Idle Problem Solved * yay *
Turned out to be the FIV, i blocked it with some of the left over alumn left from my EGR block plate and rerouted the coolant lines and the car idles smooth and no pop, note it still idles high when i first started it as the car was cool but as it warmed up the car idled out too 700rpms.
Its not hard
most of my time was spent taking the TB off but basically you will remove the sensors around the TB so you can move it. undo the throttle cable where there mounted to the Intake manifold take out the hose that goes from the pcv to IM off, remove your intake if you have and remove upper strut bar as well if you havent. also remove the coolant lines running into the FIV after everything is undo the bolts from the TB are out your going to want to remove it the only thing left attached to it should be the thottle cables when pulling the TB off be sure not to tear your gasket. with the TB removed unbolt the FIV from it and i didnt fit my plate exactly too the outline of the FIV basically you just need a square and then drill 3 holes for where it bolts up too i held the Aluminium plate to the FIV and placed them in a table mounted vice and then drilled my holes make sure your holes line up and make sure the FIV bolts will fit threw the holes ok before you try to mount it back up. mount the FIV up with the plate inbetween it and the TB tighten it down and just look around the FIV where it seals to the TB look at it should be flush together. youll want to reroute your coolant lines with the TB OFF the intake manifold so do this next either get a longer piece of hose to go directly from one point to the next or get something to join the two hoses together.... the pipe that was on the stock intake arm coolant lines will work. after you joined them together get some vacume caps and cap the two coolant inlet spots on the FIV,TB now just bolt everything back up reconnect your sensors and your done. i went ahead and zip tied the new coolant lines to hang down away from the TB and the sensors behind it. with the longer line and less in the middle it moves more easily and might want to rub against a sensor wire. let me know if you need anything else sorry i fdidnt take pictures.
edit: damn i typed alot...
Just for you Gennady
Terminology:
FIV - Fast idle valve
TB - Throttle Body
IM - Intake Manifold
anything else?
oh yeah when i said "sensors" i ment to say ALL THE EXPENSIVE PIECES OF CRAP that when they break like to make my car go... hu?
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 8:01 PM 9/30/2002]
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 8:06 PM 9/30/2002]
most of my time was spent taking the TB off but basically you will remove the sensors around the TB so you can move it. undo the throttle cable where there mounted to the Intake manifold take out the hose that goes from the pcv to IM off, remove your intake if you have and remove upper strut bar as well if you havent. also remove the coolant lines running into the FIV after everything is undo the bolts from the TB are out your going to want to remove it the only thing left attached to it should be the thottle cables when pulling the TB off be sure not to tear your gasket. with the TB removed unbolt the FIV from it and i didnt fit my plate exactly too the outline of the FIV basically you just need a square and then drill 3 holes for where it bolts up too i held the Aluminium plate to the FIV and placed them in a table mounted vice and then drilled my holes make sure your holes line up and make sure the FIV bolts will fit threw the holes ok before you try to mount it back up. mount the FIV up with the plate inbetween it and the TB tighten it down and just look around the FIV where it seals to the TB look at it should be flush together. youll want to reroute your coolant lines with the TB OFF the intake manifold so do this next either get a longer piece of hose to go directly from one point to the next or get something to join the two hoses together.... the pipe that was on the stock intake arm coolant lines will work. after you joined them together get some vacume caps and cap the two coolant inlet spots on the FIV,TB now just bolt everything back up reconnect your sensors and your done. i went ahead and zip tied the new coolant lines to hang down away from the TB and the sensors behind it. with the longer line and less in the middle it moves more easily and might want to rub against a sensor wire. let me know if you need anything else sorry i fdidnt take pictures.
edit: damn i typed alot...
Just for you Gennady
Terminology:
FIV - Fast idle valve
TB - Throttle Body
IM - Intake Manifold
anything else?
oh yeah when i said "sensors" i ment to say ALL THE EXPENSIVE PIECES OF CRAP that when they break like to make my car go... hu?
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 8:01 PM 9/30/2002]
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 8:06 PM 9/30/2002]
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happy for you that you soilved your idle problem... i'm still hunting mine down.. car is still poppin and shuddering at idle... guess i can fool people for now into thinking i have a cam... anyways i think its the air assist control solenoid
another thing.. what good does blocking off the egr do? and does this cause any idle problems ? i know it wont pass emissions w/o it..
****...my life...
my **** idle is back doing the same thing and this time you can see teh tach bouncing at 1200-1500 rmps
looks like all my idle sensors have decided to quit.
my **** idle is back doing the same thing and this time you can see teh tach bouncing at 1200-1500 rmps
looks like all my idle sensors have decided to quit.
i took the IAC valve off my car the two "screen" areas that mount to the IM appear to be heavily gunked what can i use to clean it?
from searching ive seen TB/Carb Cleaner. Imma remove the coolant lines from this while im at it.
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 2:46 PM 10/2/2002]
ahh kids who just got thier license become usefull now, there liek 3 16yr olds in the neighboorhood who just got licenses... EH YOU come here... go to the parts store get me carb cleaner.
oO and they work for free too.
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 3:03 PM 10/2/2002]
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 2:46 PM 10/2/2002]
ahh kids who just got thier license become usefull now, there liek 3 16yr olds in the neighboorhood who just got licenses... EH YOU come here... go to the parts store get me carb cleaner.
oO and they work for free too.
[Modified by ArchAngel Sabastian, 3:03 PM 10/2/2002]
i did the same thing.. i cleaned the FIV and IAC.. the two screens were clogged with gunk.. i just removed the whole assembly and cleaned with tb cleaner. it bounced for the first 20 miles or so then it all cleared up. i think this happened because there was still some residue or leftover cleaning solution in the FIV and IAC. maybe you just need to drive it for a little while like i did and see what happens.
i still have the rough idle problem but at least the loping idle went away. i replaced the air assist solenoid today and it still seems like i have that rough idle.. i'm gonna replace the fuel filter ( hard as a biatch to remove) and then if i have to, clean the injectors... troubleshooting sucks!!!
i still have the rough idle problem but at least the loping idle went away. i replaced the air assist solenoid today and it still seems like i have that rough idle.. i'm gonna replace the fuel filter ( hard as a biatch to remove) and then if i have to, clean the injectors... troubleshooting sucks!!!
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