I mounted my bar, as per instructions. and the extra little mounts are off like a 1/4" diagonally. Anybody else with this problem.

And based on how the suspension arm would move forward under acceleration, I don't exactly want to round out those holes until it happened to fit.

Yes. I did email ETD, and got the "thanks for emailing, we'll get right back to you" auto respond note... and no response from a week ago.

This bar.
http://www.etdracing.com/8891.html

Here's the mount.

 

they suppose to line up. maybe your frame is bent slightly?

 

yer almost there

just use a little elbow grease

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xsirenax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yer almost there

just use a little elbow grease</TD></TR></TABLE>

...lol... it's over 1/4". Ain't no amount of elbow grease gonna flex that up and back that far.

The front of the bar is where it's going to be, 6 tightly fitting bolts have removed any slop, even before they were tightened. The bar is largely done moving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRmafia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they suppose to line up. maybe your frame is bent slightly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah. Both sides are equal. for this to be off 1/4" in 2 directions, you'd see it if it was bent.

 

could they gave you the kit? it could be a da kit?

 

The brackets supplied with the kit were designed around the 88-89 chassis and I'm gonna bet your car is a 90-91. I had the same problem when installing my etd bar so I had to modify the brackets to fit. I talked with John and last week or so and they are gonna use my car for making new brackets so for now you can modify the ones you have to work on your chassis. Like so..
Cut the area that mounts to the bar with a grinder.


Done.

 

that may work...but that slot makes me uneasy. i would tack weld it or something to make sure nothing moves

 

i have a 1988 crx and it was hard to line up the etd bar but my car was recently straightend so i figured it was out a bit . i told my buddy nothing ever fits right anyway unless its oem honda . i made it work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that may work...but that slot makes me uneasy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't like the slot either. The nature of the wheel getting traction is pushing forward on that mount, trying to slide it.

I might make another mount. The idea of the mount is sound. The one supplied is not going to work.

Car is an 89. Also, if there is an issue with 90-91 being different, then the description shouldn't read for 89-91.


Modified by vectorsolid at 2:19 PM 7/30/2008

 

consider the full race bar...i couldn't be happier with mine after 2 years of use and abuse

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't like the slot either. The nature of the wheel getting traction is pushing forward on that mount, trying to slide it.

Modified by vectorsolid at 2:19 PM 7/30/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

The mount will not move at all no matter how much power you make. Keep in mind there are 6 other mounting spots on the chassis. There is no way in hell the lca's are going to move the bar after being mounted 8 times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">consider the full race bar...i couldn't be happier with mine after 2 years of use and abuse</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont really think thats an option sense he already purchased the bar.


Anyways, I just recently ran into the same problem when I installed my etd bars this weekend. My solution was loosening the bolt, that bolts down to the chassis. Then that gave me enough play to install the bolt from the bracket to the bar. Then I gradually tight both bolts down (alternating between both bolts), slightly stretching the bracket. The bracket molded to the shaped need to secure the traction bars down. Hopefully this works for you since it worked for me.


(I might add that my holes were off about the same amount as yours )

 

So it seems most people with that bar have the same problem with an inaccurate mount?

 

i thought he said he might return the bar...that's only why i mentioned full race. i would also have suggested loosening all the bolts until you get that one started. that's standard assembly procedure for most things, along with the ol BFH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i would also have suggested loosening all the bolts until you get that one started. that's standard assembly procedure for most things</TD></TR></TABLE>

&lt;--- takes note not to shop where zrickety does. ...lol... Just messin with ya.

The bolts you'd have to loose are in a shear to the one that's short. They'd have to slide over 1/4".... There was no wiggle when I finally got all 6 on the frame in place.

The only way it would be close, would be if there were 3/8 bolts in 3/4" holes. And that's no way to have your front suspension located.

 

Never did hear from ETD. Even mentioned to them there was this thread here.

Anywho, I whipped up my own brackets. Pefect fit, no slop, no wiggle, no error, no bending.. I'm much happier, and feel safer.

 

Nice job on the fix

 

you should email etd the link to this thread. maybe they will fix, or maybe have you send those brackets you made to them so they can get this all cleared up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by efsublime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should email etd the link to this thread. maybe they will fix, or maybe have you send those brackets you made to them so they can get this all cleared up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did. Over a week ago. I suppose they're busy. I've emailed twice with no response.

 

I had that problem as well, but i was able to loosen up the tow-hook mounts to get the bottom bracket to work.

Your new brackets look pretty good. Nice work.

 

When did ETD start using those brackets??

My bar bolts directly to the chasis and sits up high. Has not scraped once!

Is that the newer design?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is that the newer design?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Beats me... Just got it though, and directly from ETD. so I suspect it's about as current as it gets.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I mounted my bar, as per instructions. and the extra little mounts are off like a 1/4" diagonally. Anybody else with this problem.

And based on how the suspension arm would move forward under acceleration, I don't exactly want to round out those holes until it happened to fit.

Yes. I did email ETD, and got the "thanks for emailing, we'll get right back to you" auto respond note... and no response from a week ago.

This bar.
http://www.etdracing.com/8891.html

Here's the mount.

</TD></TR></TABLE>dude, that looked like an easy fix! you should have just bolted the radius arms on and tightened them with the three chassis bolts (tow hook bolts) loose, the play in the bolts would have brung the bar closer to the LCA and therefore closed the gap! just a suggestion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I CRX I &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, that looked like an easy fix! you should have just bolted the radius arms on and tightened them with the three chassis bolts (tow hook bolts) loose, the play in the bolts would have brung the bar closer to the LCA and therefore closed the gap! just a suggestion. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You feel that tightening the radius arm would have pulled that back? ...lol... The LCA is rubber mounted on only a single point. I don't know that it's possible to tighten that LCA enough to generate the bending forces necessary to pull it into alignment. The LCA only has one mounting point on the chassis, the other mounting point "IS" the radius arm. Then there's the little matter of pushing it up... you can move the LCA forward and back, several inches... by hand.

You understand that you're looking at over a 1/4" gap on the bolt right? In order for that to even remotely work, ETD would have had to intentionally drill all the mounting holes on the bar over 1/4" to big in diameter. 1/2" bolt? let's put it in a 3/4" hole.

The bar would would have to be up .3" and back .3 on the bolts. And have enough slop to come up those amounts just to be a "tight fit, requiring elbow grease. Sorry man, once you get all 6 screws in, it's pretty much "located" where it is.


Modified by vectorsolid at 9:16 PM 8/6/2008