setup is h&r race w/ koni yellows. i already have the front perch on the lowest setting, and the rear is in the middle, which evens out the height. the front wheel cutout being bigger makes it look higher in the front. if i could get another 1/2 inch outta the front i'd be happy. here's a pic for reference. short of getting different springs, which i don't know of any that would be any lower, i'm outta ideas. i don't really wanna go to coilovers.

thoughts/advice?

 

nice, clean and simple...

 

use EF front shock forks, they will sit the shock body further down

 

this is off topic, but i just want to research more before i purchase my coilovers. how is the set up? is the ride smooth?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kiddcarbuff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use EF front shock forks, they will sit the shock body further down </TD></TR></TABLE>

since the forks have the notch for the bolt to ride, are the ef forks physically shorter? just thinkin since the struts are indented, the fork would have to be shorter. is this what your saying? thanx for the tip.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectkle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is off topic, but i just want to research more before i purchase my coilovers. how is the set up? is the ride smooth?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, ride is smooth. the koni adjustability really helps. i have em about in the middle(between hard/soft), and i love it.

 

that's the set up i am planning to go with. do your wheels rub against the wheel well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jredhonn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's the set up i am planning to go with. do your wheels rub against the wheel well? </TD></TR></TABLE>

not at all...

 

yeah the EF forks are physically shorter, im using them in my EG sedan w/ koni yellows and H&R race springs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kiddcarbuff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah the EF forks are physically shorter, im using them in my EG sedan w/ koni yellows and H&R race springs</TD></TR></TABLE>

no they are not.

The EF and DA forks are exactly the same and so are the EG and DC and all 4 of them have the same height (no matter what anyone tells you). EF/DA fork on left, EG/DC fork on right:

http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/EFhybridsus.php

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thelate1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thoughts/advice?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

with koni yellows, you can safely remove the brake collar and lower the shock in the front fork about 1/2", which will be about 3/4" extra drop. try that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with koni yellows, you can safely remove the brake collar and lower the shock in the front fork about 1/2", which will be about 3/4" extra drop. try that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool, thanx. won't that interfere with the indent in the strut for the fork bolt? if i remember correctly i pounded the brake collar on, so it probably won't come off too easily. maybe i can just take the dremel, and make a relief cut.

thanx so much for the info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no they are not.

The EF and DA forks are exactly the same and so are the EG and DC and all 4 of them have the same height (no matter what anyone tells you). EF/DA fork on left, EG/DC fork on right:

http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/EFhybridsus.php

</TD></TR></TABLE>my bad, i was told that i had EF forks on my EG when i bought it, oh well. now i know better, thanks

 

apparently, you dont have to worry about the indent. just thread it in.

theres a thread with pics about it, but i cant find it right now.

im not going to speak for koni, or anyone who represents koni here on this board, but they know about it and dont seem to make a big deal if you do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">apparently, you dont have to worry about the indent. just thread it in.

theres a thread with pics about it, but i cant find it right now.

im not going to speak for koni, or anyone who represents koni here on this board, but they know about it and dont seem to make a big deal if you do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? huh, nice to know. i'll have to try this....
thanx.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
theres a thread with pics about it, but i cant find it right now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unfortunately whoever was hosting that great before & after pic has taken it down and I did not personally save it to rehost. I still have the writeup in my notepad, so I will paste it here:

Here is CRX lee's how too on mounting your koni's lower in the fork...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.

You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).

Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.

BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thelate1, did you cut your bump-stops when you installed these springs? I ask because the H&R "race" springs are known to be one of the lowest lowering springs on the market. If you don't cut the bump-stops down to about 1" length, your car will simply sit on them and get as low as it can go.

BTW: Koni recommends NEVER to use the lowered perch settings with aftermarket lowering springs. The lower perch grooves were specifically designed for OEM springs. The problem is that lowering springs are progressive, and specifically designed to stiffen up before the car bottoms out. If you lower the car more, it will not stiffen up in time, and cause damage to the shocks.

IMO: You should definitely check out the bump-stops first. Then try the shock-fork trick. Then if that's still not enough, take your chances with the lower perch setting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thelate1, did you cut your bump-stops when you installed these springs? I ask because the H&R "race" springs are known to be one of the lowest lowering springs on the market. If you don't cut the bump-stops down to about 1" length, your car will simply sit on them and get as low as it can go.

BTW: Koni recommends NEVER to use the lowered perch settings with aftermarket lowering springs. The lower perch grooves were specifically designed for OEM springs. The problem is that lowering springs are progressive, and specifically designed to stiffen up before the car bottoms out. If you lower the car more, it will not stiffen up in time, and cause damage to the shocks.

IMO: You should definitely check out the bump-stops first. Then try the shock-fork trick. Then if that's still not enough, take your chances with the lower perch setting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, bumpstops are cut. i'd had it on these perch settings ever since i lowered it. it's been almost 4 yrs. car rides nice and smooth, and doesn't seem to bottom out unless i hit a really bad dip. thanx for the write up, but i'm second guessing going lower now that turbo kit is on. ground clearance is really an issue now. do you think it looks bad how my car is sitting now?

 

I think the car looks great and I probably wouldn't change a thing. Especially if your worried about ground clearance. If you really want the front fender gap to look the same as the rear, you could raise the rear to the next higher snap ring setting. It will give the car's body lines a raked look though as the rear fender arch is actually lower than the front. It would also require another alignment...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the car looks great and I probably wouldn't change a thing. Especially if your worried about ground clearance. If you really want the front to "look" lower, you can raise the rear to the next higher snap ring setting. But that would require another alignment... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree. just raise the rear.

 

LOL! Tyson quoted me before I finished my ninja edit...