I just bought a 1990 h22 accord and I just cant seem to find out whats wrong with it. Its throwing a straight CEL, but it blinks one time even if I dont jump the cel. It wont hold a idle, wont rev up past 4kish rpm and bogs under WOT. Ive been told it could be the o2 sensor, so I replaced it. I also found that the oil pressure sending unit was broken so I replaced it, and ive been told that the ecu might be bad. There is also a wierd buzzing noise coming from the injectors aswell, I have a video to show whats going on.


any help appreciated!

 

Did you ask the previous owner who did the swap?

Does the injector click come on only after the engine is started or the moment it is turned to ignition? I don't know a whole lot about injector wiring, but is there a chance maybe it got wired to a constant power or something? Wiring may be shot, or they may be a problem witht them where they are dumping too much fuel or not enough.

I hope you find out man

 

What you're describing sounds like limp mode, yes.

 

Sounds like a little bit more than limp mode. Most ECU's will turn to limp mode and will still run the vehilce half decently and limit your RPM's. This engine is barely running at all.

A solid CEL off the hop is usually an ECU problem. That is not your cel blinking once. That is a solid CEL situation. The blink is actually when the car has finished it's initial test of the circuit. It shots of for a moment and then when it returns a fail signal the CEL comes back on.

Talk to the previous owner and get all the information you can about the swap. What year or OBD are the Engine and ECU. Was it running when you bought it? That type of information will help pin point what's wrong.

 

Well I bought the car for a grand with a bad trannsmission, and it didnt run well. When I bought it, it would idle great but as soon as you give it the smallest amount of throttle it will shut off. I looked at the ecu and he was running a po6 (virgin) on it. He gave me a p13 to go with it but he said that ecu was bad. I hook up the p13 and it runs just as shown on the video. Well I didnt think anything of it, my main concern was the tranny. Well I bought it and 5 hours later I swaped a h23 tranny in there. The car was converted from obd0 to obd1, if that helps any.

 

Your either going to have to get that D15 Civic P06 ECU chipped and tuned for an H22 or buy yourself a good P13. The H22 won't run verywell off the stock P06 maps. The proper ECU should be your first step in getting this thing up and running.

 

I am trying to borrow a p13 ecu first to see if thats the issue but no one in VA has a damn p13.

 

bump

 

Are you bump'n to find an ECU?

Come on all you VA H22 P13 boyz, help this guy out. He isn't going to be able to figure out his problem until he gets himself a working H22 (equivalent) ECU.

 

yea thats limp mode 1st see what your check engine ligh is for...and check injectors and all pushed down the clips cause thats what happend to mine and that was the problem pushed them down and runs like a champ

 

He is getting a solid CEL.....check your notes for what a solid CEL code is.......I think it is an ECU problem.

You can try this to see if there are specific codes that your are getting. You are going to be getting some wacky codes because the H22 will be trying to send VTEC and Knock signals to the ECU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QUOTED From PGMFI Wiki Library &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Solid Check Engine Light

If the CEL is lit solid and does not blink (after jumping the service check connector on OBD1 ) and the car runs poorly the following could be the problem:

A faulty ECU (means any other component failure other than listed here)
Poor soldering connections
Check Sum error
Faulty program stored in the ROM
Faulty ROM chip
Faulty 74HC373 chip </TD></TR></TABLE>

His ECU is stock so from "Poor soldering" down does not come into consideration here.

link from PGMFI for how to check your solid CEL
http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Library/CEL


Modified by GhostAccord at 10:26 AM 10/15/2007

 

When I open up the stock p13 it looks great inside with no visible damage, a friend of mine is going to let me use his p13 today to check if thats the problem,I'll keep it posted.

 

Cool...once you get that Good ECU in there you will be able to trouble shoot and get the codes from it and go from there.

The injector wiring does look a bit crude on your vid. could be something with the impedance of the injectors....high or low as well.

 

When I unpluged the clips the buzzing stopped, every injector was buzzing until i unpluged the clips. I also found that the knock sensor was brocken off from the block, can that cause the motor to run like that?

 

Yes that would do it. You should probably replace that...

As for the buzzing injectors do you know what injectors are in the car right now? Stock H22 injectors are peak and hold (low impedance) like our accords. Make sure they are wired to a resistor box. The injector wires coming from the ECU should go to an aluminum resistor box and then to the injectors.

Check the ECU;
Measure voltage between A23 {-) terminal and the following terminals:
. No. 1 Fuel injector: A1 (+) terminal.
. No. 2 fuel injector: A3 (+) terminal.
. No. 3 fuel injector: A5 (+) terminal.
. No. 4 tuel injector: A2 (+) terminal.

There should be battery voltage (approx. 12v)

Check the injectors;
Check the resistance between the two terminals on the injectors. It should read between 1.2 - 1.5 ohms.

Check the resistor box;


This may help you hunt down your injector buzz


Modified by GhostAccord at 8:25 PM 11/2/2007

 

Alright, update. I put a new ecu in and now the car idles and runs. but realllyy shitty, timing must be off, it back fires through the intake and bad. All the timing marks line up perfectly. and I really cant find the service connector anywhere (previous owner must of gotten rid of it or something) so I cant check the CEL

 

Have you tried jumping it via ECU? There is a how to in the EG FAQ

 

Okay update, I found the jumper but for some reason it was a male plug and not like your usual femail plug. well I shorted it out and the CEL gave me 12 long beeps. ok im like wtf, this doesnt look right. Any help appreciated!

 

the problem is the ect. The car is not seeing any coolant to the ecu. trust me!!!
this guy had th same prob.

And thats whats keeping you in limp mode.


D13 on the H22 ecu is the ECT sensor input. The H22 wire colors are Yel/Blue for the input. the other wire, (Grn/Wht) is the sensor ground.

On the F23 ecu the pin out is C26 for the ECT input. the input wire color is Red/Wht, the sensor ground is Grn/Blk

Make sure those are hooked up to the sensor on the side of the H22 cylinder head, right under the dizzy.

That should bring the ecu out of limp mode.