From the "$50 Paint Job" thread...https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133

Started in Mid-October, got 6 coats on the hood, broke my foot skateboarding, just getting restarted.

Materials:
Rust-O-Leum Gloss Black Enamel
Rust-O-Leum Gloss Hunter Green Enamel
Mineral Spirits (not odorless)
4" High Density Foam Roller
120-2000 grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
Orbital Buffer
Synthetic Polishing sleeve
Meguiar's Cleaning Wax
Tack cloths
Tap water

Paint Mixture (remains the same for all steps):
1/4 cup Rust-o-Leum Enamel
3/4 cup Mineral Spirits
This makes enough for at least two complete coats of the hood. any more than this and you risk waste.

WALKTHROUGH
1. Old hood had chipping, peeling clearcoat and paint all over.
A. Sanded down with 120 and 200 grit paper until bare metal.
B. Cleaned metal with mineral spirits and wiped down with tack cloth.
C. Rolled on 1st coat, keeping it very light. Coverage was not complete.
D. Waited about 2 hours.
E. Rolled on 2nd coat, slightly thicker than 1st coat, which ensured complete coverage.

A close-up of the first two coats before sanding

2. At this stage no metal is visible anymore, only paint.
A. Waited 24 hours after application of 2nd coat.
B. Wet sanded with 400 grit paper.
C. Cleaned with new tack cloth.
D. Allowed water to dry for several hours.
E. Rolled on 3rd coat, still keeping coat as thin as the 1st coat.
F. Waited about 2 hours.
G. Rolled on 4th coat, as thick as 2nd coat.

A reflection of my hand on the hood before sanding

3. Hood is beginning to look normal at the fourth coat.
A. Waited 24 hours after application of 4th coat.
B. Wet sanded with 600 grit paper.
C. Cleaned with new tack cloth.

Close-up after sanding and cleaning 4th coat
D. Allowed water to dry for several hours.
E. Rolled on 5th coat, still keeping coat as thin as the first coat.
F. Waited about 2 hours.
G. Rolled on 6th coat, as thick as second coat.

Whole hood 24 hours after rolling on 6th coat, before sanding

4. Hood looks almost done.
A. Waited 24 hours after application of 6th coat.
B. Wet sanded with 800 grit paper.
C. Cleaned with new tack cloth.

Close-up of hood after cleaning and wet-sanding with 800 grit.
D. Allowed water to dry for several hours.
E. Rolled on 7th coat, still keeping coat as thin as the first coat.
F. Waited about 2 hours.
G. Rolled on 8th coat, as thick as second coat.
This is where I am at the writing of this topic. It has gotten much colder now than when I started this project, and that's messing with the paint. I've got pretty terrible orange peel now after the eighth coat. I'm posting this all then going to back to the garage so i can get to sanding.

 

Damn that looks good

 

sounds like an awful lot of work just to paint a hood and end up w/ shoddy results when you could take your hood to a body shop and let them paint it the right way for 100. or so more

besides, you could go to maco and have the WHOLE car painted for 500. and it will turn out better than that. especially if you do your own prepwork first.

if people cant afford to spend 100-200. to have their hood painted proffesionaly, they should be out working instead of on the internet

 

Give a guy a fish or teach him how to fish.

If he can get decent results (which it appears he can have great results with show room finishes) than eventually he could do entire cars for a tenth of the cost. Body work is the most expensive part of any labour and to some (me including) the cosmetic can suffer a bit if it means I can afford more engine/suspension/exhaust etc. parts.

The amount of sanding he's doing seems excessive but if its your baby and you want it to shine like gold than you sand till your fingers fall off.(period)

The temperature WILL RUIN your paint job if your in an unheated garage. I would stop untill it gets above 5-10 degree's celcius atleast. I think its best when coated even at room temperature (22 degree's celcius).

Painting in the cold is a nightmare!!!

 

I agree.. I hate people who bust other peoples stone. I am a DIY'er and love it when I see something like this. It also helps with other people's encouragement and positive inputs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ghost 5.9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like an awful lot of work just to paint a hood and end up w/ shoddy results when you could take your hood to a body shop and let them paint it the right way for 100. or so more

besides, you could go to maco and have the WHOLE car painted for 500. and it will turn out better than that. especially if you do your own prepwork first.

if people cant afford to spend 100-200. to have their hood painted proffesionaly, they should be out working instead of on the internet </TD></TR></TABLE>

really though. how about a tall, ice cold glass of stfu? there you go.

almost everyone here is a DIY'er. i'm sure all those "idiots" in the massive roll-on $50 paint job thread in the paint and body forum are blind, huh?

looks fantastic for what it is i'll be doing this myself in the summer.

 

Very nice. Cant wait to see the finished product. Are you going to end up doing the whole car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by (null).exe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From the "$50 Paint Job" thread...https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133

Started in Mid-October, got 6 coats on the hood, broke my foot skateboarding, just getting restarted.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm in the exact same position as you. Only I'm going to be painting while my I'm recovering. So it took 8 weeks for your foot to heal? I also can't wait to see some results. I've been waiting to do this for a while.

 

That paint is hot dude, keep it up,

anyone know about the longevity of the paint work, does it chip easily?

 

holy ****. that is really smooth. almost makes me want to some black. almost,

 

ok, if your broke and your car looks like *** then take a roller and paint it up

but honestly i think you would be hesitant if you saw one of these roller jobs in person. use your common sense, its done w/ a roller. nowhere even close to a spray application. it is impossible for the paint to lay out flat, you will have peel no matter how much sanding you do.

sorry for sounding negative, i cant stand to see things half-assed and yes a roll on paintjob is half-assed. you may as well use some spraybombs to paint your car.

btw, you wonder why people mainly roll on hoods and roofs? because you cant get into tight spots or angles/corners or rolled edges around lights and windows/such w/ a roller.

come on guys, this is just another rice-a-roni mod just like all the other cheap ricer parts that everyone buys because they are affordable like APC decals and altezzas.

 

I guess it looks good, but I'd much rather do it the correct way and spray my hood

 

This is from the civic forum for anyone wondering. There are a few civics that were completely painted like this and the turn out was amazing in comparison to what they looked like before. It costs about 200 dollars in total compared to 4k and it for 200 dollars it looks like a paint job you would pay 2k for. Not the best but pretty damn good.

 

He sanded the shiet out of it. Roller painting can get just as smooth if you sand it. Its all about the sanding. If he wet sands it with 1000-2000 grit and then polishes it it will look as good if not better than spray on. Having clear coat is a different storey but for 1 stage paint job its fine and more than adiquite for the doller amount.

 

Looks good. Keep up the updates.

 

i would never go as far as saying a roll on is as good as a spray. That spray will always come out better if the money is spent on a good spray. Roller will come out better than a spray if the spray costs 1000 dollars or less lol

 

...Ghost 5.9, not all people are made of money, there are ways around that to have a nice car....


Modified by George Knighton at 4:23 PM 12/17/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ECX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're a douche Ghost 5.9, not all people are made of money, there are ways around that to have a nice car. Shut the expletive up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

shouldnt call people names, thats why you have 98%

besides, im not saying you have to be made of money.....maco $500 for the whole car.

you may not have that kind of $$ but i hope you have enough to buy yourself a clue

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ghost 5.9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

shouldnt call people names, thats why you have 98%

besides, im not saying you have to be made of money.....maco $500 for the whole car.

you may not have that kind of $$ but i hope you have enough to buy yourself a clue </TD></TR></TABLE>

btw MAACO not 'maco' sucks. They do **** jobs. If you want a crappy paint job thats muddy as hell go ahead and pay your 500$.

As far as your comments to the OP why did you even post? Its very hard to do a rollon paint job. You could at least give him props for working hard on it. It looks damn good for a rollon job

 

you can use an airbrush for a 2 stage doing a panel at a time.
if you are patient.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ghost 5.9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, if your broke and your car looks like *** then take a roller and paint it up

but honestly i think you would be hesitant if you saw one of these roller jobs in person. use your common sense, its done w/ a roller. nowhere even close to a spray application. it is impossible for the paint to lay out flat, you will have peel no matter how much sanding you do.

sorry for sounding negative, i cant stand to see things half-assed and yes a roll on paintjob is half-assed. you may as well use some spraybombs to paint your car.

btw, you wonder why people mainly roll on hoods and roofs? because you cant get into tight spots or angles/corners or rolled edges around lights and windows/such w/ a roller.

come on guys, this is just another rice-a-roni mod just like all the other cheap ricer parts that everyone buys because they are affordable like APC decals and altezzas.</TD></TR></TABLE>


STFU YOU DUMDA$$. JUST BY READING YOUR POST YOU CAN TELL YOU HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS AND HAVE NEVER SEEN IT IN PERSON, SO WHY THE HELL WOULD YOU MAKE AN INPUT ON THIS?

I HAVE PERSONALLY DONE THIS STYLE OF PAINT MORE THAN ONCE AND I HAVE ENOUGH PERSONALLY HAVE EXPERIENCE TO KNOW THAT THIS IS A GREAT F-ING PAINT JOB.

SO TAKE YOUR S.O.B. TALK AND GTFO YOU F-ING D4MD A$$ FACE.

p.s. MAACO sucks at painting, there paint doesnt hold worth a crap, in a years time its going to have to be redone (in most cases and in my experience)

and as far as this paint laying flat it will when you mix it with m.s. it will and does lay flat. you dont know how much work goes into this paint so once again STFU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR_Se7en &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SO TAKE YOUR SOB TALK AND GTFO YOU F-ING D4MD A$$ FACE.</TD></TR></TABLE>


lmao. that made NO sense. but i think i agree

 

sorry i should of said son of a Itch (s.o.b.)

 

and this is why they call us hater-tech

 

chill out guys Ghost was just giving his opinion. it looks great for what it is but its sounds like theres plenty of time involved, and time is money! good job though it IS pretty shiny.