This weekend, I broke a wheel stud in the rear due to a siezed lugnut. A big tip I learned is to put antisieze on every wheel stud, also helps lubricating when screwing on and reduces wear of the stud/nut. The second thing I learned is dont bang out the wheel stud with the hub still on the spindle. Just do it off the spindle, you gotta take the hub out anyway to bang the new one in. This picture is probably a result of doing this. However, the howl went away after repacking with synth grease and lasted 1.5 races the next day.

 

Thanks for the tip Tyson.

Question:
How or what specific tool do I need to replace front wheel bearings (or rear for that matter)? I have 4 front knuckles (2 on the car, and 2 spares) I need to get longer studs and new bearings in. I already have the H&R studs and will buy a Honda tool to save future shop labor and do it myself.

Thanks in advance.

~edit~ Always use antiseize on wheel studs.



[Modified by johng, 11:40 AM 7/8/2002]

 

for the front, you really need a hydraulic press. i called around and got $25 per hub for pressing old ones out and new ones in. but i went to my honda mechanic friend and race mentor and he did it for me anyway. my inner race up front was sized pretty bad, so it was a bitch to get out, at least it looked like it while he was doing it im looking for a spare set of front knuckles too. i cant imagine having to find a way to replace the hub on the knuckle at the track. the rears are easy as the hub just comes off after the spindle nut. im really glad it was a rear stud that broke and not a front....

 

I have access to presses where I work. Is that all I need? No other fancy tool or retaining clip remover thingamagigy? If it's just a straightforward press in/press out procedure, I'm golden.

 

Just imagine having an accord that needs all that to change the rotors.

but I heard that antiseize, will change the amount of tourqe that is needed to tighten the wheel lugs, as they now spin more freely.? I had thought of dooing this, but after hearing that the tq specs will be different with the studs wet vs dry I have not.

 

really? accord suspension is different that changing rotors requires a press? my friend mentioned he got charged $400 dollars for brake service and thought that was outrageous. he said they said to him "theres a hard way, and and easy way to change rotors, yours is the hard way" i didnt believe it.

anyway, no, putting lubricant on threads does not change torque specs. torque specs are based on the amount of force to stretch of the threaded stud a certain amount. if anything, the antisieze makes it more accurate since you get a better torque reading with the torque wrench.

 

Good point - torque specs are determined using a standard "lubricated thread". Something with high-load lubricity might change that but not a lot, I wouldn't guess. (Note that "guess" is the operative word there.) The more common mistake is to OVERtorque wheel nuts, of all kinds, on racing cars...

Kirk

 

Yes the accord has the hub over rotor design, and you either need a slide hammer or a press to change the rotors, and every time you change the rotors you have to change the wheel bearings. , but I guess I will put some antiseize on my wheelstuds next time I shange the wheels.

 

Yes, changing the front bearings on a Civic/CRX/Integra knuckle will require a set of snap ring pliers.
First, you've gotta bang (press) out the hub.
Notice that 1/2 of the bearing inner race stuck on your hub.
Then, remove the snap ring on the back side of the knuckle/bearing.
Beat (press) out what's left of the old bearing and press the new one in.

In my exprience, which is purely "backyard" you've gotta get creative to get that inner race 1/2 off of the hub. I usually use a dremel with a heavy duty cut off wheel. Just don't cut into the hub surface...

 

not really, a small drill bit, pair of pliers and a hammer gets that snap ring out of there jiffy quick.

D

 

where can i get those wheel studs?

mine in the front are little bit bent, and i think it would be safer to replace them

are they easy to replace AT HOME??

i don't want to pay somebody to do it, sucks to pay

i have done all the work myself so far, so i think i can save this and do it myself

help would be good pleaes

 

WD-40=Antisieze?





[Modified by siisgood00, 12:41 PM 7/9/2002]

 

WD-40 != antiseize

 

[edit]... hmm, I never knew there was a spray.


[Modified by JeffS, 1:06 PM 7/9/2002]

 

you can do the rears easily at home. just do what i didnt and bang it off the sprindle and support it well. if you dont know how to support it well, then maybe you should have someone else do it for you. one hint tho is to use sockets that are large and long enough around the other studs while banging the other one. the fronts require a press to remove the hub in order to bang the studs in and out, as stated above.

and i just went to honda to buy my new stud.


[Modified by Tyson, 10:53 AM 7/9/2002]

 

I have heard that anti-seize is a bad idea because the lugs can become loose easier under high stress driving more so than lugs w/o the anti-seize.

Is there any truth to this?

I don't run anti-seize, but I do make sure that my lugs spin on very easily or I dab a tiny amount of high temp grease (less than a fingertip's worth) onto the end of the stud.

And just to add another person agreeing with the Accord/Prelude vs. Civic/Integra rotor thing:

For the Civic/Teg it's a 20 minute job with a phillips bit on a impact driver while the Acoord/Lude need a slide hammer or press because the hub has to come off.

I have yet to do the harder rotors yet here at work, but I've seen it enough to know that I'm glad I own a Civic.

 

yeah, dont use antisieze on sparkplugs, makes em pop out of the head under high compression.

 

The anti-seize pictured above is the stuff. A small dab on each wheel stud does not make 'em get loose. Personal experience, I've been using small dabs of antiseize on my wheel studs and spark plugs, ect... for years. No problems.

$.02

 

Thanks for the pic JeffS!

 

am i the only one who can replace wheel studs with a hammer and an small bench anvil?

Once you get the spindle off the car, it's easy. right size socket, hammer the hub out of the spindle. hammer wheel studs out... hammer new ones in... hammer hub back in spindle, taking extreme care of inner race...

 

Update: Got the anti-seize yesterday and tried it out today.... AWESOME! Lugs glide right on now. Thanks all for the tip.

 

please tell me you're not serious....

 

no, not serious. read the whole thread