Anyone ever repaired stripped headbolt threads in the block?
Heli-coil, but then you run into the problem of different metals expanding at different rates. You might also be able to take it to a shop, have them weld up the hole and re-tap it. But then you are putting alot of heat into the block and I'm not sure how well it would hold up. sorry dude
2 problems with that
1. the holes are ratehr deep
2. in order to tap for the helicoils the bore has to be made much larger which
means something has to be done about the dowels
1. the holes are ratehr deep
2. in order to tap for the helicoils the bore has to be made much larger which
means something has to be done about the dowels
I think you are SOL on an aluminum block.
I dont know how many ft/lbs a helicoil(or whatever those things are called) are rated for, and if they even make them that long.
Let us know what you find out or come up with, it will be good to know.
I dont know how many ft/lbs a helicoil(or whatever those things are called) are rated for, and if they even make them that long.
Let us know what you find out or come up with, it will be good to know.
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means something has to be done about the dowels

Not really sure what you can do. Try taking it to a well know domestic shop, they break **** all the time...
just take it to a machine shop they will know what to do. i got my turbo mani helicoiled and it has been fine for about 5 months now.
im thinking if the cost of repair exceeds 200 then im just gonna trash it.
maybe cut it in half and use as a display
maybe cut it in half and use as a display
The repair can be done easily, but time consuming....
[Modified by 2point6, 11:05 PM 6/20/2002]
im thinking if the cost of repair exceeds 200 then im just gonna trash it.
maybe cut it in half and use as a display
maybe cut it in half and use as a display
[Modified by 2point6, 11:05 PM 6/20/2002]
a friend of mine had a similar problem. wouldve trashed the block but it was a resleeved block so itd be such a waste. what we did was helicoiled it, using it on an extension bit to reach down there. its been holdin up for about 5 months now on about 1.0 bar of boost.
What about running some sort of head stud kit, and then just welding in the one striped stud. It'll kinda screw you up for the future of the motor, but it's another option to think about... Bevel out the hole, put in the stud, and fill up the bevel with weld... not sure what you'd use to weld it, but... Just brainstorming...
What about running some sort of head stud kit, and then just welding in the one striped stud. It'll kinda screw you up for the future of the motor, but it's another option to think about... Bevel out the hole, put in the stud, and fill up the bevel with weld... not sure what you'd use to weld it, but... Just brainstorming...
I tried it once to see what would happen hehe.
It was fun, they almost looked like they were mixing kinda.
Then the metal cooled and the whole spot where I had welded cracked and fell on the ground, big hole in the metal. haha.
It was fun, they almost looked like they were mixing kinda.
Then the metal cooled and the whole spot where I had welded cracked and fell on the ground, big hole in the metal. haha.
Just do what 2Point6 said.....use Timeserts
http://www.artsautomotive.com/timesert.htm
I take the liberty of quotting: "Timeserts are one-piece steel thread repair inserts. When installed correctly, they are stronger than the original threads. Since they are one-piece they will not unravel like helicoil inserts can. These are before and after pictures of a Honda transmission which (I suspect) someone cross-threaded a bolt into. When the bolt was removed the aluminum threads came out with bolt. The top picture is the bolt hole with no threads. To install a Timesert, the hole is first drilled oversized. Then a countersink tool is used to make the top of the hole a little larger. This allows the Timesert to sit flush with the surface. Next, the hole is tapped to a larger size. The Timesert is threaded into the newly tapped threads with a driver that expands the Timesert so it does not come out. I like to put some Loctite on the outside of the Timesert and stake the top of the Timesert in place for good measure. The bottom picture is the end result - a permanent repair that will probably outlast the transmission."
We routinely insert aerospace aluminum structrues before the first bolt goes in, if we think there is need for routine fastner removal. Aluminum and steel bolts if temperature cycled are not the nicest of partners.
Regards,
BigMoose
http://www.artsautomotive.com/timesert.htm
I take the liberty of quotting: "Timeserts are one-piece steel thread repair inserts. When installed correctly, they are stronger than the original threads. Since they are one-piece they will not unravel like helicoil inserts can. These are before and after pictures of a Honda transmission which (I suspect) someone cross-threaded a bolt into. When the bolt was removed the aluminum threads came out with bolt. The top picture is the bolt hole with no threads. To install a Timesert, the hole is first drilled oversized. Then a countersink tool is used to make the top of the hole a little larger. This allows the Timesert to sit flush with the surface. Next, the hole is tapped to a larger size. The Timesert is threaded into the newly tapped threads with a driver that expands the Timesert so it does not come out. I like to put some Loctite on the outside of the Timesert and stake the top of the Timesert in place for good measure. The bottom picture is the end result - a permanent repair that will probably outlast the transmission."
We routinely insert aerospace aluminum structrues before the first bolt goes in, if we think there is need for routine fastner removal. Aluminum and steel bolts if temperature cycled are not the nicest of partners.
Regards,
BigMoose
The only dificult thing to using timeserts Is that instead of going in flush, they need to be counter sunk into the block. PM me if you have question on install. I will try to post some pics of How I have been doing this.
The only dificult thing to using timeserts Is that instead of going in flush, they need to be counter sunk into the block. PM me if you have question on install. I will try to post some pics of How I have been doing this.
The only dificult thing to using timeserts Is that instead of going in flush, they need to be counter sunk into the block. PM me if you have question on install. I will try to post some pics of How I have been doing this.
I'm surprised you guys don't go a looking.................
Here is the manufacturer's page. Real simple by hand. Drill, Counterbore, Tap and Insert.
http://www.timesert.com/mtrcsert.htm
As long as there is sufficient block material, and I believe there will be. The Timeserted stud will have the "strongest" retention of them all.
We use Keenserts at work on new installations and you can get them here: http://www.auveco.com/proddetheli.htm
I think the timeserts are better for high strength thread repair.
Regards,
BigMoose
Here is the manufacturer's page. Real simple by hand. Drill, Counterbore, Tap and Insert.
http://www.timesert.com/mtrcsert.htm
As long as there is sufficient block material, and I believe there will be. The Timeserted stud will have the "strongest" retention of them all.
We use Keenserts at work on new installations and you can get them here: http://www.auveco.com/proddetheli.htm
I think the timeserts are better for high strength thread repair.
Regards,
BigMoose


