I am needing some to seat well with the Rota Subzero's that i purchased for my ITR. They will see some track time and i always torque before and after every session on the track. I hear problems with the Kyokugens and dont need any fancy lightweight lug nuts as it is. Just something that works. I am pretty sure i am wanting an Acorn style for these rims correct? Any info in the matter will be appreciated.

mike

 

kyokugens work fine for..the key is a lil loose but someone on hybrid fixed it with some jb weld...i havent fixed mine..it works fine enough..u shouldnt be using airguns anyway..so doing it with ur hand on the kyokugens is the way to go without stripping them and they hold fine.

 

The Kyokugens work fine for me. What problems are people having?

 

I torqued my Kyokugens to spec at Summit Point and they were comming loose by the end of each session. I needed to over torque them to hold.


[Modified by 6ghatch, 6:24 PM 7/12/2002]

 

Just be sure to use the right kind of nut with your wheel (i.e. acorn, tapered, flat). I believe rotas are tapered.

 

I 'm having trouble balancing my Rota Attacks 15x6.5" that I got 2 weeks ago. I got the wheels balance twice at different shops and the steering wheel still vibrates at 65-75mph.
I think the tire shop I got the tires mounted at, gave me the acorn lugs. They "turn-in" at the end and they 're identical to the ones that Tirerack sent me with the K1s that I have on my GSR (the Rotas are on my '01 Civic EX).
Could it be the balance is affected by the lug nuts? Should I get tapered ones? and where do I get those from? Is there a vendor online that sells a variety of lugs and are knowledgeable?
Revolution Motorsports where I purchased the Rota Attacks from, think that I should do static balancing as well as dynamic. Meaning a clip on the inside of the wheel as well as the stick on weights. I only have the stick ons right now (dynamic balancing). Any ideas? Maybe hubcentric rings might help? I believe someone a few months ago posted in one of the forums here that new lugs had helped with most of the vibration on his Rotas which why I 'm posting this problem here.. but I can't find it in the archives. thanks for any suggestions you may have!


[Modified by VTEConly, 8:02 PM 7/12/2002]

 

Spoon lug nuts

 

1. Hubcentric rings might solve your problem if you're not using a lugnut that seats correctly in the wheel.

2. You really should get some correct lugnuts regardless.

3. If these are r-compound tires, they can be very hard to balance since they pick up a bunch of crap. So a balanced tire with the crap all over it might not be so balanced once said crap has been scrubbed off.

4. BTW, for the original poster, I use the lugnuts provided to me for use with my wheels. Long allen key things for the Enkeis and long conventional ones for the Kosei K1s.

 

I use the same lugs krshultz has. They are TSW lugs that use a 12mm hex bit. They work fine on my Subzeros.


Drew - Who isn't using hubcentric rings with his Subzeros and has not had any problems

 

drew, where could i pick some of these up at or somethere equivalent? Can anyone confirm that i need to use a tapered lug nut for this style of rim (the Subzero made by Rota)?

thanks

mike





[Modified by talkie25, 2:01 AM 7/13/2002]

 

They're made by "Gorilla" or some such thing. Came with the wheels, which I bought many years ago from Discount Tire Direct. Came with 16 plus 4 locks, which I prompty installed in the closest trash can.

The only people who can confirm what kind of lugnut you need is people who have those rims.

 

You will need to use the tapered lug nuts for the Rota's. I just use a open lug nut with the 12mm X 1.5 thread You should be able to go to just about any wheel shop & get them. Let them know that they are for aftermarket rims. The factory wheels use the acorn style. If you are street-ing this car, you will probably want something better looking.
If you are tracking the car & getting the brakes pretty hot, you should be using more torque than factory spec. I use 88 ft/lbs. The factory spec is 80 ft/lbs. I still check them for tightness after the practice session. Different expansion rates between steel & aluminum is the reason, I think.
You shouldn't have to put anything other than stick on weights on your custom wheels to get them balanced assuming your tires are good. Honda/Acura cars don't seem to be as sensitive as some other cars. I don't think you will need the hubcentric rings. If you do decide to go with them, try to find them made out of aluminum. The plastic ones melt on the track. BTW, I have never used them on a Honda product.


[Modified by civicrr, 7:53 PM 7/12/2002]

 

Yeah goto Discount Tire and get the ones they have for $1.25 each they are made by Gorilla. They hold my Rota Slipstreams on just fine.

 

Thanks Civicrr, Karl & Drew.
What are exactly are tapered lugnuts? Is it a kit that comes with its own socket, etc? Could the lack of tapered lugs be causing the vibration like the wheels/tires are not balanced properly?
I guess it's worth a try. I 'm to take off the acorn lugs and try tapered ones to see if the vibration is gone. Does that about sum it up?
BTW, this '01 Civic EX I'm having the problem with, is a daily driver with RE950s (HR M+S) and it is not auto-xed or tracked. The V700s are on my GSR but I 've never had a problem with the K1s on that car w/ the acorn lugs or with balancing. It's the new Civic that has me scratching my head with these Rotas.

Do these tapered lugs use a Hex tool or do they just need a 12mm socket? If I do need hex, can I attach it to my torque wrench? How do I recognize tapered lugs, in case they try to pass me some other crap instead of tapered? What is distinctive about them? No more questions after this


[Modified by VTEConly, 11:39 PM 7/12/2002]

 

(Assuming I'm on the same page with everyone else)

Tapered means the base - that is, the part that sits against the wheel while tightened - of the lugnut, is tapered, not flat (flat meaning parallel with the face of the car's hub). Think of the seating "face" of the lugnut as being conical and you get the idea. So theoretically, you don't need centering rings, because the tapered lugnuts do the centering for you as you tighten.

 

It sounds like you just described the ones I have on the Rotas now, as well as the K1s (on the GSR). I thought these were the Acorn type, where they get round and smooth at the end as well as smaller in diameter than the outside of the lug (which is 19mm or 3/4"). But I 'm not sure if they can be described as conical.. Ok I 'll shop around for them tomorrow at different stores and see what tapered looks like.
I will also be looking for something smaller than 19mm (3/4") because I have almost no room for play in there with my Krafstman (thin) socket and it's easy to scratch the wheels. The lugs that came with the K1s from Tirerack are actually 11/16", 1/16" smaller than the ones I have on the Rotas. I also noticed that the Rota lugs I have on now are 1/4" longer than the ones that came with the K1s but I don't think that matters, does it? except maybe a little extra weight.

 

Off Topic but.... How do you like these tires??? They looked like they got really good survey reviews on tire rack and they're decently priced. I was thinking about picking up a set to throw on my stock alloys for the wintertime and daily driving.

RJ

 

hi all,

i have a set of kosei senekas (sp?)
they came on my car and use a lug i've never seen before.
they are the socket drive but the part that seats on the wheel is extended sort of like a stud centric thing
well the problem is, one of the lugs stripped and became useless.
i got it off and the stud replaced but i have trouble finding the correct lug nut for it
the regular socket lugs don't grab enough threads for me (3 threads at the max)
i tried the gorillas and it was the same.

does anyone know where i can get some lugs that will work with my rim?
it is like the rime is too thick and the lug hole is too big.
so the lugs that i have fill that void

if you guys don't understand what i mean tell me so i can take some pics

TIA

 

Acorns do get round at the small end. Tapered just...end. Think of a funnel with the last little tube part cut off.
You should be able to get open lugs that work with a 17mm socket & still have the 12 X 1.5 thread. I think that McGard also has some 'tuner' type lugs that will work. They are splined.

 

i'm using the rays engineering lugnuts. no problems with coming loose, ever, so far. bad thing is that they're pricey.

 

==> http://www.gorilla-auto.com/

 

I'm running skunk2 lugnuts. I really like them because they're extra-long and are easy to grip to spin on by hand. They're open-ended so they'll work if/when I ever install longer wheel studs.

They're very light, but I really don't care about that. They're quite expensive (about $80 a set), though still cheaper than spoon and rays. Expect them to get get scarred up though. Expect them to start showing wear though if you're actually doing more than installing the wheels and leaving them for 20k miles.

 

So to recap the consensus here is that hubcentric rings will melt on the track and i dont need the rings anyways because i will have the correct style lugnut for the Rota Subzeros. I won't even bother putting on the hubcentric rings if they are going to melt and i think i have seen that before on this site.

mike

 

You still havn't made it down to pep boys/ DAP?

 

I use McGard Splinedrives.