anyone running the full tein setup with the damper controls in the car? just wanted to know how they feel and if they any better than koni yellows and skunk 2 coils....

 

are you serious?????? why wouldn't they be better???????
i rode in a dozen cars with teins they feel solid...
that's why i'm saving up for teins for my car...

 

I'd like to get to take a look at the Tien EFDC (EDFC? ABCD?) the electronically controlled dapening unit, that thing seems as if it could be very useful.

 

EDFC wont fit. the hood hits it.

(yes this is old by why not help someone out )

 

so I assume that the unit off of a civic could be used in the rear?

 

yeah you could use them in the rear. but what the point of just haveing them in the rear and not on all four corners?

 

stiffen up the rear a little more for waight transfer when at the street races, that way you dont have to drive around all night feeling like your in a nissan truck with airbags.

 

i have aluminum tein RA's with pillowball mounts.. they're pretty badass on the track..fun on the street.. great in the mountains... stiff as ****.. if i turn the dials halfway up in the rear and drive over any decent bump over 30 my rear tires get air... on the track i had my stock sway bars and no other braces and i had almost 0 body roll on setting 0front 0rear (the dials click 30 times even though tein advertises 16way adjustment)... when we turned it to 0front 5rear we would get nice oversteer around fast corners (on track).. the only bad part about the coilovers is that they arent compression/rebound adjustable independent .. also the EDFC isnt worth 300 bucks.. just extra weight and if youre too lazy to get out of your car and turn the *****.. then youre just a fat slob.. heres a picture.. you cant see them too well because we were paying more attention to my brake kit.. oh and the only bad thing about my teins..was that i had to wait ******* 6 months for gay *** tein to ship them over on a boat.. you would think that one of their dumbshit employees would put them in his suitcase and bring them over for me on a plane.. customer service is decent but lame over there.. they wont sell directly to anyone.. you have to go through one of their shitty dealers. so my friend got an account with them.. oh and to run the rear coilovers on a 90-91 civic you need 88-89 dx or integra type r rear lower control arms (same model number, different chassis number)

 

dang. nice and jealous setup

 

tell me more about the brake setup

 

more info on the RA's....what setting is optimum for street?

 

i'm also thinking about gettin teins because i figure they're only a little bit more expensive than what a decent set of coilovers and struts would cost. i also already have an 88 CRX Si, so i won't have to change the rear LCA's.

just wondering if they're worth that extra chash.

 

Depends on how you drive and what kind of streets you have.

Yes, they are worth the extra cash.

 

actually.. the RA's are almost too stiff of a strut for the street. so unless you want to bounce EVERYWHERE.. i wouldnt turn them up past 5 front/rear. on the freeway at high speeds they are awesome at like 5/5.. up in the mountains i go stiffer like 5/10.. but you can tell they were made for mild-almost professional track use.. almost completely eliminated body roll ... if i had a fast enough computer i would upload video.. but like i said before the only part that i was unhappy with about them was the wait.. and its too bad tein doesnt make the RE's for our model.. those sons of bitches EG and EK people get all the neat ****.. but if i had an EK i wouldnt buy tein's.. id buy either ohlins or cusco.

brakes: custom kit built from wilwood 4pot calipers, 12" wilwood rotors, wilwood polymatrix pads, fabricated earls stainless lines, and a custom hat that was machined from 2 pieces of aluminum, the outer part of the hat bolts to the wilwood rotor and has an integrated wheel spacer and lightening holes and the back is machined to fit the honda hub, the inner part of the hat is machined to fit inside my panasports.. the only shitty part was that we went with longer and thicker wheelstuds because panasport only makes one size lug hole and we didnt want any play... so we had to take the hubs off and drill them out .. and while they were off put in new wheel bearings.. also panasport doesnt make an off the shelf rim for hondas.. so we started with a blank 15" rim (yes.. 12" rotors fit underneath a 15" rim but its a BITCH), had it drilled 4x100 and machined the offset to +30... rear brakes are stock old shitty drums.. but it doesnt matter.. 90% of the braking is done up front. oh.. ill post pics later when i get them scanned but we also swapped in a wilwood master cylinder meant for a dodge viper.. we made the plate at home and it took like 10 minutes.. hardest part was finding a double flare tool to redo the fittings that go into the m.c. anyway.. it looks cool now but it took us about 4 months to measure everything and figure out how we were going to do it and to get everything machined, and remeasured and.. bullshit and trial and error and more bullshit.. but if anyone else is interested ill post a number for 'Dave Turner Motorsports' and price when i talk to dave and see how much he's willing to do the kits for.. and so you know.. my brakes have been on and working and track tested for about 6 months now and work perfectly.. almost too much brake for the car (**** anyone who says you need a rear brake swap. leave that **** stock unless youre a show homo) and here is the ugliest color youve ever seen on a honda... but i like it and dont give a **** if you guys only like gunmetal rims on white cars with carbon fiber hoods.. hee haw

 

so its kinda like the fast brake kit?

That car is so sweet. I would love to ride in it.

 

hey IMxWHITE, whats a double flare tool? what does it do? i know what a flaring tool does, but is a double flare tool different? im working on my friends car cuz he broke his fuel line, and we are trying to put it back together by a connector, and we're having the toughest time trying to flare the piping out.

thanks

 

My oh my I dig your ride! Very Bitchen setup, Sick man you are, to be able to fit those crazy stoppers inside those Superlites, my head is spinnin that those are even on your car Being you're from Diego ya ever run at Qualcom? Ya know your game well, Freaken AWESOME job Dude! .

 

actually the brake flaring tool and double flaring tool are the same.. its just called a double flare because it makes a double flare. if that makes any sense.. if you made a single flare it wouldnt seal correctly on the fitting.. if youre having a tough time flaring his piping make sure you have at leas an inch of straight pipe before you try to flare it and go buy a small pipe cutter.. its like 10 bucks at home depot so you start with a clean cut


and i rarely go down to qualcomm.. if i do its for autox not the drag racing

 

Teins aren't worth it unless you're a track ***** (track as in, road course) or an autocross ***** where you're looking for every tenth because you're doing it for MONEY/AWARDs.

Konis/GCs are a perfect for those who occasionally go to the track or autocross... it's even good for the drag strip.

The average person won't see the benefit of a full coilover system, mainly because they won't have a clue how to tune it and they are just covering up a driving issue.

 

buying new a GC/Koni setup will cost nearly as much as a setup like the tein.
$340 for GC's (stock rate with koni adaptors) + 440 for koni's (both prices from GC's website) is right at $800 with shipping
teins can be had around $900 if you look around. plus the benefit of tein is that the shock is valved specifically for the intended spring rather than GC/Koni where youre just slapping 2 off the shelf products together and hoping they work well
also with tein usa now open they are rebuildable as well without having to deal with shipping to japan (for most models)

 

I'm speaking to the more expensive setups... However, the threaded shock bodies aren't legal in some classes... but sleeved coilovers are.

But you get to pick and choose your spring rate...

this is definitely an improvement!

 

Teins are much better than Skunk2s...street or race

 

tein super streets (ss) is what im putting on my crx

 

i agree with most of what you said but... i love my teins on street and track (no drag racing) both.. but they are pretty rough and to most street cars they would be useless. also they dont make your car look 'cool' and slammed as they dont go too low.. mine are lowered about halfway and im MAYBE an inch under stock height... but tein does make decent full bodied coilovers like the 'flex' which i have heard are more suited weekend warrior types who have to drive their cars to work and school everyday.. havnt heard anything about the 'super street' line (except that they are really cheap... full coilovers for around 650-700 bucks).. the HA's i hear are a step closer to a track strut but not too stiff to have fun on the street

as for the koni/gc setup.. koni's are always one of the best struts for the money, i dont really care for the slip-on threaded sleeve myself(especially the skunk pos).. but they seem to work for a lot of people.. although for the same money i would feel safer with a threaded body strut

and as for the average people (im one of them).. it doesnt matter whether you have a million dollar suspension setup or a bone stock setup with blown struts and cut springs.. the only way youre going to learn how to drive/race better is to get out and drive/race (and try to win races in gran turismo without bouncing off walls and other cars).. of course the more you work on your car and realize how the different parts work and work together.. the more that factors into your driving and gives you confidence.. because the difference between driving to the store and racing for a JGTC team isnt skill.. its confidence in the car and yourself (maybe a little skill).. but the basics are still the same... brake turn gas.. brake turn gas.. brake turn gas..