hey guys i was rolling and all of asudden my engine dies...
i got a code 20 electric load,
code 10, and my tach doesnt work(aftermarket)
my main fuse clicks like crazy or doesnt at all....
my temp gauge its all the way up
all lights kindA STAY 1/4 LIT
its not starting
i just swaped a Si tranny today, and everything tis back on place.... dunno why its doing it,....
i reset the ecu and checked the ELD conector and they dont help at all.... my radar detector goes on/off like crazy...
has anybody fixed this or have info i can fix it... i am 1hr away s from home and need to fix it so i can leave.....

 

my 93 haynes says if the test they tell u to do faill, u need to change the whole main fuse box pANEL..... that means only the blakc box on the engine comp or the whole harness and fuse box and ****

HELPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!! its getting dark, time its running out and my car wont do ****..
basically with key on.... check light, oil, batt, lights will come one... and when i turn the key nuttin happens/

 

ttt PLEASE HELP!!!!

 

holy ****-i just try to start my car today and i got the same code.but i think i have a bad ground somewhere.i just recently dropped this motor in and today i finnally try to start it and this ****.i know one thing i had a bad ecu.ubt even after changing that car wont start just clicks.

 

maybe your alternator is going??? just a guess.

 

IF you have checked that you have good grounds and the rest of the wiring is OK, I will also assume that the battery is good as well. If the code points to the ELD-you have to replace the fuse panel under the hood as this part only comes molded into the box.

 

i cant evern get a code now.my dash lights seem to flicker.i really hope i can find this bad wire or bad ground.i abosultely have no idea how to find electric problems.i can't use a fluke

 

ok heres what i did....
i called my bro in PR and he told me that sometimes when alternators go bad they change from DC to AC>.... well he told me to disconect the pos off the alt... i did and the car turned on.... the engine was cold and all the way down on the gauge,... so i dont know if its still running like crazy.... so far the engine turned on without hesitating.... hope thats the problem... a bad alternator....

 

Sounds to me like you've got one or a couple of corrodded common grounds.. Too bad I don't have a wiring diagram for it.. But good luck..

 

well heres more bad info....
i cheked my wiring for shorts.... i put a voltmeter red cable on the neg cable of the car (disconected) and the black one to the neg pole of the bat... i got 12V+.... so that means i got a short somewhere,..... well its not actually a short... its a drain since i havent blown any fuse.... so far i have disconected the ecu , dizzy, fan, alt, starter, main relay, my msd switch and relay completely, and i still got that drain somewhere,... right now i took all my fuses off and checked wich one had power on both conectors.. so far the Alternator solenoid valve ,and the cig lighter relay, gave me 12V+ on both terminals.... isnt that supposed to mean that the short its on that circuit?? need help...!!! also i have never seen a fusible link on hondas... is there any at all??? please i NEED MORE HELP!!!! thanxs

 

The test you are doing only works for open fuses circuits. If the fuse is bad-you get voltage across the terminals. Now, there are NO fusible links on our cars. There are 3 large fuses. The main fuse is 60 amps, the Ignition circuit is 50 amps and the Lighting circuit is on a 40 amp fuse at least in an 89 CRX. Check all 3 of them with the battery connected. Put your tester across each one and if voltage is there-it is bad. DO NOT connect the meter to Ground for these tests.
Next test will be with the (-) lead of the tester connected to Ground. You can check the Alternator output by connecting the (+) lead to either the battery "+" or to the fusebox where the Alternator connects. With the engine OFF-you should read about 12.7 volts. With the engine running-you should have about 14.1 to 14.3 volts. Any other value and something is wrong.
Hope this helps a bit.

 

Its most definitely a ground somewhere. Had the problem with my freinds car, and he put a new ground terminal for the battery, and he never put the 2nd ground hookup. Not that it is it on yours but it was same problem and same code being thrown, 20.

 

gnd are not a problems.. they are all in their right spots...

 

having the same problem with my girlfriends car.... temp gauge soars when the lights are on ... .lights are really dim and key ding fades real bad .... .also. ... the dreaded code 20 .... trying and trying but cannot fix the problem

 

problem solved .... grounds grounds grounds grounds .... i installed a grounding kit to starter, alternator, block, head, tranny and lights and all of the symptoms went away ..... if your are having the same problem try a grounding kit ... it WILL save your alot of hassle