I thought I would share our results of a test we did tonight on our DB8......

we have a thread about a test I was trying to do with Pro1's and stock GSR cams......The car we are using had some issues but they have been resolved and we decided to do a test on a set of Blox Type B cams that we had ( thanks Phil )

Here is a mod list and picture of the car....



84mm Bore
89mm stroke
9.5:1 cr
Stock GSR head
supertech valve's, springs, and retainers
JG intake manifold with 70mm TB
Spoolin Performance TopMount turbo manifold
GT35R BB turbo
Type-R transmission 4.4fd

1000cc injectors with FJO driver

I am posting a SAE graph and a STD graph........if you take the average of both you get 507whp and 303tq

These test were done on a DynoJet 224x on 91oct california pump gas @ 14 - 15 PSI

street tuning and dyno tuning was done with the stock cams with the cam gears at +3 intake and +2 Exhaust.

Rev Limiter is set to 9500 but I let off a little early.......car revs quick....

Spark plugs used were NGK 4554-8 and were checked after every run. Spark plugs looked perfect! Plug gap was .028

AFR's were the same between both runs and recorded an 11.9 avg

Blue Line is Blox cams and were installed with a valve adjustment and no tuning! We didn't have to touch the tune, we just bolted them in and did a base run! the cam gear settings were the same for both cams.

car had a small exhasut leak with the stock cams, but I dont think it effected it that much but who knows...

and last but not least......We were surprised as anyone else that we did not have to touch the tune.......Im going to dyno this car again to make sure I am still getting the same results.





Modified by RedZone at 1:38 AM 11/18/2007


Modified by RedZone at 4:53 PM 11/18/2007


Modified by RedZone at 12:33 AM 11/19/2007

 

very nice numbers for such a simple setup with stock head

 

nice numbers jeremy

 

need to get me a set of some blox type b's

 

bump for the nicist DB out there!

this is my insparation haha

 

very nice mr redzone.

 

So how do you change cams, keeping the boost the same, not change the tune, make 80 more whp, and the a/f ratio stay the same? If the boost doesn't go up, how did the computer put more fuel in to make up for the change in hp? When you change something that changes the VE of the engine in a speed density system, the car will run richer or leaner because the computer only reads manifold pressure.

 

Wow!

I love the linearity of the Blox power curve and how it towers over the GSR's curve from 4500 to 6000 rpm. Must be fun to drive!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how do you change cams, keeping the boost the same, not change the tune, make 80 more whp, and the a/f ratio stay the same? If the boost doesn't go up, how did the computer put more fuel in to make up for the change in hp? When you change something that changes the VE of the engine in a speed density system, the car will run richer or leaner because the computer only reads manifold pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>


glad im not the only one that noticed that. clean engine bay though

 

haha

 

It sounds like they change the AFR to around the same ratio for both cam types. That's what I got from the post.

 

sounds very believable i used run that sam cam until it couldn't take no more so the obvious happened and it cracked i was lucky there's no internal damage so out with blox b and in with the all motor stage 2 skunk 2 cams *not pro series!*
the setup was almost the same setup except it was a 82mm ls/v everthing identical
except tuning on 94 octane we where thrilled with the power of these cams i went from ctr/jdm itr/roller rocker/bloxb/s2s2 and at 14psi on a *dynapack* 451 292 trq
we were going to up the boost but we hit our goal at such a low boost level considering the car was a street car so went the local *dynojet* to do a 4 gear pull
1 week later since official dyno day the numbers at same boost level were 493 299 trq by far for the win for the nicest idleing jam making cam hands down skunk 2 stage 2's for the win!!!!!!!!!!

 

looks like alot of power from a 35r at 14lbs?

 

no a/f graph? i agree w/ tony. u had to have added some fuel with the Blox cam

 

ohhh sorry thats the only last difference i run a pt6776s which is commonly known as the t3/t67 ho

 

damn mad power mad propz wishing i didn't part out my complete turbo setup now i am jealous jeremy.... i would have tuned with skunk stage 1s though sigh

congrats on the 500whp+ club

 

nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how do you change cams, keeping the boost the same, not change the tune, make 80 more whp, and the a/f ratio stay the same? If the boost doesn't go up, how did the computer put more fuel in to make up for the change in hp? When you change something that changes the VE of the engine in a speed density system, the car will run richer or leaner because the computer only reads manifold pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>


jeremy youre in for it on this Tonys gonna eat yo' *** up

 

Look at how the boost comes in, anyone who has tested gsr cmas to even itr/ctr cams will know what i am talking about. It seems like the boost was just turned up.

 

My post from the other thread:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like you just turned the boost up lol.
Do you have a datalog of the manifold pressure ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

after reading a few of the comments (tony1, mtber, and turbo-charged) something just doesnt add up for me....do you have a log of the manifold pressure and AFRs??

 

More information is necessary but I will say one thing. I'm not so sure the pressure went up a significant amount. The most I can see it going up is 1 psi. The reason I think that is traditionally with a GT35r, when boost pressure increases, midrange doesn't increase. The turbo just takes an extra 100-300rpm to reach max pressure. The Blox cams show a huge gain in midrange which can only be attributed to the change in cams or if the GSR cams were not tuned properly. A change in boost pressure would not show such gains.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ObeyDB8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for the nicist DB out there!

this is my insparation haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

yo....inspiration or aspiration? lol ... what you said was like a hybrid mix of both words....you da funny gai man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how do you change cams, keeping the boost the same, not change the tune, make 80 more whp, and the a/f ratio stay the same? If the boost doesn't go up, how did the computer put more fuel in to make up for the change in hp? When you change something that changes the VE of the engine in a speed density system, the car will run richer or leaner because the computer only reads manifold pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok you are right...I checked the A/F again and the run with the blox cams was 12.3....but we did not touch the adjustments....

I never said the boost leval chaged, it was the same for both cams....14 - 15lbs at most when I hit 8500.
I respect you Tony and I dont want to feed you any wrong info...just let me kow what you are looking for and I'll tell you about it.

 

wow.....the bonerz