Starter "sticks" for a moment after starting ('04 S2k)
Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this...
The starter seems to stay engaged for just a moment after the engine fires up. The result is the starter getting "spun" pretty good for about a quarter of a second. This only happens on cold days and when the engine is cold. Engagement sounds great and the starter works well, but I'm worried about undue wear on the starter.
Any suggestions on how I may resolve this before the starter dies?
Thanks!
The starter seems to stay engaged for just a moment after the engine fires up. The result is the starter getting "spun" pretty good for about a quarter of a second. This only happens on cold days and when the engine is cold. Engagement sounds great and the starter works well, but I'm worried about undue wear on the starter.
Any suggestions on how I may resolve this before the starter dies?
Thanks!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fsp31 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this...
The starter seems to stay engaged for just a moment after the engine fires up. The result is the starter getting "spun" pretty good for about a quarter of a second. This only happens on cold days and when the engine is cold. Engagement sounds great and the starter works well, but I'm worried about undue wear on the starter.
Any suggestions on how I may resolve this before the starter dies?
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
This may surprise you, but it is in fact NOT the starter.
It's actually the timing chain tensioner not having enough pressure on the slack-side of the chain since oil pressure has not been primed after it bleeds down while it's off, and is more prone to occur when the car is driven in cooler weather, and when it sits longer than a day at a time.
Solution: buy/install a new timing chain tensioner...or wait for me to produce a manualy adjusted timing chain tensioner that I have in the works.
The starter seems to stay engaged for just a moment after the engine fires up. The result is the starter getting "spun" pretty good for about a quarter of a second. This only happens on cold days and when the engine is cold. Engagement sounds great and the starter works well, but I'm worried about undue wear on the starter.
Any suggestions on how I may resolve this before the starter dies?
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
This may surprise you, but it is in fact NOT the starter.
It's actually the timing chain tensioner not having enough pressure on the slack-side of the chain since oil pressure has not been primed after it bleeds down while it's off, and is more prone to occur when the car is driven in cooler weather, and when it sits longer than a day at a time.
Solution: buy/install a new timing chain tensioner...or wait for me to produce a manualy adjusted timing chain tensioner that I have in the works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingVR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This may surprise you, but it is in fact NOT the starter.
It's actually the timing chain tensioner not having enough pressure on the slack-side of the chain since oil pressure has not been primed after it bleeds down while it's off, and is more prone to occur when the car is driven in cooler weather, and when it sits longer than a day at a time.
Solution: buy/install a new timing chain tensioner...or wait for me to produce a manualy adjusted timing chain tensioner that I have in the works.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Never knew this.
This may surprise you, but it is in fact NOT the starter.
It's actually the timing chain tensioner not having enough pressure on the slack-side of the chain since oil pressure has not been primed after it bleeds down while it's off, and is more prone to occur when the car is driven in cooler weather, and when it sits longer than a day at a time.
Solution: buy/install a new timing chain tensioner...or wait for me to produce a manualy adjusted timing chain tensioner that I have in the works.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Never knew this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingVR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This may surprise you, but it is in fact NOT the starter.
It's actually the timing chain tensioner not having enough pressure on the slack-side of the chain since oil pressure has not been primed after it bleeds down while it's off, and is more prone to occur when the car is driven in cooler weather, and when it sits longer than a day at a time.
Solution: buy/install a new timing chain tensioner...or wait for me to produce a manualy adjusted timing chain tensioner that I have in the works.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said
This may surprise you, but it is in fact NOT the starter.
It's actually the timing chain tensioner not having enough pressure on the slack-side of the chain since oil pressure has not been primed after it bleeds down while it's off, and is more prone to occur when the car is driven in cooler weather, and when it sits longer than a day at a time.
Solution: buy/install a new timing chain tensioner...or wait for me to produce a manualy adjusted timing chain tensioner that I have in the works.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said
BTW,
What would the popularity of my manually-adjusted tensioner be anyway? I was going to make at least a dozen, but this and a few other ideas have me thinking of literally becoming a manufacturer of various products.
The OEM unit that HardTopGuy sells constantly sell for about $156 I think...I could make/sell my manual unit for MUCH LESS, with the added benefit that you will NEVER EVER have to worry about replacing it. I put a new OEM unit in mine a few months ago and while it DID eliminate the noise that the OP talked about, I still have a noise that most are not even aware of. The noise occurs and is audible between 4k RPM and 6k RPM, most prominent around 5k RPM. I recognize this from when I had my Honda CBR 600 F4 (NOTORIOUS for this problem that Honda will not fix) and my S has the same exact rattle sound. You can hear it when you accelerate gradually through the 4k - 6k RPM range. If you decelerate it will not produce the sound because the 'slack-side' of the chain becomes tightened.
I don't know if other people are getting this same sound, or it's something I have due to having 100k+ miles on my car. I'd like to hear how many others currently have this sound present on their S, or have in the past.
What would the popularity of my manually-adjusted tensioner be anyway? I was going to make at least a dozen, but this and a few other ideas have me thinking of literally becoming a manufacturer of various products.
The OEM unit that HardTopGuy sells constantly sell for about $156 I think...I could make/sell my manual unit for MUCH LESS, with the added benefit that you will NEVER EVER have to worry about replacing it. I put a new OEM unit in mine a few months ago and while it DID eliminate the noise that the OP talked about, I still have a noise that most are not even aware of. The noise occurs and is audible between 4k RPM and 6k RPM, most prominent around 5k RPM. I recognize this from when I had my Honda CBR 600 F4 (NOTORIOUS for this problem that Honda will not fix) and my S has the same exact rattle sound. You can hear it when you accelerate gradually through the 4k - 6k RPM range. If you decelerate it will not produce the sound because the 'slack-side' of the chain becomes tightened.
I don't know if other people are getting this same sound, or it's something I have due to having 100k+ miles on my car. I'd like to hear how many others currently have this sound present on their S, or have in the past.
i dont really know, i havnt pulled mine apart to change the tensioner yet, but i suppose if it never went bad like the oem ones it would be pretty popular
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Wow! I had never considered the timing chain tensioner. This motor has about 50k miles on it. I'll take a look at it.
Regarding the manual tensioner, how critical is the "torque" placed on the chain? Does it have to be very precise? Can I use a torque wrench? (I'm not very familiar with f20's... still stuck in a b series time warp)
Regarding the manual tensioner, how critical is the "torque" placed on the chain? Does it have to be very precise? Can I use a torque wrench? (I'm not very familiar with f20's... still stuck in a b series time warp)
Well, I haven't made the first batch yet, but it works like this:
1. INSTALL UNIT
2. Adjust threaded shaft until it starts to apply tension
3. Start engine and rev to 5k RPM (or wherever you hear the chain go into harmonics/rattle)
4. Continue to adjust tension until the harmonics/rattling stop/go away
5. Tighten Locking Nut and enjoy!
...simple as that, and it will never go bad on you down the road.
1. INSTALL UNIT
2. Adjust threaded shaft until it starts to apply tension
3. Start engine and rev to 5k RPM (or wherever you hear the chain go into harmonics/rattle)
4. Continue to adjust tension until the harmonics/rattling stop/go away
5. Tighten Locking Nut and enjoy!
...simple as that, and it will never go bad on you down the road.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingVR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I haven't made the first batch yet, but it works like this:
1. INSTALL UNIT
2. Adjust threaded shaft until it starts to apply tension
3. Start engine and rev to 5k RPM (or wherever you hear the chain go into harmonics/rattle)
4. Continue to adjust tension until the harmonics/rattling stop/go away
5. Tighten Locking Nut and enjoy!
...simple as that, and it will never go bad on you down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well... I dunno if i want to be a guinea pig for your timing chain... but....upload some pictures, and maybe we wil talk
1. INSTALL UNIT
2. Adjust threaded shaft until it starts to apply tension
3. Start engine and rev to 5k RPM (or wherever you hear the chain go into harmonics/rattle)
4. Continue to adjust tension until the harmonics/rattling stop/go away
5. Tighten Locking Nut and enjoy!
...simple as that, and it will never go bad on you down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well... I dunno if i want to be a guinea pig for your timing chain... but....upload some pictures, and maybe we wil talk
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Techno Tonis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well... I dunno if i want to be a guinea pig for your timing chain... but....upload some pictures, and maybe we wil talk
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't worry. Myself and JDM Knowledge will be Pig'n it up first.
well... I dunno if i want to be a guinea pig for your timing chain... but....upload some pictures, and maybe we wil talk
</TD></TR></TABLE>Don't worry. Myself and JDM Knowledge will be Pig'n it up first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingVR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW,
What would the popularity of my manually-adjusted tensioner be anyway? I was going to make at least a dozen, but this and a few other ideas have me thinking of literally becoming a manufacturer of various products.
The OEM unit that HardTopGuy sells constantly sell for about $156 I think...I could make/sell my manual unit for MUCH LESS, with the added benefit that you will NEVER EVER have to worry about replacing it. I put a new OEM unit in mine a few months ago and while it DID eliminate the noise that the OP talked about, I still have a noise that most are not even aware of. The noise occurs and is audible between 4k RPM and 6k RPM, most prominent around 5k RPM. I recognize this from when I had my Honda CBR 600 F4 (NOTORIOUS for this problem that Honda will not fix) and my S has the same exact rattle sound. You can hear it when you accelerate gradually through the 4k - 6k RPM range. If you decelerate it will not produce the sound because the 'slack-side' of the chain becomes tightened.
I don't know if other people are getting this same sound, or it's something I have due to having 100k+ miles on my car. I'd like to hear how many others currently have this sound present on their S, or have in the past.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sign me up
What would the popularity of my manually-adjusted tensioner be anyway? I was going to make at least a dozen, but this and a few other ideas have me thinking of literally becoming a manufacturer of various products.
The OEM unit that HardTopGuy sells constantly sell for about $156 I think...I could make/sell my manual unit for MUCH LESS, with the added benefit that you will NEVER EVER have to worry about replacing it. I put a new OEM unit in mine a few months ago and while it DID eliminate the noise that the OP talked about, I still have a noise that most are not even aware of. The noise occurs and is audible between 4k RPM and 6k RPM, most prominent around 5k RPM. I recognize this from when I had my Honda CBR 600 F4 (NOTORIOUS for this problem that Honda will not fix) and my S has the same exact rattle sound. You can hear it when you accelerate gradually through the 4k - 6k RPM range. If you decelerate it will not produce the sound because the 'slack-side' of the chain becomes tightened.
I don't know if other people are getting this same sound, or it's something I have due to having 100k+ miles on my car. I'd like to hear how many others currently have this sound present on their S, or have in the past.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sign me up
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neeman77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not the timing chain tensioner its the starter...the starter bendix sicks and does not retract from the flywheel. You need a new starter. I had the same problem and replaced the TCT for no reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Be careful...while yes, it CAN also be the starter, but it would be more frequent if it truly were the starter. The TCT will usually only make it's noise when the car has sat for more than one day, and more frequent when the temps are cooler.
I replaced my TCT and that "starter sound" went away, but I still get the 4k - 6k RPM rattle.
Be careful...while yes, it CAN also be the starter, but it would be more frequent if it truly were the starter. The TCT will usually only make it's noise when the car has sat for more than one day, and more frequent when the temps are cooler.
I replaced my TCT and that "starter sound" went away, but I still get the 4k - 6k RPM rattle.
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you know... i've seen this thread for a while now and i ignored it until now. i used to have the same problem on my old ap1... would happen randomly but it makes sense now. learn something new every day
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrjingles8705 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One word... SEARCH. </TD></TR></TABLE>
uh... what?
uh... what?
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