With pistons, rods, and blockguard whats the life expectancy of stock b20 sleeves at say... 8lbs daily 10lbs max?

 

 

if its tuned well, probably a really long time.

 

Assuming its tuned properly...

 

dude stock B20 will take 10psi no problem man. it;s more tunning.
above 10psi depends if your lucky & if it;s tunned well enough.

 

10 MAX
12-13 MAX with Forged pistons
14+ = Race fuel

 

I'm sure if I could push 12psi with my stock D16, you should have no problem pushing 12psi on a decently tuned B20.

 

does the b20 have to be resleeved to run forged pistons?

 

B20's will overheat with boost specialy reving high. Long stroke too much friction against the sleeves. I know piople who done this it will not last long when abused.

 

It has the same stroke as an ls and I don't see anyone overheating those... Overheating is caused by a cooling problem. Friction against the sleeves won't cause a car to overheat.

 

There is a defect in alot of B20 blocks. I have a friend who works at a honda dealership and I have got two B20's from him and both sleeves were cracked in non-loading area's. He said they have thrown up to five B20's in the garbage from the same issues.
I think it is strange that they are cracking when the Crv's were all stock driven by ages older than 30.
The sleeve design is totally different then any other Honda block.
I wouldn't use a b20 unless it has some GE's

 

I'll be running 8.5:1 compression with a custom-made blockguard, and stock pistons/rods with my built B18C head. I guess I shouldn't push over 10psi either huh? I'm the type of guy that would abuse my engine, on a daily basis. Now you have me worried..

 

It is all about the tuning again I say
4 stroke had
pistons/rods/block guard<--ask him for that
in his b20
boosted i think 17psi cracked his sleeves
510injecturs
controller
etc..

Inline pro did it or something not to sure tuned it and dynoed it.
cracked his sleeves

<--old b18b stock setup with 310 injectors, and 12:1 FMU and fuel rail, no pump bossted 17psi like 30times at the track on race gas. ended up blowing headgasket on the hwy redlining 5th gear at 8psi which I should of never done.

 

mine lasted about 8000 miles, really not sure what happend, it just started idling funny one day and i went though the whole diagnostics of stuck fuel injectors, ignition etc.. and finally driving it around a bit, it just started smoking really bad so i figured it was a headgasket. Got the head off in 40 mins and blam. all 4 cyl sleeves were cracked across where the seam is. I will take some pics soon.

I have heard some people have great luck with the B20 and boost, Mine is not so great. I am wondering if there is a difference in the sleeves between the B20B and B20Z. I had a B20B and seeing where it cracked its like OMG thats a major design problem.

My Sugjestion is if you are going to goto all the work to put rods/pistons in, get it sleeved too. Its worth it. ( I found out the hard way) Now I am going to be taking it all apart and off to Golden Eagle it goes. I cant wait to get it back. 10psi on it was crazy, it pulled so hard in 3rd. Makes me curious to see what 15-20psi feel like

Jay

 

Of course I didn't have a blockguard but I dont think that it would have helped much anyway. Plus I didnt want to have any cooling problems.

Before 10psi


After 10psi



Jay

 

its not much of a design problem. you gotta take in the fact that the CRV block wasnt made to go fast, it was made for a SUV.

The single sleeve is trash.


[Modified by bretx0r, 8:17 PM 10/12/2002]

 

U know, its funny how everyone says you will have overheating problems when using a blockguard. I've had a blockguard in my D16Y8, and I pushed as high as 24psi of boost on pump gas.. never cracked a sleeve.. and that was with STOCK sleeves.. never had any overheating problems either.

I've just had a custom blockguard made for my B20B block that i'll be putting into my teg, and seeing from my past experiences, should help strengthen it a lot and help me see 10-12psi daily. My car will be tuned on a dyno, and I have 550cc injectors with a very good standalone ECU, so I don't see why I should run into any problems. I hope I didn't just jinx myself..

 

Funny....mine cracked at the same spot. Correction: I was boosting at 1 BAR, 14.5 ~ 15 PSI, not 16 PSI.

 

Just e-mailed those pics to my engine guy, he tells me that crack could've been avoided with a blockguard, as it would have held the outer walls in tightly, and removed a lot of the stress around the areas where the sleeves were cracked..

 

Ya good chance it would of, but still the whole sleeve design doesn't seem to be very good. I think even with a block gaurd its just a matter of time before it would break though that. It seems to go though right in that groove where the inner/outter sleeve is pressed together. So it only has to break though 2mm of sleeve before it follows the pressed together edge to the other side.

Oh well, just time to move up to some fat iron ductile sleeves and turn the boost up more!

 

Well, i've never cracked any sleeves when using blockguards with my experience, so let's see what happens once i get my teg back on the road

 

hey man my block look just like yours only thing is this is the second time around for me in 2 months. i have one last b20 block ready to be install hopefully next week if it doesn't rain. but this time the turbo is coming out tempory just run it n/a for now till i get my spare block resleeve. so i still need those rings from you.

 

djdxm can you say detonation
Even with a block guard you would get the same result
When you have real bad detonation the weakest link goes

 

It looks to me like its just the unisleeve design that doesnt agree with boost. Plenty of personal experience has been posted for me to conclude that this design is weaker when compared to the regular honda sleeve design. As of now i think ill go with an ls setup instead. Ill keep an eye on nathans setup though out of curiosity. Who knows maybe the issue could be resolved with a blockguard. Both setups cracked in the same spot and neither had any kind of block reinforcement.

Like i said in the beginning. Id only like to run around 8-10lbs. If I end up with an LS it will probably be 10-12lbs.

 

Oh, I have an LambdaLink (a proper A/F ratio meter, not a discolight Autometer one) and KnockLink (Knock) meters connected to my Link ECU, so if there is any slight detonation at all, I'll be the first one to know - I think i've taken enough safety precautions. Lean fuel or Knocking under WOT.. I can see it all.