From what I understand the bottom of the FITV ports will cause a vac leak when mated to the Euro-R.

I was wondering if anyone had thoughts about making it work. I was thinking about using some huge amount of liquid gasket to just fill them up and maybe that would seal it.

 

use a newer b16 tb. or an aftermarket tb.

 

The aftermarket TB is why I want to use my OEM TB.

 

Cut and build a spacer out of (metal) gasket that will separate it enough to by pass the FITV. Than use your liquid gasket sealant on both sides.

How much does the fitv sit in the way anyway?

 

Look here:

https://honda-tech.com/zero...ge=22

 

Man, Pirate's got the mad skillz.

I discovered that while my Skunk2 TB is useless, the 68mm TB gasket it came with gives me a hope of sealing the FITV. Only a really small amount of the left FITV hangs out although I think the right one is close as well.

It's still tough though, because the manifold is bored out to 68mm as well the IAC and (other) FITV passages are dangerously close to being exposed depending on how I shift the gaskets around (I double stacked OEM + S2).

At any rate I'll know tomorrow if my completely inappropriate use of gasket maker will work after it sets. It definitely didn't work when I only waited a half-hour

A some kind of inflexible spacer that gets cut to fit will be my next strategy if it doesn't work, but that is much more of a pita. It's too cold out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A some kind of inflexible spacer that gets cut to fit will be my next strategy if it doesn't work, but that is much more of a pita. It's too cold out </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you can't get the gasket sealer to work let me know and I'll make one of these plates for ya, I need make some anyways, I know ur not the only one with this kind of problem. Send me that skunk tb too if you want and I'll rework it like I did mine, I bet thats all it needs, mine seems fine now once I fixed the slop in it.

 

Your fix worked well? That's good to hear.

I've been disassembling the Skunk while waiting for the liquid gasket to seal. The one thing I've noticed so far is that with the throttle plate and spring removed the stick through the middle is hard to rotate some of the time and easy to rotate the rest of the time, with the "hard" part coming around 0-50% throttle (or so).

Is that normal?

 

no, haha. sounds like the shaft may be bent on the holes that it goes in on each side arent perfectly straight across from each other. the prob with mine was that the blade would move side to side about .025" causing it to rub on the side of the throttle bore and burr up. I just remade the spacer to keep the shaft in position and the blade from touching the sides of the bore.

 

Back in the day (last time I had the TB off the car to try and fix it) I did notice mine moving laterally in the bore depending on whether or not I slammed it shut or shut it slowly.

I don't know if that's the majority of the problem anymore.

Sigh, I wonder if I'll be able to get anything back from Skunk for it or a new one. I guess I'll have to go yell at them and see.

edit: to get an idea of the degree of difficulty with which the center stick spins, I can normally do it with my fingers except when it tightens up (1/3rd of the rotation). Normally a ratchet will turn it both ways except on that point where it will ratchet.

 

hmmn I wonder if it has just burred up enough from the shaft moving that its causing other problems?

 

The walls of the body look pretty decent. Nothing I would describe as burred up, although I'll look again.

But this variable difficulty with moving it comes without the plate in at all.

 

hey if that gasketing doesn't work try the aebs 68mm itr tb. that's what I used on m euro r and I had rosko bore mine at 68 also. matched flawlessly to the euro r. pricing was only like 110 bux for the tb also. to roskos products

 

Amazingly my ghetto solution seems to have worked although I'm not entirely sure why. When I first ran the car I had an idle that crept up and up from 1000 to 1600 quickly. And then after 5 minutes of driving it was down to 1000 and 10 minutes, 800. I'm amazed. What does a FITV do when it has no coolant in it?

In other news, the throttle modulation of the OEM TB is so much nicer than the Skunk. I'm in love with my car again.

 

Euro R TB = S2000?

 

i run the s2000 on mine and it works perfect.


btw, lloyd....did you fix the ignition adjustments option in NepTune yet?

 

Yeah. I set it to run about 30* map advance in VTEC and checked it off and to be sure put the disable above box at 1045.

How's it running? Feels pretty strong but it's been snowing here since I got back to the car and getting on it mostly equals wheelspin

I probably won't dyno it until spring.

 

nice work. unfortunatly after my install of euro r and dyno tune all i can see is wheelspin in 1st at any rpm.....kinda sucks i think somethings up.