how hard is it going to be to do it? take a stab at boneyard prices? is the coupe and sedan subframe the same? how is it done, is it fairly straightforward

 

why r u replacing this?

 

i curbed it really hard and bent the hell out of the LCA and popped off a sway bar end link and probably blew the shock too, and hurt the radius rod



Modified by 361 accord at 3:03 PM 8/6/2007

 

Start taking things off and see how it goes. I'm sure that whatever needs to come off will be obvious. If you wanna fly me down to TX and feed me for however long I'll be there, I'll help ya get it swapped out.

 

ouch, painful memories

I slid into a curd during the winter once... bent the sway bar, radius rod, LCA and messed up the subframe where the LCA bolts to it.

to remove it is sorta lengthy.

-you first need to remove most of the lower suspension parts and support the knuckles in some way, also remember to unbolt and pop the tie rods free from the knuckles.
-You then will want to unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and from the block, probably remove a couple hangers as well to allow it to sit on the ground out of the way.
-Then remove center beam of the front subframe.
-Now disconnect the power steering lines from the power steering rack.
-Inside the car, remove the rubber boot around the steering shaft and then unbolt the steering shaft (be sure to mark the two parts so you can put them back together the same way).
-Now remove the driver side tie rod from the power steering rack.
-Unbolt the power steering rack from the subframe and remove it from the car.
-Support the engine and unbolt the engine from the rear mount.
-Now unbolt the subframe and remove it from the car.
-Swap the motor mount from the damaged subframe to the newer subframe and start installing in reverse order.

I bought my subframe from a local junkyard and it cost me $125. I also bought a LCA from them but I can't remember the price exactly, maybe $30? I couldn't find the right radius rod or sway bar so I bought those new from Majestic (HAP).

Good Luck

 

doesnt sound all too bad really, as long as theres no welding or stuff

so i should remover the whole exaust system? since the all the bolts o the cat are soldered on right? and put the exhaust in the backyard for a while

and dont you mean support the LCA's cuz that what thew car is on right now on jacks

it sounds a little complicated but would i be able to do it in the garage at the house?

and what year accord did you do this on

 

oh i forgot to ask too, did you do this all yourself? or witha friend in the driveway or what

 

night bump

 

See how much the subframe is damaged. If it's not too bad, you might get away with not replacing it. Change out the LCA and radius rod, and get it on the alignment rack to see how good/bad it looks.

 

word i may do that i know i need a LCA its bent to hell

 

no, there isn't any welding.

you can remove the whole exhaust but you can just unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and drop the front half of the exhaust, this will give you enough room.

The bolts at the cat are not soldered or welded or anything. Just heat plus rust makes for a bad combination when it comes to removing those bolts. You don't need to loosen those though.

no, not the LCA, support the knuckle after you've unbolted the LCA's from the subframe. You'll have to move those jacks to the sides of the car where the jack points are. To remove the subframe you'll have to unbolt the LCA's from it therefor you can no longer hold the car up at those points, besides you have to replace one anyway.

yep, you can do this in the garage sitting on jack stands.

I did this to a 95 Accord EX.

yes, I did this mostly myself. My girls brother was around and gave some help too.

if the subframe is bent/torn/damaged at all I would just replace it. No sense in leaving it and possibly having to deal with a headache later because of it.

 

dang you're up early, im only up cuz i forgot to put my moms ceys in the right place the front suspension on the 6th gens may be different, but ive got a haynes manual that helps, some

it says to use a puller to seperate the lca from the knuckle so it doesnt "violently seperate?
what the hell, do i really need that