i will be picking up my drag gen 3 turbo in about 3 weeks and just wanted to know what tools will I need to install the kit .. how long does it usually take to install it ????

 

Full Socket set, Full Open ended wrench set, pliers, needle nose pliers, zip ties of various sizes, dremel (naybe), a breaker bar or similar, a torque wrench, wire cutter/stripper (good ones), degreaser, brake cleaner, Do an oil change, jack, jack stands, a friend would be great too.

There's prolly a couple of things you could get too, but I am at work and I make it a point not to think here...

Good luck and don't blow it up.

Oh... don't forget a bottle of advil and some beer.

X2

 

thanx will i have be file or weld anything to make it fit????????

 

Probably not... I don't have the drag kit, but for the most part, the fit and finish on those aftermarket kits are great and basically just bolt on. Make sure you get all of the gaskets (Manifold, turbo, W/G) and some extra vaccum line to make things all pretty.

Do you already have an oil pan tapped for turbo ? If not, you will need that ahead of time to avoid any confusion.

 

doesnt the kit come with that????:??? Is it also true you have to weld the downpipe to the exhaust

 

Good question, not sure if the Drag kit comes with it... I doubt it tho... go look at your brochure pics.. heh heh. But I don't think it does... never seen a turbo kit with a tapped pan before.

I don't know what condition the DP comes in with the kit, but to avoid any welding, it would have to already have a flange welded from the manufacturer AND be long enough to connect to the catalytic.

 

i believe that drag does not provide a flanged downpipe to connect to your exhaust...so you'll have to do that on your own

 

i will be ordering one soon


i will be ordering one soon????

 

Do they at least provide a DP on that kit ?

 

yeah...what i meant by that was the downpipe they provide does not have the flange to connect to the exhaust

 

do they just sell the flanges or will it have to be welded???
also I have another question i have>>> so the manifold bolts to the downpipe , which then the down pipe must be welded to the cat and then the cat will bolt in back to the exhaust. Is that correct

 

drag kit does not come with flang for down pipe. just go to any automotive store get one. it's only $2-$5. you will need a welder for the oil return line and the down pipe. some of the intercooling pipe might need to be trim. so you will need a hack saw. the drag kit is not a bolt on kit at all. well, for me it wasn't but i have a hybrid. you will have to play around with it.

 

how much would it cost then to have a shop just install the whole damn kit????

 

some shop around here charge $300-$400 for install and tunning.

 

thanx for the estimate

 

really? that low? hmmm.... tempting...
i dunno, ive heard estimates anything from 600-1200. these have all been accross the online community, have yet to go out to a shop and ask.

 

DIY = $0.00 good deal

 

I agree, you'll learn a lot in the process!! Most shops around here charge around 500 for a full install. 1200 for an install is insane!!

 

i have a drag 3 kit for my 00 ls that I installed all by myself, and you have to get the oil return line fitting welded to the oil pan, and my downpipe was kinda upwards stabbing into the bottom of my car when i bolted it up and yes it has to be welded to your exhaust. it cost me 20.00 for the welding of the oil return line fiting to the oil pan, and 60.00 for the exhaust work w/ the downpipe.

just for your sake, dont let the turbo installation get you down bro. it seems very overwhelming like you might **** up your car, but be confident and ask h-t members for advice when you need it or if you have a question. ill be glad to help you out, but you do need tools. good luck bro, and i hope everything works out for you.




[Modified by boostedsol, 9:26 PM 7/17/2002]

 

well I plan on doing the install in front of my house.... How would i get the dp welded when im putting it on in front of the house? can I drive it to the closest shop to get it done without the exhuast on?

::can hear the ragine b18c1 with turbo on and disconnected dp now::

 

don't weld it to the exhaust. get the right flange for it and bolt it to the cat. just cut the dp so that it touch the cat and then drive it a mufler to get a flange put on.

 

I think 90% of the work on Hondas is done with a 12mm wrench. That and a screwdriver should do

 

combine all the tools everyone has listed and there you go easy as pie.

 

if u have a 10, 12, and 14mm and a breaker bar, you can take down just about any honda just like number 5 did in short circuit!

 

As far as tools and stuff, here is a rough break down...

Honda Dealership Manual / Helms
Torque Wrench 10-150ft*lbs
Breaker bar
Socket set (6MM-26MM) (most common 10,12,14mm)
wrenches from 10-26mm is good also (10,142,14mm most commonly used)
15/16 deep socket/wrench to take off the oil pressure sending unit
C-Clamp Tool - for bov ring
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips head screw driver + 2 sheetmetal screws to mount FMU to firewall
hack-saw + sandpaper
zip ties
drill with grinder- in case block needs modification
tig welder for oil return line on oil pan
welder for downpipe to exhaust
Electrical tape+butt connectors or heat shrink+solder+solder gun
wire strippers/crimpers
Razor blade
dremel - for front end modification
shop towels
teflon tape
zip lock bags/metal tray to put bolts into


good things to have also...
7series spark plugs (one stage colder then stock)
4 quarts Synthetic Oil *Mobil 1 is good*
NEW Exhaust Manifold from Honda Dealership
NEW Oil pan gasket from Honda Dealership
NEW Oil filter from Honda Dealership
WD-40 (To help get any bolts loose that you are having problems untightening)
flexpipe to weld from downpipe to replace cat (if you choose to remove it)

Thats all i can think of right now, and last but not least, youll need patience


[Modified by GudeH23a, 9:55 AM 7/18/2002]