[edit] nevermind... I'm going to do some more research on my own before I go asking generic questions.

someone can delete this post if they want.


[Modified by JeffS, 7:36 PM 7/14/2002]

 

I know you said that you're going to do more research, but here's some advice anyway.

The sourece: My father recently gave me the same advice on purchasing a MiG welder. He's a millwright/welder/fabricator/machinist by trade and works for DuPont of Canada (a subsidiary of E.I. DuPont, etc...). He's been doing welding/fab stuff since before I was born and knows his stuff.....

Here's the deal:
- Do it right the first time! Ignore anything that is less than $400 becuase you'll end up cursing at the $200 rig you bought and buying the $400 rig anyway. If you can afford it, get a $600-$700 setup.

- Don't buy any "gassless" mig welders. Gasless has to do with the type of wire you use. For doing automotive stuff (especially if you want it to look half decent) you want to use gas and regular wire. Besides, a welder that will do gas can also operate gasless.

- Get a unit that runs on 230V. 120V units will only end up limiting the amount of work you can do. Everyone has 230V in their house (range/clothes dryer) so getting power isn't a problem.....

- Check out the duty cycle numbers and the AMPERAGE at which the duty cycle is rated. 16% @ 20 AMPS for example means you can weld for 16 out of every 100 minutes drawing 20 AMPS without overloading the welder. THIS IS IMPORTANT. You don't want to have to stop and wait for the welder to cool down every 5 minutes when you're trying to get something done....

- Get a variable speed "stinger" and make sure the "stinger" is sturdy and well made (you should be able to tell just by holding it). This is, after all, the part that does the actual welding.

Harbor Freight does sell some decent welders. Chicago Electric is rebadged Miller (which is good stuff) and Hobart is also good stuff.

Just passing along what was told to me. If I'm unclear, let me know and I'll try to fix it, or get a clarification from the pros.

-Matt

 

230V is also your friend so you can shoot monstrous welding beads in a single pass when you're working on thick metal plate. Comparing one project I worked on, what took one pass with a 230V welder on heavy metal plate would've taken 3 passes with a 110v setup. You get one solid, clean bead vs. attempting to make 3 cooperate. Nice to know you can get a full-penetration weld easy as pie.

We use Miller stuff at work, it works.


[Modified by WRXRacer111, 8:34 PM 7/14/2002]

 

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/

 

Daytona Mig, or Lincoln are two good choices...

nick, who will have a garage on Sept 1, 2002

 

What the other guys said.

Of course, all of that said, I bought the Hobart Handler 135. It is about the biggest 120V unit you can buy. Yes, I have 230V service at home, and I can even wire the 230V in my workshop (my air compressor is 230V).

BUT, I can't get 230V everywhere I go (my friends, neighbors, etc). The 120V seemed to be the way to go. I could even run the welder off of a small electric generator at the race track if I wanted to. It is also relatively light weight, I can haul it in the back of my Celica with ease.

So far I use it for misc. fabrication things around my workshop. I've done some exhaust repairs, and quite a few project from weld steel (no bigge rthan 3/16 thick). I even repaired a desk chair.

Right now I use flux cored wire, but eventually I will go out and get some welding gas. I also want to try my hand at aluminum welding.

Would I buy the welder again? Yup.

Note, I have NO other welding experience to compare the little Hobart with. Maybe if I used a bigger welder, I would say otherwise. All I know is that this one has held up fine for the projects I've had.

Scott

 

I agree about the portability of a 120V welder. If you think you'll do this a lot (carry it around to friends houses) and still want the heavier welder you have two choices (so I understand) :

Get a dual voltage unit (runs on 230V or 120V) or get a clothes dryer plug (everyone has a clothes dryer) and wire it up to your welder. Get a long spool of cable and you're set.

Option 1 is obvioulsy easier than option 2.

-Matt

 

are you referring to body panels? what if i just want to do stuff like brackets, which is a lot thicker.


are you sure about that? i thought in california everything is 120v.

really, even their lower models? cuz they have some chicago electric ones that are under 200, some even down to 49$ that says 40amps. is that enough to do light brackets and exhaust piping?

 

I just bought my lincoln electric wire feed welder. I also picked up a bunch of scrap metal to practice with. Monster Garage baby!

 

A lot of good info so far. Here are my opinions. Definitely get a unit that can use gas. FYI, just because something says that it can weld up to x" think metal, doesn't mean it can easily. That will be maxing out the duty cycle & is under ideal conditions. Think about not only what will be doing today but what you will want to be able to weld tomorrow. Everyone has 230V as mentioned above. Instead of using a 'dryer' adapter, I wired a 230V outlet off my panel/meter with a dedicated breaker. I also have a 25' 6 gauge cable extension cord. This allows me to work on stuff like my trailer in the driveway.

I have the Miller Millermatic 175. It runs on 230V. It will weld 1/8" material without even breaking a sweat. (1/8" = .120 wall tubing) It is better than the Hobart (same parent company) because it has infinite settings within the range for both voltage & wire feed speed. The Hobart 175 & others have fixed voltage settings. It also has a better feed mechanism. In this amp. range, I think it is a best buy. One of the things it had over another 'name' brand unit is the fact it came with the gas set up. It wasn't an add on option costing $500.

Check out the websites. Do some comparison shopping. Personally, I would stay away from off brands. I don't skimp on tools anymore. Not worth the time or frustration.

Best prices that I found & free shipping. www.cyberweld.com

 

Doing some research of my own...Miller is the way to go.

aj

 

Is this welder ok for use on roll cage building or will I have overheating problems

Mig Pak 10

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...3&isolocale=EN

 

I have the same welder, same opinion, and the same experiences.