Wheel bearing replacement
I need to replace a wheel bearing. Can someone help me with exactly what parts I need to order?

- 4 - bearing (obviously)
- I already have a new axle nut
Is there anything else?
Does the hub itself ever need replacing when doing this?
Symptoms - with the wheel off the ground there is slight but noticable play when moving the wheel or with the wheel off the rotor. I haven't checked torque on the axle bolt but it's indented and doesn't appear to have moved. I don't think this would effect anything anyway.
While I'm at it, does anyone around Raleigh have a recommendation for a place to take it? I would probably remove the spindle and carry it to them as I'm wary about leaving the car.
[Modified by JeffS, 11:06 PM 10/21/2002]

- 4 - bearing (obviously)
- I already have a new axle nut
Is there anything else?
Does the hub itself ever need replacing when doing this?
Symptoms - with the wheel off the ground there is slight but noticable play when moving the wheel or with the wheel off the rotor. I haven't checked torque on the axle bolt but it's indented and doesn't appear to have moved. I don't think this would effect anything anyway.
While I'm at it, does anyone around Raleigh have a recommendation for a place to take it? I would probably remove the spindle and carry it to them as I'm wary about leaving the car.
[Modified by JeffS, 11:06 PM 10/21/2002]
For the front, you need to remove the knuckle/hub assembly. You will need to remove the brake disc & caliper first. You will also need to remove the axle nut & axle from the hub. The bearing replacement will require that the hub be pressed off of the knuckle. The bad bearing will then be pressed out of the knuckle. The new bearing gets pressed into the knuckle & then the hub gets pressed back on.
You will need a bearing & axle nut per side in the front.
For the rear, you need to buy a new hub per side. It will come loaded with a new bearing. You will also need a new axle nut per side.
You will need a bearing & axle nut per side in the front.
For the rear, you need to buy a new hub per side. It will come loaded with a new bearing. You will also need a new axle nut per side.
Does the hub itself ever need replacing when doing this?
[Modified by johng, 9:30 PM 10/21/2002]
Thanks guys... I do have a press, but I'm not sure that I feel very confident about doing the work myself. I've only got 3-4 months to get this done so if I start planning now it should be ready for next year.
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Jeff... this coming from a guy who replaced all his bushings w/ ES ones??
I KNOW you can do it. CUz I would rather do 50 wheel bearings than 1 whole bushing kit.
Pete
Who would gladly do it for you if you were to replace some bushings for the CRX
I KNOW you can do it. CUz I would rather do 50 wheel bearings than 1 whole bushing kit.
Pete
Who would gladly do it for you if you were to replace some bushings for the CRX
since its just a 1999 suspension, i wont completely insist you replace the hub along with the bearing, but it certainly is necessary to replace the hub if they havent been replaced before with a car like a CRX. really sucked for me since i started the season replacing just the bearings and repacking them with synthetic grease and just putting them back on the same old hubs, thinking they would be ok. within TWO separate races later in the season, each hub broke. costed me a race the first time, and happened during qualifying the next time and was able to put the spare on before the race. i have bought opm hardened hubs since.
ill also mention hub failures are a very bad thing. think about it, the wheel is now completely separated from the car. if its not for the caliper holding the rotor, my wheel would have continued down turn 10 at 90 mph on a very late apex while the rest my car learned a new doggy trick called the roll... the other time it actually came apart pulling into the paddock after qualifying.
since i mentioned it, i recommend replacing the grease in the bearing with synthetic grease, mobil1 synthetic is good. the oem grease packed in the bearings are not designed to take the heat of constant high speed lapping. i can explain this more if you want.
oh and if you have a press, its very simple to do. if you are reusing the hubs, youll find the inside inner race still stuck on the hub. this can be a bitch to get out, use a gear puller to pull it out or just find a way to hammer it off. just have a wide assortment of different sized plates. and remember after you press the bearing in, and are ready to press the hub in, you MUST put the circlip back in. very easy to forget, and very important to have in place.
[Modified by Tyson, 12:34 AM 10/22/2002]
ill also mention hub failures are a very bad thing. think about it, the wheel is now completely separated from the car. if its not for the caliper holding the rotor, my wheel would have continued down turn 10 at 90 mph on a very late apex while the rest my car learned a new doggy trick called the roll... the other time it actually came apart pulling into the paddock after qualifying.
since i mentioned it, i recommend replacing the grease in the bearing with synthetic grease, mobil1 synthetic is good. the oem grease packed in the bearings are not designed to take the heat of constant high speed lapping. i can explain this more if you want.
oh and if you have a press, its very simple to do. if you are reusing the hubs, youll find the inside inner race still stuck on the hub. this can be a bitch to get out, use a gear puller to pull it out or just find a way to hammer it off. just have a wide assortment of different sized plates. and remember after you press the bearing in, and are ready to press the hub in, you MUST put the circlip back in. very easy to forget, and very important to have in place.
[Modified by Tyson, 12:34 AM 10/22/2002]
the circlip(25), can that be reused or should it be replaced?
was the noyse da bearing?

Will
-who is on his 2nd F/L wheel bearing
was the noyse da bearing?
y
shi - whose still waiting for his buddy at Acura to come back to work
yes, you can do it yourself if you have a press. the key is to never have weight/pressure across the bearing, only on the races. if you do that, they're easy to replace. i just dropped mine off to a shop like others mentioned
you don't need a press if you're replacing the bearing.
just hammer that badboy out with a large socket.
and hammer the new one in, VERY carefully, using big big big sockets (20+mm sockets). Easy stuff.
-Kam
who would rather replace suspension bushings than wheel bearings since suspension bushings are easy!
just hammer that badboy out with a large socket.
and hammer the new one in, VERY carefully, using big big big sockets (20+mm sockets). Easy stuff.
-Kam
who would rather replace suspension bushings than wheel bearings since suspension bushings are easy!
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