Ok, so my prelude auto tensioner failed (as they all seem to). So I didnt have the time to buy all the parts for the manual conversion (and didnt want to spend the cash), so I did it the cheap, easy and fast way.

1) Removing the old auto tensioner and gut it (take the screw out the backside and the little top hat and retaining clip out (spring, push rod, etc will blow out)).
2) Go down to the local hardware store and purchase the following:
. A) Allthread lock nut (aka. coupling nut...like a regular nut, just longer in length)
. B) 2 bolts and one regular nut.
3) Tap the *** end of the auto-tensioner body (which doesnt have to be done, but I wanted to make sure the coupling nut didnt turn/move around).
4) Insert the allthread into the autotensioner body and thread the first bolt into the all thread from the backend to keep the allthread secure.
5) Put the regular nut on the other bolt and insert both into the all-thread.
6) Re-install, thread the bolt out to tension the timing belt and use the nut to lock it in place agains the coupler nut.


Helpful Hints:
I used 3/8-16 bolts and nuts just because thats what the local hardware store had (try to find a coupler nut in metric at the local lowes.....). It is the largest that will fit without making modifications to the autotensioner (you want the largest thing possible to prevent the bolt from bending or having issues).

I also had to grind my coupler nut down about 10mm to allow it to fit into the stock location.


Gutted Auto-tensioner


Tap Set


Coupler nut


Regular ole' nuts


Bolt....did I really need a picture?


A tap up the auto-tensioners ***....just what it needs after failing on my built motor.


Coupler into the tensioner


Fits in flush


Add a bolt in the rear to hold the coupler in place (notice coupler is installed and bolt goes through the autotensioner and into the coupler.....you could also just drill the autotensioner out and not have it threaded)


Bolt w/ lock nut installed (also, I switched from a cap head to a regular bolt because once installed I found it difficult to turn the cap head w/ pliers and a regular hex head bolt and a end wrench worked much better to tension the belt with).


What it looks like when it is tensioned (install w/ bolt all the way in, then loosen it out).

 

Wow thats a ghetto thread. Good job

 

Cool setup dude. I like.

I'm just hoping that the vibrations down there don't loosen up your setup and cause failure.

 

From the looks of the setup, there's an extra nut on the shaft of the bolt to act as a lock nut when it's torqued against the coupler. Am I right?

 

locktite would be a must, lmao

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K-Litt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From the looks of the setup, there's an extra nut on the shaft of the bolt to act as a lock nut when it's torqued against the coupler. Am I right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Indeed there is...loctite is a great idea (which oddly enough I had some and didnt use it). However, being that rod bolts and such dont fail (bolts that hold the tensioner bearing on, etc), I have alot of faith that my locked bolt/nut will hold up to the vibrations. In general I think if the bolts holding the tensioner onto the block dont wiggle loose, neither will these. Plus, if anything the bolt that holds tension will slowly thread into the coupler nut and you will notice the semi-loose timing belt before it can cause any damage....either way, I've got 1,000 miles w/ no problems thus far.

 

ahaha very creative

do you plan on running this set up for a while or just until you get enough funds to get the manual conversion?

 

I've never seen it done this way before; good work!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Infinity_Racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahaha very creative

do you plan on running this set up for a while or just until you get enough funds to get the manual conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, funds arent "really" a problem, the issue was time. To be honest, after installing it, I feel very secure it wont fail or cause issues. So I dont really have a reason to redo it w/ the manual parts from the H23. Sure its not pretty, but then again, its behind a timing cover...

 

I like the thinking outside the box. But how is that putting the correct amount of tension on teh belt?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the thinking outside the box. But how is that putting the correct amount of tension on teh belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm worried about the tension on that as well... its just better to replace the tensioner when you're doing the timing belt anyways... thats what we do at my work..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the thinking outside the box. But how is that putting the correct amount of tension on teh belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Coming from the Integra chassis (which uses a manual tensioner), you have to self tension the belt anyway...yes, the little spring is suppose to tension the belt properly, but it never does so you end up pushing on the tensioner with a screw driver. Thus, you simply unscrew the bolt outward (placing more and more tension on the belt the further you go) until you have the proper tension.

 

This looks interesting, but there's no way you could adjust the tension with the engine in the car, no? How would you get a wrench on it to turn the bolt?

 

After chasing parts today to fix this, I'm strongly considering this method.
I am thinking re-adjustment is pretty far from a concern...I know I have never went back and re-tensioned the belt before just changing it again. Maybe on a car That u would be removing the cams on alot, but not on a repair like I'm doing.

 

Wow thats not a bad idea! I bet that the belt is alot easier to get on too. Good work!

 

I'll be doing it next week on my h23 bluetop... :crosses fingers:

 

what about a timing belt change. how would you loosen the tension and then re-tension it if you can't get a wrench on it. It seems like a cool idea, but has this been considered?

 

wait...... does the h23vtec have an auto or manual? I'm pretty sure it has an auto... Sorry to threadjack