Skunk2 Throttle cable bracket part2.... pic intensive
Well, I had a pretty productive weekend! After moving all of my engines and other crap to a new storage loaction within the shop I found some extra stainless steel while throwing junk away.
Old Skunk2 throttle cable ghetto adapter
advantages:
I didn't need to buy/locate an ITR or Civic cable and bracket.
Parts were from my scrap pile of junk.
Build time was less than 30 minutes.
I got to keep my GSR throttle cable.
disadvantages:
That ugly cable angle should be obvious.
Cable hit the bottom of the Cusco tower bar.
Would not clear the Carbing bar because it was too high (pic is below).
New and Impoved Jerk Racing Skunk2 throttle cable adapter for GSR

advantages:
Clears all tower bars because of it's low stance.
There are no funky cable angles because of the low stance.
Made from srcap parts ...$0
Got to keep my GSR throttle cable
disadvantages:
Stainless steel plate broke a damn good drill bit
Welding was required. ( $0 since friend with a MIG hooked me up
)
Two small beads were added to the backside to prevent the nut from slipping out and the aluminum spacer was used to solve a clearance problem!

Jerk Racing adapter and Mangled OEM Bracket
Jerk Racing adapter and Mangled OEM Bracket
Jerk Racing adapter and Mangled OEM Bracket
Jerk Racing = a bunch of American fools living in Japan
Old Skunk2 throttle cable ghetto adapter
advantages:
I didn't need to buy/locate an ITR or Civic cable and bracket.
Parts were from my scrap pile of junk.
Build time was less than 30 minutes.
I got to keep my GSR throttle cable.
disadvantages:
That ugly cable angle should be obvious.
Cable hit the bottom of the Cusco tower bar.
Would not clear the Carbing bar because it was too high (pic is below).
New and Impoved Jerk Racing Skunk2 throttle cable adapter for GSR
advantages:
Clears all tower bars because of it's low stance.
There are no funky cable angles because of the low stance.
Made from srcap parts ...$0
Got to keep my GSR throttle cable
disadvantages:
Stainless steel plate broke a damn good drill bit
Welding was required. ( $0 since friend with a MIG hooked me up
) Two small beads were added to the backside to prevent the nut from slipping out and the aluminum spacer was used to solve a clearance problem!
Jerk Racing adapter and Mangled OEM Bracket
Jerk Racing adapter and Mangled OEM Bracket
Jerk Racing adapter and Mangled OEM Bracket
Jerk Racing = a bunch of American fools living in Japan
FPR, AVC-R pressure sensor, Defi boost sensor and Stereo circuit breaker had to be reloacted to install the Carbing bar.
An aluminum plate was slipped between the tower bar and firewall to mount the sensor and circuit breaker while the FPR was moved to the fuel rail. I need to relocatethe FPR because this loaction isn't to my liking.
The FPR and AVC-R sensor were mounted to two bolt holes on the firewall and the Defi sensor was located above the battery.
New Location: Sensors are on the bottom of the plate.
[Modified by Dee, 8:13 AM 7/21/2002]
An aluminum plate was slipped between the tower bar and firewall to mount the sensor and circuit breaker while the FPR was moved to the fuel rail. I need to relocatethe FPR because this loaction isn't to my liking.
The FPR and AVC-R sensor were mounted to two bolt holes on the firewall and the Defi sensor was located above the battery.
New Location: Sensors are on the bottom of the plate.
[Modified by Dee, 8:13 AM 7/21/2002]
Very nice. What did you do to paint your valve cover? It looks great! Exactly waht I want to do since mine is chipping. Did you prime first? What color is that? Thanks.
The valve cover was another one my "I'm bored" projects. The spray I used is called "Wilsons" and everything is acrylic based. The color is Honda Capa (Honda K van) OEM Blue metallic Pearl. I also used Wilson's white primer and clear coat. 6 very thin coats of primer, 6 very thin coats or blue pear, 6 very thin coats of clear. 15 minutes dry time between coats and I also used a hair dryer to speed the process. These cans are very small.. about half the size of a normal spray can. I'll post a pic of the cans later.
I did the same thing sort of, but used the orignial throttle cable bracket, cut a triangle piece out of it, bent it and welded it up.
Brad
Brad
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Hey what kind of 3 point strut tower brace is that and where did you get it? I want one!!
That is the Carbing bar. Leo (ITRinEJ1) was hosting a group buy on them, but I just did a search and the buy is over.
WOW, that is a nice piece a fabrication for the throttle cable. How long did it take to make it, just curious if it would have been worth my time to do that rather than spend $20 to do it the way I did it.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,938
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
hey is that an Optima battery or the same size as one? I was wondering because there was no way my old red top would fit in the stock location on my car (LHD, battery on right side). Is there more room for the battery on RHD cars?
You have to trim the excess plastic off the bottom of the battery and then it drops in with no problem.
You have to trim the excess plastic off the bottom of the battery and then it drops in with no problem.
I was supposed to repost pics for somebody but I forgot.
Here's my cable bracket that is made from spare metal that was wasting away on shop bench
:



Here's a pic of the "jury rigged" adapter that I used for a couple days. Notice the really nasty angle. Without the two pieces of aluminum the OEM throttle bracket would rub the tower bar.

Modified by Dee at 6:24 PM 1/8/2007
Here's my cable bracket that is made from spare metal that was wasting away on shop bench
:


Here's a pic of the "jury rigged" adapter that I used for a couple days. Notice the really nasty angle. Without the two pieces of aluminum the OEM throttle bracket would rub the tower bar.

Modified by Dee at 6:24 PM 1/8/2007
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