ok ive searched and havent come up with a answer to my question

i heard that people have used the skunk2 pro1 in turbo application and got great results.
can any one comfirm this

are blox b cams the same as skunk 2 pro1
can any one comfirm this

and if so are they the compation series cam or the tuner series cam.

ive looked at the blox turbo cam but it look pritty small.

i have a 1940cc b16a
je pistons
eagle stroker
darton sleeves

i have a newly ported head witch is getting a full set of blox valves and springs etc.
just trying to decide on the cams ???

can any one help

thanks

 

No, the blox cams are not the same as the Skunk2 ones. Each has different liftings and durations. 2nd, as far I heard the blox might not be kind to your rockers.

The SK2 have been tested and proven with turbo setup with dyno results. Stick to it unless you want to be the 1st to test the blox and let us know the result.

 

definitely go with the skunk2 pro 1 tested by jeff evans and works

 

blox b do not = skunk2 pro1's
blox b I though were = to a skunk2 cam I forgot which one though.

Tuner and compition are the same except the competition have a wider primary and secondary (tuner = stock width)

 

For those using the skunk pro1, are you degreeing the cam when installing? How can you do this with the motor in the car? I've only seen it done with the engine on a stand.

 

^Thats what i thought. only on a stand

 

hay sorry for the noob question but what it diling in the cam. it that with the cam gears taking the over lap out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by champLSinteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For those using the skunk pro1, are you degreeing the cam when installing? How can you do this with the motor in the car? I've only seen it done with the engine on a stand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can do it in the car if your degree wheel is small enough. Definetly less of a back breaker on an engine stand.

 

skunk2 pro1
T1 tested them https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2009058
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2305578

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm inc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">skunk2 pro1
T1 tested them https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2009058
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2305578</TD></TR></TABLE>

These results were on race cars do we have any street friendly setup running these cams?

 

The skunk2 tuner series stage 1 cams work really really well. They are a bit bigger than the itr/ctr, make about 20-30whp more, are easy on the valve train/rockers (which alot of people dont take into consideration) and have stock idle/drivability and usually require no cam gear adjustments (as long as block/head have not been milled severely). The stage 1s seem to work well with turbos as small as the gt28rs and larger (just used them on a s372 and picked up ridiculous power over gsr's)

The skunk2 tuner series stage 2 cams work well from the two cars that i have used them on. Picked up 70whp over itr/ctr cams at higher boost levels. Are a bit harder on valvetrain/rocker wear, have stock idle and drivability. I would not run these for anything less than a gt35r sized turbo.

The skunk2 pro 1 cams are great. They need to be degreed in to idle/work properly. These cams usually pick up a little more midrange than the tuner series in boost (i.e make the turbo spool a little sooner). The idle/drivabilty is a bit harsher than stock, but once degreed and tuned its not that bad. Valvetrain wear is not bad with them either. I have seen gains of 40-50whp over itr/ctr cams with them. The pro 1s seem to work well in gt35r + sized turbos.

The skunk2 pro 2 cams are I feel too large for a turbo application. I have tested them on gt42r/s372 sized turbos and lost power over the itr/ctr cams. There was significant midrange gains with them compared to the itr/ctr cams, but there was about 60-70 whp peak power loss. The cams were degreed into the engines properly.

When picking a cam, think about valvetrain wear and seat pressure. Alot of the aftermarket springs do not have the seat pressure to run a higher lift all motor cam, as well as 20-40 psi of boost pressure. Also, the biggest cam does not always work. Its a compromise. I have been using skunk2 products for awhile now, and I would not even think about using another companies cams for the b or h series engines. The reliability, durability and power are awesome.

 

just ordered some Pro1's the other day for my setup...
Im currently making 440whp on pump and 493 on race gas with my 35R with the GSR cams

not sure about degreeing these new ones.. what all is involved with it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The stage 1s seem to work well with turbos as small as the gt28rs and larger (just used them on a s372 and picked up ridiculous power over gsr's) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you mind posting that dyno?

 

great information boosted hybrid!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not sure about degreeing these new ones.. what all is involved with it</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am wondering the same thing. What is the purpose of it? What is the difference as opposed to lining the gears up to the notches on the timing cover?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chubz0r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am wondering the same thing. What is the purpose of it? What is the difference as opposed to lining the gears up to the notches on the timing cover?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I could be wrong, but I thought that as long as you had adjustable cam gears, set at 0, you could install the pro 1 cams in like stock, and then upon tuning, you adjust the cam gears to correct the timing and make the optimum power? Someone please clarify if I'm wrong. Every large aftermarket cam I've installed I've done this way since I've had adjustable cam gears.

So whats the mass consensus then on the best Skunk 2 cams to go with for power, assuming your valve train is strong enough to handle the added lift?

I would be interested to see a dyno comparison of the Skunk 2 Pro 1's vs ITR vs Skunk 2 Tuner Series 2 cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chubz0r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great information boosted hybrid!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been waiting on someone to break it down like that. I've got a set of pro1s at my house I just haven't put them in yet. I'm still not sure of a way to degree them in since my motor is already in the car.

 

I always assumed you would just put them in normal and then adjust them on the dyno...

MY Gsr cams were adjusted on the dyno..

 

i have a 84x89 setup with A BB 62-1 AND IM using blox A's. I was thinking about the b's but A's are more then enough. blox A's are bigger then CTR cams. if i was you i wouldnt go with a crazy cam. id keep it simple and use something small that you know is going to work out just fine.

 

i heard blox HSL=skunk2 pro1's. im not sure. go with the blox a's you'll be happy. there are people making 700whp on gsr cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pompiuses &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you mind posting that dyno?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think that the customer wants his graph posted on the net, which is why i havent put it up.

As far as degreeing the cams, the amount of adjustment needed to get the cams to the proper centerlines will depend on the timing belt tension, how much has been milled from the head/block and headgasket thickness. I have found that on a stock head/block/headgasket they are usually in the +1~2 intake advance and +3~4 exhaust advance. That will get you started and in the neighborhood of where they need to be. I have degreed cams in alot of customers engines, and typically end up adjusting the gears a little on the dyno and make more power from where they degree in at. This is not always the case, but alot of the time it holds true. The Pro Series cams usually will idle and drive like crap unless the centerlines are close to where skunk designed them to run at.

 

Thanks BH finally a real answer with these cams on a street boosted application maybe we need to make this a stickie...........Lastly BH can you recommend a cam for t3 60-1 or t3/67 B18c supertech valvetrain?

Thanks again
Chris


Modified by Cole D at 1:40 PM 7/8/2008

 

The tuner 1s is what I would run, its the best overall cam that i have found with minimal valve train wear.

 

Would it matter what style manifold a customer is using?
ie: Log manifold (Inline Pro) vs Equal length??

 

damn, lots of good info on here, thanks for sharing boosted hybrid

 

With a log manifold the largest cam that you can run and make power with is the ITR/CTR profile. Even with the Inline Pro stainless "race" version manifold, anything larger just loses power.

An equal length manifold, with a decent size turbo can start using larger than stock cams. It all comes down to back pressure and scavenging. The less backpressure you have in the manifold, from an efficient equal length and good size turbine wheel the larger cam you can run within reason. Dont expect to slap a set of the Pro 1 cams in with a greddy kit, or ebay log manifold and expect to make power...not going to happen. If you are able to log exhaust manifold backpressure, you would find that a 1:1 ratio between intake and exhaust manifold pressure and lower (on the exhaust side) will give gains with mild NA cams.

I have found that the Skunk2 tuner 1 cams are the best overall cam, and can be used on a good efficient turbo set-up from a 50 trim T3/T4 turbo all the way to s372+ size and make great power.

The Pro 1 and Tuner stage 2 cams should be only used for GT35r + sized turbos.