dynoed my car to see if the K&N filter increase HP and TQ, but I have seen a couple of dyno sheets and some show a gain of 1-2 HP and some show no gain. I know the K&N flows better than the stock filter and I also like it because it is reusable.

 

Seeing how the K&N RU-2820 is smaller then the direct replacment for the integra filter. would the direct replacment be better?

 

The RU-2820 has the same diameter as the stock filter (5.0") and it is 6.5" in length (the stock filter is 7.0" long). The E-2427 (K&N direct replacement) is also 5.0" in diameter and it is ~7.5" in length. So the E-2427 is the same diameter as the RU-2820 and is 1.0" longer.

A few years ago someone did a calculation to determine the air filter surface area required for the 1.8L engine and they determined that the stock filter surface area was more than sufficient; therefore, I don't think that you would see improvement in using the E-2427 instead of the RU-2820.

 

A $40-$50 difference in price alone is well worth it to me to use a 1" shorter K&N. I also use the RU-2820 bolted to the stock filter neck. Along w/ the stock filter end piece, it's pretty much a perfect direct fit.