After rebuilding my motor, I ended up replacing the head gasket because it was leaking. Nothing leaking out the sides but coolant was leaking into cylinders and my radiator was getting pressurized and the coolant was flowing into the overflow tank. So I went ahead and replaced the head gasket with a stock one. Everything seemed fine and then I ran it hard the other night to test out the car and make sure everything was fine and I started getting same symptoms. Radiator getting pressurized and coolant flowing into the overflow tank. I did a compression test and after I crank the engine and check the guage, I see the guage begin to drop pressure (Goes to 205 and slowly begins to drop off). I am using ARP head studs with moly lube and stock honda gasket with copper spray. Head was torqued down properly when it was replaced and gasket was installed correctly. Seems as if my head keeps lifting and it is leaking between the cylinders. When I replaced the gasket I noticed that some of the bolts were loose so I thought that was why coolant was leaking into the cylinders, but that should not have been the case this time because it was checked like 10 times before I reinstalled the cams and timing belt. Any ideas????? Is my head warped??? haven't pulled the head off yet, but I was looking for any ideas of what is going on..

I have a:
GEM b185c5 o-ringed and decked block, bored .020 over 81.5mm
JE 10.5:1 pistons with je rings
eagle rods
stock itr head (hasn't been milled or surfaced)
stock head gasket with copper spray
arp head studs torqued down in 3 steps to 65 ft-lbs (moly used)




[Modified by 00ITR #543, 10:27 AM 8/12/2002]

 

It's the o-rings in the block. If it's still possible, you should mill the block surface to remove the reciever grooves. Use a new stock head gasket and torque the head to stock+5. Install the gasket dry (no sprays).

Good luck


[Modified by B20C5 Turbo, 9:44 AM 8/12/2002]

 

Thanks,

Has anyone else with the GEM o-ringed block had this same problem? From talking with Vince from GEM, the o-ring helps to dissipate the heat from the tops of the cylinger walls and the sleeves are slightly raised to promote a good seal.

 

correct me if i am wrong... but i have never heard of raised cylinder walls promoting a good seal, seems as if it is working aginst you, everything i was ever taught(regardless of application) was the deck has to be flat

 

I've had the same problem using stock honda headgaskets on a sleeved and O-ringed block. There wasn't a problem with it for the first few hundred miles, but it eventually started leaking. After a while it got really bad and i finally pulled the head to replace the gasket. I've heard copper headgaskets work well with O-ringed blocks.

 

Same thing for the first few hundred it seems fine, but when I really got on it and boosted hard that's when the problem came back. Just wondering.. Are you running a GEM block also with the coper o-ring wire??


[Modified by 00ITR #543, 12:35 AM 8/14/2002]

 

I wouldn't worry about it dropping off -- get a new compression tester. Compression testers are just "peak" presure gauges. Remember, the intake and exhaust valves are constantly opening and closing... the gauge has an internal check valve that holds max pressure. You can unscrew the tester from the car and it will still read the same reading

 

A copper head gasket *MUST* be used in any o-ringed application where the head needs to be spaced apart from the block. Even then, the gasket must be thin enough (less than .050") that the o-ring distorts the head side contact surface of the gasket when torqued. If a very thick copper gasket is to be used, the head must also be machined with a reciever groove for proper sealing.

The original reason (think domestic) for using o-rings was to eliminate the gasket completely (high compression) allowing the head to sit directly on the block surface.

Now, ask yourself this: "Do I need an o-ringed block and/or head?" Unless you are making well over 750whp (ACTUAL), I believe the answer is no. Simply make sure the head and block surfaces are flat and use a stock gasket up to 15lbs of boost or a Cometic FI gasket beyond that. (I recommend the Cometic for peace of mind only. I have seen stock gaskets handle MUCH more than 15psi of boost)

Good luck.


[Modified by B20C5 Turbo, 12:32 AM 8/14/2002]

 

Figured out my guage was busted, because it has a one way valve like a tire pressure guage..

Thanks Dustin

 

Also, I am using ARP head studs and they are for the B18c1 (GSR). I was under the impression that those are the correct ones or should I be using the B16 studs??

 

I had the exact same problems that happened to you. What happened to me was a blown headgasket as well as some warpage near one of the blocks water jackets. Did you have the head and block checked to see if it was flat with no warpage? This could be your problem...

 

I don't think that there are any problems with the block. The head may be warped, but I will find out when I take it apart again. I really do not want to disassemble the block and send it out to get the o-ring milled out.

I am thinking of going with a Cometic HP .036" head gasket. Will this work correctly with a GE copper o-ring wire block that is bored .020 over (81.5mm). May be a dumb question but do I get the hp one and do I order the 81mm (stock bore) one or the 81.mm one (.020 over)??? I have heard that it may have trouble sealing with because of the o-ring.

Any ideas???

 

take your block to a local machine shop and have the deck of the block and head checked.

 

Warpage would be my guess....

 

Warpage is a stong possibility, but if the head was warped it would most likely leak all over the place and not just between the cylinders. The leak is small and bar's leak can actually seal it for a short period of time. The sleeves are iron and the car has not been run hard at all so I don't think that the one of the sleeves are warped. Worst case scenario I will pull the block out again, but not looking forward to pulling thewhole engine out again. I will check have the head checked when i get it apart.

Anyone know about the hp cometic and GE o-ringed block question????

 

Check your e-mail.

 

did you replace the copper o-rings in the sleeve when you changed your headgasket? you have to replace the wire each time you take off the head.

 

checked email nothing

 

Didn't replace the copper o-ring. Vince from GEM told me to only replace if damaged..