Hi, I just received a set of gold GT3s with polished lips in a trade. They are the wheels I was looking for, but they have a few rock chips here and there (they are used), and I want to make them look like new again (and I'm not too sure whether or not I like the gold look). I have a few questions about going about this:


1. What do I do to protect the lip? I'm going to aircraft strip the paint off, but what will this do to the lip? Can I just tape it off or not, and if not, what do I have to do after I've stripped and painted the center part to keep the lip polished?

2. Do I have to strip the centercaps or can I just sand and paint? I think they might be plastic and I don't know whether or not the aircraft stripper will damage them.


I read the FAQ sticky about painting wheels, but it doesn't exactly delve into details and I've never done this before. Last couple questions:


3. How do you go about physically painting the rims, and by that I mean do you do the back first, then front? How do you get in the cracks between the spokes?

4. Do you wet sand in between each coat? How many coats?

5. Do you use primer first, and how many coats of that + wetsanding?

6. Clearcoat " " " " ?

I'll be using the Duplicolor wheel paint and I'm thinking of using either the bronze or the graphite. Any and all help is appreciated, thank you very much. Please don't just point me to the sticky, I've read it already and these are the questions I have left over. Thank you.

And the obligatory

 

1. Strip (sandblasting, paint-stripper, etc...)
2. Scuff (sandpaper, scuff pad, etc...)
* Primer (optional)
3. Paint (spray can, automotive paint, powdercoating, etc...)
4. Clear (spray can, automotive clear, powdercoating, etc...)
5. Dry (air, heat, bake, etc...)
*Wetsand and polish (optional)

If the lip was polished and clearcoated it's just going to strip the clearcoat out. So DO NOT mask it unless the polish is flawless. Although I think the stripper will work right through the tape.

If the centercaps are painted then yes you can use aircraft stripper on it, scuff and paint. Becareful, the aircraft stripper can work right through some materials. Read the directions on the stripper.

After stripping and scuffing, mask the lip, flip the wheel upside down and paint the back (inner) part first. As for laying the paint down, it's all up to you. Do several light coats. After the first coat the wheel should NOT be fully covered with paint. Work your way through it slowly.

No. Wetsanding should be done last. In other words, you paint, clear, dry (overnight, or 2 days) then wetsand. The more clear you lay, easier to pull out the best shine after wetsanding.

Primer is used before laying paint. It's not really necessary unless you made some sanding marks or scratches along scuffing. I'd say just enough so the area is fully covered. I used about 2 coats.


You lay clearcoat down after the paint. I've used almost one can per wheel for this. About 5-6 light coats and 2 medium coats. It depends on what look you going for. Lots of clear and proper wetsanding can pull out a glass like shine.

Tips:
- Get the big aircraft stripper in a can (not the spray can) along with a brush that can withstand the stripper. Cost me about $20 at local autoparts store.

- Get some strong wire brushes to brush off the stripper. Some folks say they spray water and it was gone, that was NOT the case with mine.

- Prepping is the key to any paint job. Stripping and scuffing should be done longest. DO NOT RUSH THE JOB.

- Protect your skin at all times with aircraft stripper. I didn't notice at first but at my second wheel I started to feel these stings that felt like cat bites.

- Patience is the key

Good luck

 

Wow. Dude you are absolutely amazing. Thank you so much, that was every last thing I needed to know.

doubleshotz, so hot right now.

 

Last question and then I can start.

1. Let's say I'm going to primer, paint, and clear. What time line am I looking at? Like how long between coats of primer, between primer and paint, between coats of paint, between paint and clear, and coats of clear?

I've done a little research and some people say spray the paint immediately over the primer, while others say wait an hour. Some people say spray clear immediately over the paint and some are saying wait at least a day... This makes me confused!

EDIT: Sorry, sorry, last one I promise!

2. What primer and clear do you recommend? I know my paint but I don't know much about primer or clear.

Thanks again.


Modified by SilentEdge at 3:03 PM 11/1/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilentEdge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Let's say I'm going to primer, paint, and clear. What time line am I looking at? Like how long between coats of primer, between primer and paint, between coats of paint, between paint and clear, and coats of clear?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Each process should be done within a hour.
For example, each coat of prime was between 5-10 mins (I didn't use much primer). Let it sit about 30 mins after the final coat of primer.
10 mins between each coat of paint.
Let the final coat sit about 20 mins before laying down clear.
Do same for clear.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilentEdge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done a little research and some people say spray the paint immediately over the primer, while others say wait an hour. Some people say spray clear immediately over the paint and some are saying wait at least a day... This makes me confused!</TD></TR></TABLE>
It depends on what primer you using. I used primer sealer in a can. Since I didn't use/need much primer, it dried fairly quick. While doing this and have any doubts, you can always read the back of the can for directions for a safe call.
You can also buy the sandable primer if that's what you desire.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilentEdge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. What primer and clear do you recommend? I know my paint but I don't know much about primer or clear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Generally speaking, I'd stick with same brand primer, paint, and clear. (show some love to your brand)
If you chose Dupli-color, go all out and buy everything from them.
As far as clearcoating,
this was my first time using clearcoat in a can and it was pretty disappointing (compared to automotive clear). Regardless, it does the job for the wheels.
Clear might not look like it's being applied at first 2-3 light coats, but don't trip, it's there.
Do NOT go spraying all over the wheel like you tagging (graffiti) on the wall.

I might do a DIY write up on this since I couldn't find much info on HT neither.
Oh yea.......Heineken makes you a better painter

 

Awesome man, thank you so much. Does a few good Sierra Nevadas make you as good a painter as Heineken? I think it would be a great idea if you did a write up. It would be nice to have something much more in depth than the sticky FAQ up top. You can basically copy-paste anything you need out of here and you'd have a great write-up.

I'm going to go Dupli-color for sure, I already have the paint I'm going to use. I'll just grab the primer and clear and start this weekend.

Last question I SWEAR!

1. How long after everything (including wetsanding) do I have to wait until I can put the wheels on the car? Basically, how long until the clear is cured so I don't break off the paint or anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilentEdge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does a few good Sierra Nevadas make you as good a painter as Heineken?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ONLY if we're talking BIG FOOT!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilentEdge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. How long after everything (including wetsanding) do I have to wait until I can put the wheels on the car? Basically, how long until the clear is cured so I don't break off the paint or anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>
After laying the final clear down, air dry them 2 days indoors to cure.
If the cleared surfaced appears and feels smooth and glossy, it's ready for wetsanding.
After wetsanding and buffing (rubbing compound, polishing compound, wax) it can go on right away or if you are paranoid just let it sit a couple hours and throw them on (letting it sit does nothing but relax your mind).

After the wheels are on...focus on MAINTENANCE.
Anybody with money can floss a $5000 paintjob but only proper maintenance will keep them shining like the day the were finished or even better for a long period.

More to come on a DIY write-up(with pictures) real soon

 

Sure people can floss a $5000 paintjob, but I'll be damned if they can floss a priceless job like mine!

Ok, maybe worthless? We'll see how it goes. I will definitely do all I can to keep them in good shape. Do the write up man! I will be the very first person to comment and/or "give mad JDM props y0" whenever anyone needs help with their wheel painting endeavors.

 

instead of taping rub vasaline on the lip and when you finish just wipe of really easy and no hasel