im using a blox 70mm throttle body with a blox intake manifold my question is the opening on the manifold is only 64mm will the step down from 70 to 64 hurt me at all?

 

noone? someone has to know about this?

 

Do you even need a 70 for your build, whatever it is since you neglected to post it. It's kind of common sense though really, if you need/want to use that 70, match the openings. Good Luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you even need a 70 for your build, whatever it is since you neglected to post it. It's kind of common sense though really, if you need/want to use that 70, match the openings. Good Luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

its a b18a1 bored to 81.50,b18b1 exospeed stage 3 race head, port and polished, supertech valvesprings and titanium retainers, stainless steel swirl polished valves, brian crower stage 2 cams, weisco 11.4:1 pistons, eagle rods, golden eagle block guard,blox intake manifold, golden eagle fuel rail, precision 310cc injectors,short ram intake w/ velocity stack, jdm 4-1 header w/ 2.5" collector,b16 tranny. it will be dyno tuned soon and im running a 100shot on it also.

 

70mm isnt going to hurt, but wouldnt have been my choice on that build.
However it is already purchased so it is what it is.

Moving on the question at hand. Basically you have a 6mm wall that the incoming air is going to hit as it rushes through the throttle plate.
That will never be good.

Port that mo fo out . . .

 

it being already purchased is no problem i really wasnt looking to port the manifold, thats why im trying to figure out what size would be best for my build? im willing to buy a new one if i have to. the guy that helped me build my mototr said that the 6mm difference wouldnt hurt me, that is why im trying to get some other opinions

 

why dont you want to portmatch the manifold? Its not really hard to do. I did mine myself.

What are you going to do , run a 64mm throttlebody?

Everything isnt always easy my friend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bertsb18hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the guy that helped me build my mototr said that the 6mm difference wouldnt hurt me, that is why im trying to get some other opinions</TD></TR></TABLE>


i hope your friend doesn't do anything performance related on anyone's car.

 

Running a 100 shot how? DP, Dry w/Hondata style, single nozzle before TB?

You need to match it regardless though. Easy to do.

 

its a zex dry single nozzle 75shot as of the moment when we go to dyno tune ill be upgrading to 100

 

This is a typical HT thread.

1. Ask a question

2. Receive several answers - none of which you "like" but are still correct.

3. State reasons why you dont want to hear them.

4. Ask for more opinions until someone regurgitates what you want to hear.

 

In that case, I would re-think more then your TB.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a typical HT thread.

1. Ask a question

2. Receive several answers - none of which you "like" but are still correct.

3. State reasons why you dont want to hear them.

4. Ask for more opinions until someone regurgitates what you want to hear. </TD></TR></TABLE>haha lol. so true on the many levels of honda-tech history.

another answer to the thread starter...

mark the over laps with a marker of some sort(sharpee, etc) and go at it with your carbide cutter.

 

I m using 70mm Blox TB..with ported ITR manifold.Opening on the manifold is 68mm.
b20vtec with stage2 cams ported polised head and 12:8:1CR..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bertsb18hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a zex dry single nozzle 75shot as of the moment when we go to dyno tune ill be upgrading to 100</TD></TR></TABLE>

doing this using a dry system isn't the best idea.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2RR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I m using 70mm Blox TB..with ported ITR manifold.Opening on the manifold is 68mm.
b20vtec with stage2 cams ported polised head and 12:8:1CR..
</TD></TR></TABLE>


If everyone does something wrong, does that somehow make it right?

 

Is there a particular reason that people these days seem to be snatching up Ridiculously oversized TB's like crazy....

Honestly, did I miss the memo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
doing this using a dry system isn't the best idea.
?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not sure I can agree with you at all there on such a blanket statement.

Dry systems are fine when using separate maps within a tuner of choice supplying fuel with injectors on a direct port dry setup. Its a tunable system unlike using one jet over a complete RPM range, look at an AF graph and tell me it makes sense in this day and age of software we use. Using a junk dry setup, like any kind that asks you to shim regulator diaphrams or use .070 bypass jets spiking pressure to 90psi, isn't a good idea period. You can and will run into delivery problems. Single nozzles in general (wet or Dry) with anything over a .042(75) nitrous jet will eventually fail you quickly in a small manifold with only 4 places to go. Theres not a chance in hell you are getting equal distribution into each runner. Which means eventually you will get an over-abundance into one and hopefully it can sustain the run. Placemet of the nozzle is also critical and different in every car which is why wet nozzles are not practical on some manifold setups, you get fuel puddles within the intake.

Nitrous gets a bad name because its easy for people to get greedy and abuse it. Its also cheap which means it can be a standard add in for anyone.

-Jamie

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am not sure I can agree with you at all there on such a blanket statement.
</TD></TR></TABLE>



....um, I don't recall making a "blanket" statement at all. If you look at my post above, you can clearly see that I was directing my statement at his intention to run a 100 hp dry shot on his motor.

If you look at my build info in my sig, you'll notice that I also run nitrous on my car and have a fair amount of experience in using and tuning it.

What you wrote sounded great except for the fact that most people do not run their nitrous (basic street use) systems through any type of management system, including the OP. Again this is why I directed my comment specifically towards him. It can be done safely and effectively though as long as you keep your power settings within reason.