Well, my rear Skunk2 camber kit had been sitting in my garage for about 3 months, so I finally decided to install it. I sprayed a bit of PB blaster on all the bolts, and the first bolt didn't want to break loose. I used a breaker bar, and after a few tries, pop! I thought that the bolt broke loose! But no, it was the sound of the bolt's head snapping off. So I got the other two bolt loosened on the passenger side and moved on to the driver's side.

Heated up the same bolt (but on the driver's side) that was stubborn on the passenger side, let it sit, then tapped it with a hammer while spraying PB blaster. That one came out, along with the other 2 on that side.

My question is, what's the best method to remove the bolt? I tried using vise clamps (adjustable) and that's just stripping the threads on the bolt. I was thinking of using a cut-off wheel and cutting off the bolt between each end on the bushings, and then right where that weld-on circlish nut is at.. Not sure though, anybody have any suggestions? See the pictures below.

 

Drill a 3/16" hole a few mm into the broken bolt, and get a bolt extractor for a 3/16" hole from a hardware store.

Sears carries a nice kit.

 

Thank you, I will try that. Hopefully I didn't screw up the threads too much so it's hard to get the bolt out.

 

Did you use pb blaster correctly? You're supposed to let it soak for 15-20 minutes.

I learned that the hard way

 

I've let PB Blaster soak for an hour and the bolt (different bolt, different place) still broke.. But, I just waited a few minutes, so no. I also have KROIL, which is better, but hella expensive.

How did you learn the hard way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you learn the hard way? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Expecting pb blaster to work instantly like magic and I broke several bolts that way. I was actually working on a helmet.

 

That sucks. I'm going to search for how much a bolt extractor would cost..

 

Do you think this will work ok?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...vel=0

 

Hm The one i have looks like a pyramid with a square top. And it's edged like a file.

There's been advertisements on t.v. for one like it. I think it's called "bulldog bit" or something.

If I see something I'll be sure to post it.

That should work though. It says it should.

 

Damn, i can't buy it at sears, i can only get it shipped.. Crap!

 

This should work, I'd think: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...+Dies

$2.19

 

why not grind away at the other end make it flat on opposite ends and then unscrew it??

 

Well I don't have a screw/bolt extractor yet, that's why. Good idea though.

 

it's probably completely rusted/seized to the sleeve in the bushing.
a bolt extractor might not cut the mustard.

I've had this situation before with LCA's.

 

I seized a bolt in the cast fork the shock sits in. I tried the extractor, vice grips, dremels, etc. I had to replace the fork. Try this site. Good Luck. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

 

Cut a notch in it with a dremmel and unscrew it with a flat-head.

 

that nut is known for seizing.

 

imo id cut it. you have a camber kit already so why not. id cut it, break the nut off and get a new bolt and a lock nut. i dont think a bolt remover will take that out if its seized enough to break it. but then again i could be wrong.

 

Billy Mays will sell you the grab it. however if you cant break it loose i doubt a drill will

 

Had the same problem, had to cut through the bushing on the side that the bolt didnt break off of. I then rotated the control arm back and forth once disconneted from the car and let it break it self off the too some vice grips on the inside part with the control was and backeded it out slowly.

 

it is most likely frozen in the bushing. no ez-out will remove that. especially sears ones.... those fuggers are brittle and break. only solution is a cut off wheel. cut the upper arms comepletely out, then you will be able to remove the bolt with the vicegrip method on the exposed threads like you tried. good luck.

 

Update, I went in there with a Dewalt cut-off wheel and took care of business.. I just cut the damn bolt off in three places and it dropped clean out! I can't reuse the stock arm, but I didn't need it anyways.. Time to drop by lowes and get a new nut and bolt for each side!

 

w00t

 

I was going to say..."F*ck it, just cut the welded nut off the trailing arm and put a new nut on w/ lock washer"

 

Yeah, I need to get a lock washer, I just have a new nut/bolt. I looked the bolt/nut size up in my helms manual and it said, "M10x1.25MM. Didn't say the length so I got a 50MM, 60MM, and 75MM bolt. I know the 75MM is too large but Lowes didn't have anything in between 50 and 75. So I dropped by home depot this morning and grabbed two 60MM bolts.