Broken spark plug - in head
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 13,699
Likes: 99
From: MARYLAND
OK, so I was taking out my plugs when the top of the plug sheared off!

Anybody know what size EZ out or bolt extractor will get the rest of the plug out? Trying not to take the head off.

Anybody know what size EZ out or bolt extractor will get the rest of the plug out? Trying not to take the head off.
Ouch. I don't know exactly how to get that out.
I'm curious though, how hard where you trying to get it out? Theres a chance you've stripped threads or seized the threads. May take as much as pulling the head.
Let us know what you find out
I'm curious though, how hard where you trying to get it out? Theres a chance you've stripped threads or seized the threads. May take as much as pulling the head.
Let us know what you find out
Not sure if you changed the plugs last but it's a really good idea to always put a little anti-sieze on the threads before putting new ones in. I guess that's probably why...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironcheftony »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try stick a longer flat head down in there and wedge it in and twist it out, something of that method</TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever you do dont do what this guy said it seems like a good idea untilyou get lil metal scrapings into your head and is skratches up your head and piston walls youll be sorry then for sure just take the head off man
i know its a bitch with timing and **** thats why they need to come out with a tool that locks your cam gears and cams in place so they dont turn when you change the timing belt they also need to come out with a cam lock so that ppl cant steal your car too but i dont know good luck with your solutions to your problem i have never seen that either
goodluck dawg
whatever you do dont do what this guy said it seems like a good idea untilyou get lil metal scrapings into your head and is skratches up your head and piston walls youll be sorry then for sure just take the head off man
i know its a bitch with timing and **** thats why they need to come out with a tool that locks your cam gears and cams in place so they dont turn when you change the timing belt they also need to come out with a cam lock so that ppl cant steal your car too but i dont know good luck with your solutions to your problem i have never seen that either
goodluck dawg
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,951
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slyfox_racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i know its a bitch with timing and **** thats why they need to come out with a tool that locks your cam gears and cams in place so they dont turn when you change the timing belt they also need to come out with a cam lock so that ppl cant steal your car too but i dont know good luck with your solutions to your problem i have never seen that either
goodluck dawg</TD></TR></TABLE>
B18C engines have holes in the camshafts and the cam rails that you stick a punch or small screwdriver in to hold the cams in place. The holes line up when you set #1 cylinder to TDC. Worked like a charm when I removed my cam gears to replace the camshaft oil seals.
Not sure if the B18B has these or not. I would think it would, though.
i know its a bitch with timing and **** thats why they need to come out with a tool that locks your cam gears and cams in place so they dont turn when you change the timing belt they also need to come out with a cam lock so that ppl cant steal your car too but i dont know good luck with your solutions to your problem i have never seen that either
goodluck dawg</TD></TR></TABLE>
B18C engines have holes in the camshafts and the cam rails that you stick a punch or small screwdriver in to hold the cams in place. The holes line up when you set #1 cylinder to TDC. Worked like a charm when I removed my cam gears to replace the camshaft oil seals.
Not sure if the B18B has these or not. I would think it would, though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not sure if the B18B has these or not. I would think it would, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They do. I used a drill bit to hold mine in place.
Not sure if the B18B has these or not. I would think it would, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They do. I used a drill bit to hold mine in place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
B18C engines have holes in the camshafts and the cam rails that you stick a punch or small screwdriver in to hold the cams in place. The holes line up when you set #1 cylinder to TDC. Worked like a charm when I removed my cam gears to replace the camshaft oil seals.
Not sure if the B18B has these or not. I would think it would, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my B18A does also. all of teh B must have then.
to the OP. i have never seen that happen either that's some crazy ****. i hope you find a way to fix it. G'L
B18C engines have holes in the camshafts and the cam rails that you stick a punch or small screwdriver in to hold the cams in place. The holes line up when you set #1 cylinder to TDC. Worked like a charm when I removed my cam gears to replace the camshaft oil seals.
Not sure if the B18B has these or not. I would think it would, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my B18A does also. all of teh B must have then.
to the OP. i have never seen that happen either that's some crazy ****. i hope you find a way to fix it. G'L
Take the head off...how the expletive did that happen though? I guess this is why we change our plugs, but to be honest ive never seen that. Either way good luck getting that out..im sure its gonna be a bitch.
ok well I have seen this happen a few times due to my profession... The only way to get that out is to get an extractor or reverse out tool. If that doesnt work try drilling the hole close to the size of the spark plug then re thread the hole (make sure to use lots of anti-seize). if worse comes to worse, there is a kit that has everything you need to install complete new threads. Is does work and actually is stronger than stock. Pulling the head really wont be much help,I think. You can find all the drill bits, extractors, and taps at a NAPA, if there is one near. good luck!
and o yeah, make sure to turn the engine over a few times without the new plug in so it blows all the junk out. I would atleast try to get it out before you pull the head.
A great reason not to use Denso plugs. 
Sorry to say, but you will probably have to remove the head. Something similar happened to me with a compression tester and it is almost impossible to get anything that deep in the spark plug hole to extract anything.

Sorry to say, but you will probably have to remove the head. Something similar happened to me with a compression tester and it is almost impossible to get anything that deep in the spark plug hole to extract anything.
I was stupid in my younger days and over torqued a spark plug and broke it off, leaving the threads behind. I was not able to fix it myself so I had a shop do it for me. They re-threaded it and all is well. Good luck!
ez outs would work its just how would you get the leverage to turn it once its in the spark plug hole? plus you would need to be careful to not drop it in the cylinder i mean i had a t fitting where my oem oil pressure sender was because i have a turbo and that's where my feed line is coming from and the t-fitting broke on me three days ago i had to ez out it out and it was a lil difficult even with room to spare but if you want to brave it out and try an easy out i think its the easiest way rather than takin the head off and doin it that way goodluck bro seriously
Even if you could remove that with an EZout, the center electrode will most likely break and fall into the cylinder. You are going to have to pull the head.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 13,699
Likes: 99
From: MARYLAND
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even if you could remove that with an EZout, the center electrode will most likely break and fall into the cylinder. You are going to have to pull the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if that happens, I could pull the head - or I could just use one of those extendable magnetic pick-up things to get it.
My plugs are actually NGKs - those Denso's pictured are actually from the Type R forum where I found a similar thread and brought it back from the dead. The guy from that thread did successfully remove the plug with an EZout, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this works.
I have an extractor bit firmly planted in the remaining plug threads, but it failed to come out under moderate force (I could have used a breaker bar, but that's how I got myself into this little mess). Now I'm letting PB blaster do some magic, and hopefully it will come out after a few days of soaking - and if that doesn't work, I'll apply some heat.
The head will only come off as a last resort.
And yes, I have anti-seize on all the new plugs I put in...
Well if that happens, I could pull the head - or I could just use one of those extendable magnetic pick-up things to get it.
My plugs are actually NGKs - those Denso's pictured are actually from the Type R forum where I found a similar thread and brought it back from the dead. The guy from that thread did successfully remove the plug with an EZout, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this works.
I have an extractor bit firmly planted in the remaining plug threads, but it failed to come out under moderate force (I could have used a breaker bar, but that's how I got myself into this little mess). Now I'm letting PB blaster do some magic, and hopefully it will come out after a few days of soaking - and if that doesn't work, I'll apply some heat.
The head will only come off as a last resort.
And yes, I have anti-seize on all the new plugs I put in...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM97EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well I have seen this happen a few times due to my profession... The only way to get that out is to get an extractor or reverse out tool. If that doesnt work try drilling the hole close to the size of the spark plug then re thread the hole (make sure to use lots of anti-seize). if worse comes to worse, there is a kit that has everything you need to install complete new threads. Is does work and actually is stronger than stock. Pulling the head really wont be much help,I think. You can find all the drill bits, extractors, and taps at a NAPA, if there is one near. good luck!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
remind me not to go to your shop........ Bottom line..... take the head off and expletive with it on a bench. trying to fix it while its still on the block is just gunna be a pain in the a$$. atleast with it off you'll have more meneuverablitly and you wont have to worry about getting metal shavings and what not in the combustion chamber.
</TD></TR></TABLE> remind me not to go to your shop........ Bottom line..... take the head off and expletive with it on a bench. trying to fix it while its still on the block is just gunna be a pain in the a$$. atleast with it off you'll have more meneuverablitly and you wont have to worry about getting metal shavings and what not in the combustion chamber.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 13,699
Likes: 99
From: MARYLAND
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by be.twenty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
good luck mang!</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks!
good luck mang!</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks!









