Like the topic says, lets see either graphs from the dyno or at post numbers. Non-vtec only please. Also, post all mods.

Even thought I know my own, I'll post mine too (this is at 6psi and 9psi):



[Modified by 00SilverLS, 1:03 AM 7/19/2002]


[Modified by 00SilverLS, 12:01 AM 7/21/2002]

 

Sorry I dont have any pics of mine, but this is what I do have. A small vid of me on the dyno with the results at the end.
This is at 7psi and leaning out like a **** along with a leak at the fuel rail and loosing fuel pressure under boost. Also the hondata is untuned and through the exhaust.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/turboc.../dansdyno1.avi
Setup:
94' LS B18B1. Stock bottom end, stock top end with exception of my own port job on the exhaust side.
Hondata 3b
RC 550's
T3/To4e .63 stage3 exhaust / 57 trim compressor wheel / 60 A/R housing
Tial 35mm
Maxrev log manny, mawrev 2.5" downpipe
2.25" mandrel exhaust, Apex Dunk can, test pipe
Custom fuel system
Walbro intank (not installed during the dyno video)

Think thats it. I know I could put more down if the hondata was tuned, if I had the correct fuel pressure, and if I ran a 3" exhaust.

 

Thats a pretty good basemap then...that 2.25'' exhaust is killing you.

 

250 whp and 195 ft lbs on 7 psi. I have a paper copy of a 247 whp and 194 ft lbs and I have some emails of 230 plus hp runs. I just don't know how to host the emails, nor do I have the software at work. I don't have a scanner to copy the paper dyno. I'd be glad to fax it to someone or email them to help me out. What's your reason behind this post? Later Allen

Oh yeah forgot to add that this was only spinning the engine up to 6800-6900 rpms. I didn't push it past that since I was having issues/spikes that I couldn't figure out. Look like detenation, but didn't have visible signs, so I just moved my 3 bar to a different location in the engine bay and replaced my MSD to see if that was the problem.


[Modified by abraunb16, 9:02 AM 7/19/2002]

 

abraunb16....sent you an IM.


I want to see these dynos to see what kind of mods make what changes to LS powerband. I dont like how it just dies off up top.

What did you do to your engine to get 195 at 7 and keep it till redline?

 

Well I hope you got the fax, like I stated that was only to 6800 rpms, so I have a little more to push. Tuning is the key to making power, though. Later Allen

 

i dont have a dyno graph with my new motor but last year i made 430 whp and the new one is way faster. You must do headwork on an Ls if you want to get anywhere. Also get rid of the stock manifold and youll free up a ton of power. Remember the LS block is better for turbo than the GSR its the head on it that holds the LS back.

 

thats pretty good. whats your setup?

 

Here are my dyno runs:

The top end falling off is my J&S pulling all my timing out, never figured out why it kept detonating at exactly 6.5k. Tried race gas, pulling timing, etc., anyways...

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4292266355&idx=1

The first run is the b16 currently.

 

 

nuff said!


Rob

 

i made 192/172 on 6.5 psi. this is the drag kit w/ 35mm tial and 3" thermal. we started playing with a manual boost controller i had and when i dynoed at 10 psi i made 230 whp, not too sure about trq...

oh yeah, and my timing is retarded 8 degrees.

 

What kind of setup is this?

 

TD04 turbo
Dealtagate wastegate
Cartech FMU
stock internals
6psi
208whp and 180ft. lbs

 

Drag Generation 3 Turbo Kit @ 10 psi
Hondata Engine Management Stage 3b
Quaife LSD
Clutchnet Stage 2 Clutch
Custom 3” Exhaust (had a 2.25" muffler at time of dyno)
RC 440cc Fuel Injectors
Golden Eagle Ductile Iron Sleeves
JE 9:1 Pistons 84 mm bore
Eagle Rods
Crower Cams #62402
Crower Valve Springs and Retainers
VTEC Oil pump
Moroso 5 QT Oil pan and pickup
91 Octane

*edit* I don't own this car anymore, this setup was in a 95 DX Coupe




[Modified by xThexHeadx, 8:34 PM 7/20/2002]

 

its looking like all ls's w/ stock head and intake manifold take that torque drop at the top.

thats why i'm looking for a skunk2 manifold now.

 

+The head isnt designed to flow past 6500 rpms...

 

my torque didn't drop off at the top.

 

Why dont you ever give you setup out? I remember another time that someone asked you for it and you never gave it out.
Kinda f'd up. Why dont you let the rest of us know what is working for you?

 

your graph only goes to stock redline, 6800

but props for the fat torque line youve got going in your set up

 

why am i begining to feel that I made less than average w/ my car? (my plot is in the first post)

 

I think you did a little bit. There are some factors that could have made your numbers a little lower. Was it a hot day? Did they use a high powered fan against your FMIC? Every car reponds a little differently, but personally I think a full 3" exhaust, larger injectors and standalone will improve your numbers a LOT.

Here's mine. I thought mine was kind of low actually. 213 whp and 197 ftlbs torque at 9 psi - 2.25" exhaust, revhard kit (but drag trim turbo), air filter over the compressor, everything else stock.

 

I have a full 3" exhaust w/ closed dumptube but it is reconnected right after the cat (dont ask why after)

And about my fuel, I ran a perfect 12.3ish across the board w/ around 11.7ish from 4.5-5.5 for safety. I also run stock timing.

It was a hot and humid day, as you can see from the sheet, 93 deg - but he said that it was SAE corrected. Doesn't that mean that the temp doesn't matter? They did have a giant fan blowing....dunno if that really emulates real driving, but thats what they all use

The only things that seem different about my setup is a T04B/T3 instead of the E and the MF2 instead of the usual FMU, but fuel is fuel. If I have a good A/F curve, it shouldn't matter how the fuel is delivered, right? Damn, this is really getting me bummed

 

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Probably be better off shifting at 7k. Drop you right into that peak torque area.

 

Yeah, I think I had the shift light at 7200 when I owned the car.