Hey just wanted to share my engine build with everyone.

Car:
1994 Acura Integra GSR coupe

Head:
GSR
DIY p&p
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams
Skunk2 Pro gears
Skunk2 Pro valve springs
Skunk2 Pro retainers
Skunk2 70mm TB
Skunk2 Pro intake manifold (p&p)
Hondata intake mani gasket
Eldebrock Performer X Intake manifold (p&p)
OEM valves
OEM gasket kit
milled .004(might get it cut again) + .010

Block:
GSR
81.25mm bore
decked .004
JDM P30 piston
OEM LS rods
OEM LS Crank
OEM main/rod bearings
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
OEM 3 layer HG
OEM oil pump,water pump, seals, gaskets etc
OEM Civic SI crank pulley
Rotating assembly balanced

Exhaust:
Hytech Replica Tri-y header

Fuel:
Prelude 290cc injectors
Walbaro 255 hp fuel pump
hondata s300

Trans:
Exedy 9lb flywheel
Exedy stage 1 clutch

Goal: 210+whp

Pictures:

Block looked ugly so I......

...painted with aluminum paint

P30 with ls rods

oem gaskets

tri-y

flywheel

DIY p&p (1st time)

Going to open this up to 70mm with......

porting tools

head is assembled





Modified by 00b18b at 12:55 AM 4/23/2008

 

Looks really good so far man. I personaly think 70mm is a tad big for that setup tho. What is your static compression?

 

Compression calculator says 12:1 C/R but I'm sure its less from various factors. I might cut the head a little more to make sure I'm in the 12:1 range. About the TB, I bought it from a guy who gave me a killer deal($150 brand new) that I just could not pass up that goes for a lot of my other parts also. I might post up my complete cost build sheet.

 

210 whp sounds reachable with good tuning....build looks awesome

 

you selected good parts for ur build.
and just a tip for ur diy port, use aluma carbide bits, it cuts alot faster than those double-cut bits, u can use the double-cuts after the aluma bits to smoothen up the walls but use alot of lubricant cause the double-cuts tend to clogg up alot, and then finish it with ur cartridge rolls.


Modified by b20vtech at 11:47 PM 4/10/2008

 

I didn't want to spend too much on the bits. Northern tool had this set for 30 bucks so i figured it would work but now working the IM, i will need a much longer shank like the mandrels. imo i thought it took off material way too fast for me, i like to work slower.

 

If you didnt at least have a quality valve job done, your portwork will all be for nothing.

 

I felt the vj was not a must have in the build, didn't have the funds. I really hope thats not the case... i hope it helps a tad bit but whatever the case next build I wont be on such a strict budget

 

A good VJ > diy portwork.

Did you check if it hold vacuum? I would atleast lap the valves.

Sounds like 185-190whp motor.

 

Didn't check if it held vacuum but i think i can. i did however lap the valves

 

Looking good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good VJ &gt; diy portwork. </TD></TR></TABLE> agreed ...i think the op will come close to reaching his goals...i built a very similar motor but with an gsr crank and pr3 pistons thats made jus under 209 whp so i would think the extra compression and stroke will put him a hair over my build

 

UPDATE 4/18

just received performer X manifold...heres a comparo against skunk2





i'm not sure if opening it up to 70mm is a good idea anyone done this before?


lots of material needs to be taken off

 

4/23

Just got the head back again from machine shop milled another 10 thou off

 

hahaha...OH VTEC...i like that...hahaha....

 

hey just wanted to know y u chose pro1s you have enuf compression to run pro2s and would probably obtain ur goal a lil more easily were they jus a good deal or a personal preference..... i only ask because im building a nearly identical setup and am trying to decide between pro2s or 1s

 

You will be able to open up the TB entrance to 70mm and not hit air if you have a steady hand. A performer X I just cleaned up also needed alot of material removed from the gasket side as well.

 

I didn't have a choice really a sweet deal came along and that seems to be sufficient for what i needed. This car is going to be daily driven also...but if i see a set of pro 2's dirt cheap ill pick em up to do a dyno comparo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will be able to open up the TB entrance to 70mm and not hit air if you have a steady hand. A performer X I just cleaned up also needed alot of material removed from the gasket side as well.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


are u just port matching that manifold or going to clean up the whole runner? i'm having a hard time find a bur thats 8+ inches long. what are you using btw?

 

Thats just a gasket match. Finding a bur with a 8" shank might make for some injuries. At that point you are better off just cutting off the plenum and hitting the other end of the runners from up top.

 

looks good so far. In for some numbers asap.

 

I hate that i don't have the capabilities to do that, looks like ill have to use the mandrel rolls

 

Not all port and polishes make power...you can even lose power....not a big fan of DIY pnp's....good build nontheless

 

really liking the build so far!

though ... with a good valve job, it'd be flawless.

good luck with the project.

-Chris