Revo or Rhino upper controll arm(camber kit)
Has anyone had any experience with these 2 kits? They look similar but the Revo kit is 150 bucks and the Rhino kit is almost a third of the price. Does the saying you get what you pay for apply here or are no??
Thanks.
Thanks.
Just installed the Rhino kit last week. Seems okay so far. For the price, you can always replace the ball joints.
There is a thread I made a while back on the Rhino kit so far works good on my H22 Crx I have had them on it for atleast 6 months...yes ball joints are replacable...from the ebay dealer as well. I replaced hardware with 10.9. The Rhino did require some grinding but for the $60 shipped not a bad deal...I believe the Revo's don't need any modding...but they cost about an additional $100
So far, I have had no need for grinding (no discernible or audible contact with the fender.)
I had a rattle after I installed my coilovers, and I thought the Rhino kit was to blame. Turns out it was loose tower bolts and was solve subsequently.
In my book, Rhino =
I had a rattle after I installed my coilovers, and I thought the Rhino kit was to blame. Turns out it was loose tower bolts and was solve subsequently.
In my book, Rhino =
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i have the revo kit....works well ...no problems... been roockin them over a year. didnt have to grind anything either... i forget what i paid tho.. i did get them on ebay
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dem0nk1d »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if they work rock'em. saves money on your tires.
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Actually camber dosnt kill tires, Toe does. With a proper alignment you are golden. Camber kits are a waist of money.
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Actually camber dosnt kill tires, Toe does. With a proper alignment you are golden. Camber kits are a waist of money.
yea i have the rhino kit. no where close to +/-4 but its ok. I had to hammer the front left to get the bushing to fit in it. So dont hammer it because it will be a pain when it bends like mine did. Works great for $70!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uselesslabel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually camber dosnt kill tires, Toe does. With a proper alignment you are golden. Camber kits are a waist of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you have proof of that? because taking into consideration what our cars face everyday, that statement is untrue.
Actually camber dosnt kill tires, Toe does. With a proper alignment you are golden. Camber kits are a waist of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you have proof of that? because taking into consideration what our cars face everyday, that statement is untrue.
"an alignment and your golden" i got an "alignment" and camber kit and my tires still bow in camber is the degree inward or outward your tires are pointing if camber means somthing else let me know...toe is the front or rear of the tire. camber top and bottom
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DS_Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"an alignment and your golden" i got an "alignment" and camber kit and my tires still bow in camber is the degree inward or outward your tires are pointing if camber means somthing else let me know...toe is the front or rear of the tire. camber top and bottom
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ur correct, if top of tire leans in that is negative camber and vice versa.
</TD></TR></TABLE>ur correct, if top of tire leans in that is negative camber and vice versa.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you have proof of that? because taking into consideration what our cars face everyday, that statement is untrue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lots of proof. and theory.
camber simply doesnt wear tires as much as toe does. ive got plenty of tires to prove it. so do others.
its rather sophomoric to think that camber is the cause of uneven tire wear just because it corresponds to the direction your tire leans at static height.
when you change ride height, like changing springs, camber changes, but so does toe. its not as noticable to the eye so its over looked. its the toe change that is the cause of the tire wear. with bad toe, you are constantly scrubbing your tires. with negative camber, youre just rolling on that side of the tire more.
get a camber kit. its your car. pay as little as you can for it too. just dont ignore getting an alignment to fix that toe.
if you wanted better handling, youd keep the negative camber and get your car aligned. if you want to maximize grip in a straight line, then you even the camber out. you lose cornering grip tho. why do you think honda is known for handling? its because of the controlled negative camber and toe change that double wishbone suspension offers. youre just messing with it by removing negative camber.
do you have proof of that? because taking into consideration what our cars face everyday, that statement is untrue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lots of proof. and theory.
camber simply doesnt wear tires as much as toe does. ive got plenty of tires to prove it. so do others.
its rather sophomoric to think that camber is the cause of uneven tire wear just because it corresponds to the direction your tire leans at static height.
when you change ride height, like changing springs, camber changes, but so does toe. its not as noticable to the eye so its over looked. its the toe change that is the cause of the tire wear. with bad toe, you are constantly scrubbing your tires. with negative camber, youre just rolling on that side of the tire more.
get a camber kit. its your car. pay as little as you can for it too. just dont ignore getting an alignment to fix that toe.
if you wanted better handling, youd keep the negative camber and get your car aligned. if you want to maximize grip in a straight line, then you even the camber out. you lose cornering grip tho. why do you think honda is known for handling? its because of the controlled negative camber and toe change that double wishbone suspension offers. youre just messing with it by removing negative camber.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you have proof of that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2061494
do you have proof of that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2061494
first of all camber kills tires eventhough not as bad as toe any one who says camber kits are a waste is a retard or dosent have a lowered enough car to care i personaly run camber kits on all my lowered cars and i save drasticly on tires because i dont go through them nearly as fast not to mention that when you use a camber kit it gets more of your foot print on the ground. as for the camber kits rihno or revo i know a few people here with the revo and they like it alot i know no one with the rino but the web site it self says you may have to modify the controll arm to make it fit and that just seems like a bad idea. ill be buying the revo one for my new hatch.
sport compact car had a write up and pictures of normal tire wear versus negative camber versus incorrect toe wear. very slight more wear with negative camber on inner edge compared to stock camber setting. extreme wear with incorrect toe setting as compared to either stock or negative camber.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you have proof of that? because taking into consideration what our cars face everyday, that statement is untrue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its true, I've gone through set after set of tires with -3 degrees camber and zero toe. The inside wears just barely ahead of the outside... like 1/32nd of an inch or so.
But seriously, if you have -1 or -2 degrees up front you should be able to just set the toe and never have a problem.
The only reason I'd ever want to correct camber back to zero would be for a drag car.
do you have proof of that? because taking into consideration what our cars face everyday, that statement is untrue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its true, I've gone through set after set of tires with -3 degrees camber and zero toe. The inside wears just barely ahead of the outside... like 1/32nd of an inch or so.
But seriously, if you have -1 or -2 degrees up front you should be able to just set the toe and never have a problem.
The only reason I'd ever want to correct camber back to zero would be for a drag car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uselesslabel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually camber dosnt kill tires, Toe does. With a proper alignment you are golden. Camber kits are a waist of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Camber dose kill tires. my first EF had chopped springs with 4 degrees negative camber. The inside of my tires had wires showing after about 2 months. The outsides looked band new still. Plus, camber causes your tires to feather. If you rub your hand across the tire outside to inside than vice versa, you will be able to tell if camber is eating your tires.
Actually camber dosnt kill tires, Toe does. With a proper alignment you are golden. Camber kits are a waist of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Camber dose kill tires. my first EF had chopped springs with 4 degrees negative camber. The inside of my tires had wires showing after about 2 months. The outsides looked band new still. Plus, camber causes your tires to feather. If you rub your hand across the tire outside to inside than vice versa, you will be able to tell if camber is eating your tires.



