I did a search but didn't come up with anything good. I'm trying to lower my car, but the rear bolts won't come off! I'm using an air gun but no use. I've read something about an impact gun. What is it and how does it work. If all else fails, what should I do? Purchase a new LCA? Thanks.

 

you should try using something like PB blaster or a rust solvent. the LCA bolts are a real pain if they are frozen. using an impact gun would help, but i think you are using one if youre using air gun it's prob an impact gun. impact guns use force not only to turn the bolt but they also apply a impact to the bolt to try and break or vibrate it loose. not sure if that's the best description, but i hope it helped. another thing you can try is to cut the lca bolt with a saw, a sawsall will work well but you need to replace the LCA bolts. just a thought.
-Scary

 

Which LCA bolt are you talking about..?.. The one underneath the strut?

 

Use the PB stuff, Kragen carries it. It works like magic I tell ya!

 

it sure does, i used some on another bolt that was hopelessly frozen. try to soak the bolt really well with the PB, give it a chance to work then try with the impact gun.
-Scary

 

i broke mine! oops.

 

try some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster... I've been able to get out all the suspensions/spring shock install bolts I've done using this stuff and a breaker bar and socket (hand tools)...

 

welcome to honda suspension they are all like that

 

Hey thanks guys. So where can I find this stuff? At any local auto shops possibly?

Also, if for some reason I broke the bolt, how much would it cost to replace or could I just find a generic replace someplace? Thanks!!


[Modified by Integra_Nguyen, 11:09 AM 7/23/2002]

 

I had to cut the head of the bolt off carfully with a small wheel cutter, then use a torch and hack saw to cut a line in the remaining bolt end and screw it out. I had to do 5, took me about 5 hrs. Can be a very frustrating job

 

alright went thru the same thing on my teg.. ended up we cut the old shocks off the lca's and took them to a machine shop to have the old bolts pressed out. After that got new bolts from honda and everthing went back together fine.

 

Ok, I have a picture with circles indicating trouble bolts.

if it doesn't show, here's the link
http://www.geocities.com/hondatech69/bolts.jpg

With PB Blaster and stuff, is it just a spray and let soak or what? THanks

grrr, pics don't show. Well, on the rear, driver's side, it's the bolt that's underneat the strut and also one to the left of it.


[Modified by Integra_Nguyen, 12:15 PM 7/23/2002]

 

I had this problem with mine only nine months after upgrading my shocks. I was swapping in heavier spings and the bolts were frozen in the bushing in the LCA. Trying to "force it" resulted in the bushing binding and sheering the bolt of in the bushing. I called in a favor and had the built in nuts on the konis ground off and the bolts banged out. really sucket... Anti-Seize compund every time.... always...

 

Integra Nguyen: yeah you can buy PB Plaster or Liquid Wrench at any of the auto part stores.. I bought mine from Autozone.. I think Pep boys has it on sale this week also (at least in CA)... you spray it on and let it soak for like 10 mins.. then spray on some more and let it soak again.. then try getting the bolt off....

danm things look pretty rusted Lolz..

use some anti-seize compound/tube when you put the bolts back...

 

Try holding a big-*** hammer (sledge) against the head on one side and whacking the crap out of the other side with another big-*** hammer (ball peen or such). Hit it very hard once or twice, not a lot of little hits. Hopefully this will jar the bolt loose. After you get it apart, ANTI-SIEZE!! Good luck!

 

I went through this crap on Sunday trying to put my bilstein's and H&R's in. Took my car to my friends shop with an impact gun. That didn't work. Tried to drill that bolt out, started for 5 minutes, bit wasn't going any where at all. Didn't want to cut it because the bushing looked really chewed up already from previous attempts so we gave up. I just ordered a new pair of LCA's yesterday. Waiting for them to arrive. $137. Goood luck man

 

makes me reconsider whether i want to attempt doing the suspension myself.

 

when mine broke off, we ended up (very carefully) sawing through the bolt near the bushing, then we took the whole LCA off and whacked that **** out and then grinded down the bushing where it got a little abused till it looked good again. Works fine now!

 

Eeek i just did mine a month ago and it was a bitch the bolts broke i had to replace the one control arm and another arm on the top
******* cost me 250 in parts. Anyways they are ceased up and you are going to have to staturate them in a good lub if that dont work then force the mother ****** with a torque wrench and hope it dont break. If it breaks you will have to do the bushings or replace the whole arm.

 

Another idea, is you might wanna put a propane torch on there to heat up the bolt. Get things to expand, and then contract. That will help bolts come out as well. Let it soak for a couple days....

 

Here's a question.. Are you putting in new shocks along with the springs??? Because if you're just putting springs in, I know what to do..

 

Yes, I am just putting in new springs, not shocks. I don't think I'm getting shocks for awhile. Eiback pro-kit is what I'm wanting to install. So what's your way of doing it?

Also, 4doorLS, where did you order your LCA's from? $137 sounds like a pretty decent deal that I'm willing to spend. Would it be hard to install these? Thank you all!

 

Honestly...

With an Impact wrench, lots of penetrating oil, and the propane torch (available at any hardware store) There should be no reason why you can't get those bolts out. Even with out the impact. Oil, heat, Oil, heat, smack it with a hammer to break all that crap loose in the threads... you should be able to get the bolts out. The last bolt I had to cut out was in a '66 Vette which had been used to tow boats (don't ask) It had been in for 20 years. I've taken bolts out of Integra/Civic rear ends that were 8 years old using the above method.

Patience and diligence... Oh, and a good 6 point socket... Don't use a 12 point socket....

 

So you're just putting in new springs.. Well then here's how to do it. It's something I learned from my mechanic, but it only works for the rear. You might need an impact gun and torch for this but here goes. Just jack up the car and take off your tire. Next, remove the two bolts that are used for your rear camber. Not too sure what the piece is called. It's just the two bolts that you can add washers on to correct your camber. Now pop up your hatch or trunk and pop open the lid that covers your shocks. Now free up the shock by taking the nuts off of it. Next, I don't remember too well but, you need to (how do you say) compress the shock by using the impact gun. I think you want to set the gun to tighten, not sure. But after that, all you have to do is just bend the arm down as hard and far as you can to remove the shock from its housing. Don't worry about breaking it, I had to jump on it a couple of times to get down far enough.. Next you'll need to cut your rear springs to take them off the shock, unless you've got clamps lying around and are able to clamp it down. After that, putting in your aftermarket springs should be easy. But you have to remember that I am in no way responsible for anything that happens to your car. And plus, I did have my mechanic help me with this. It's a good thing he's family. This is the "GhettO-my bolts are stuck"-way" of putting on new springs. You can do this to save some money, or just buy a new lower control arm. It's up to you. Let me know if you need more details on this.

 

I've had the suspension in and out of my teg about 5 times over the years

Been there done that, I twisted off those bolts actually. Have you or the previous owner ever replaced or had the shocks out? If so, you are learning the hard way that you must soak those particular bolts in anti-seize prior to reinstallation. I didn't the first time and experienced the hassel you are having now.

What happens usually is the bolt seizes inside the metal bushing in the rubber gromet of the control arm. Its weird, but you will be able to twist the bolt inside the rubber so far and it will snap back, (this is assuming it is broken loose from the strut nut.

My solution was to remove the control arm, bench press (or melt w/ a map gas torch) out the rubber from the CA and replace with a poly bushing kit. No biggie for me as I was going to do the entire car in poly anyway. However Energy suspension does sell just a control arm kit to address your need.

Good luck and remember to be liberal on those bolts with anti-seize. Put it on the threads and the shaft (of the bolt).