Went to start the teg today and the starter turns the engine but it doesn't sound like its firing. So I removed the rear seat cushion and turned the key to the start postion, and heard the fuel pump turn on for two seconds like it should. So I have fuel. Next I pulled a plug wire stuck a screwdriver in the end and cranked the engine. The first couple of cranks there was no spark, then it started sparking. It looked orangeish and looked kinda weak.

Now I'm lost. I'm not sure what else to check. Any suggestions?


Modified by Jabinya at 10:15 AM 7/6/2007

 

Check the timing and check to see if you have fuel closer to the motor. If its not starting but turning over and your getting proper fuel, your spark plugs should be soaked in gas.

 

I pulled the tiny bolt of the top of the fuel filter after cranking, it had fuel pressure. Next pulled the plug and it smelled like gas but wasn't visibly soaked. Also I checked battery voltage, OK, and all fuses under the hood, OK.

What else would effect the car starting?

 

Timing. Make sure you didn't blow the timing belt. Remove the oil cap, and have a buddy try to start the engine, while you look in the oil cap hole with a flashlight...if the cam is moving, the belt is still there.

Check the fuel pressure also. Could be a lot of things really. Just start narrowing things down...we'll help you through it best we can.

 

I just called a buddy of mine and he's going to come over and watch the cams while I crank it. If that isn't it I'm going to check the coils and ignitor.

Thanks for the advise guys!

 

If you have a buddy that has a dizzy that is the same as your's, have him/her bring it over, and swap them right quick. If it starts, then you need a dizzy.

 

I just noticed my CEL light was on so I checked it and it gave me a Code 43 (Fuel Supply System) So I'm gonna look up the checking procedure in the Integra factory PDF manual I have hidden somewhere here on my computer.

 

That might be a problem. Friends of mine have had that code, and it hasn't prevented the engine from starting. It would just run a little rich when the check engine light was on. They'd reset the ECU, and it would run fine for awhile, until about 10 miles down the road, the light would come back on, and it would run rich again. That may be your problem, it may not be. Let us know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loudassVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a buddy that has a dizzy that is the same as your's, have him/her bring it over, and swap them right quick. If it starts, then you need a dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And he said he has spark though..

don't fu<u></u>ck around with trying to stick your head in the oil fill location,
Just take the valvecover off, takes 5 minutes at the most, line up your crank,
then look at the cams, make sure they're lined up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And he said he has spark though..

don't fu<u></u>ck around with trying to stick your head in the oil fill location,
Just take the valvecover off, takes 5 minutes at the most, line up your crank,
then look at the cams, make sure they're lined up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It does have spark, but does it have enough? And you don't have to stick your head in the oil fill hole, just look in with a flashlight. It takes about 3 seconds. A friend of mine has a b16, and had this problem. It ended up being his cam timing. It jumped time like 20 degrees. Luckily it didn't damage anything. It would be a good idea to check the cam timing as the guy above me stated.

 

Its the distributor. If it had enough spark it would have given you a nice little shock. Someone mentioned triing someone elses to be sure, thats a great idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommy_h &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Its the distributor. If it had enough spark it would have given you a nice little shock. Someone mentioned triing someone elses to be sure, thats a great idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It wouldn't give you a little shock, unless you were touching ground, and the electrode on the spark plug, or the end of the wire. That's the only way to get shocked. It doesn't just shock you a little either...its a lot of voltage, in the hundreds of thousands of volts. The current is very little...in the mA range.

 

I checked the resistance of the coil pack and it was outside the recomended specs. Going to replace it tomorrow so hopefully this will fix my prob.

 

Good luck! While you are there, you should get an MSD coil !!

 

As far as the little shock statement goes that was an intentional understatment. Remember he was touching the end of the plug wire. It would give you a jolt unless the screwdriver in question had a rubber handle and most are plastic. Not being rude, rather speaking from experince. I've had to learn the hard way a few times.

I hope the coil fixes your problem, please keep us posted.

 

lol Don't worry guys, I laid the screwdriver down before the engine was cranked. I've been shocked before, house and car electric, I don't plan on getting jolted again!

 

Bad news, I replaced the coil and it still won't start. The coil was bad so at least I eliminated that out of the equation. Looking at the distributor cap I noticed a LOT of carbon build up. Odd. I replaced that and the dizzy button less than two months ago. Cleaned it off and tried to start it, nothing. So I checked the ignitor unit and it tested ok.

I'm thinking its fuel related maybe? A clogged fuel line?

 

Probably a clogged fuel filter, rather than a line. I've never actually heard of a clogged fuel line. Did you check the timing?? Maybe you jumped time??

 

did you check and see if your fuel sending unit was working (the gas guage) i know it sounds dumb but it does prevent your car from turning on i know from experience mine accidently came disconnected when i put in my back seat and my car would not start. they should sell spark testers at your local parts store. it looks like a clear spark plug with a plug wire attatched to it. swap ecus how is your battery? ur grounds? did it run fine before all this how long has this been happening? does it start and then die? if so how long will it stay on or is it fine when its on? help us help u.

 

I turned the crank by hand and saw the cam moving but didn't check timing, I will check that next.

Where is the fuel sending unit located? I checked the fuel pump connection, ok.

Battery is old but reads 12.69 volts.

Haven't check the grounds but I will today.

It ran just fine the day before, no warning signs that this was going to happen.

The day before this happened I did have power steering pump leak so I removed the power steering pump belt. Fluid leaked down below the resivoir.

 

Pull off your fpr, and crank it for a second, you'll be able to check for fuel a Lot closer to the engine.

When you check the timing, line up the white mark on the crank with the mark on the lower timing cover,
and the marks on the sides of the cams should line up with the flat piece coming off the upper rear timing cover.

 

Cool, I'm going to check the things you guys mentioned right now.

I just picked up a new motor for the Teg the day before this happened. I was getting ready to drive the car over to my buddy's garage to do the swap when the car wouldn't start. lol Funny how things work out.


Modified by Jabinya at 1:25 PM 7/12/2007

 

Well, I cranked the engine for a while to build up fuel pressure and pulled the fuel pressure regulator; I have plenty of pressure at the rail. I pulled the plugs again and they were visibly soaked; the injectors are working. I cleaned the trans, battery thermostat and valve cover ground. Pulled the valve cover and upper timing belt cover to check timing. Top dead center matched on crank and cam. I did notice some slack on the belt on both ends, I'd say about a 1/4" on both sides. Still, it lined up to TDC perfect. Still won't start. And it's still giving me a CEL code 43.

Damn. I thought I might find the solution today. I just need to get this thing started and running long enough to drive it to my friend's house so I can do my swap.

Anyway, thanks for all the help people. I definitely wouldn't have thought to check some of the stuff that you guys mentioned. I going to continue to check some other things (not sure what yet) and try to get my baby running.

 

AHA!! It was the igniter. I started to go back over all the tests I ran, double checking to see I did them right and I found that I misread the igniter test. It had me check the wires to make sure voltage was getting to the igniter. I thought it said if all wires had voltage the igniter was ok. It's the opposite. Voltage was present so the igniter wasn't functioning properly.

The method I used to test it might be useful for other HTers so here it is;
I used the igniter from a spare OBD1 D series engine I had sitting around. It bolts up exactly the same in my B series engine that wouldn't start. They had different part #s but the electrical connections are the same. I also went on NAPA.com and cross referenced the igniter from a 1993 Honda Civic EX (the spare motor) and my 1994 Integra GSR which has a LS motor in it. The original GSR was shot so that's why I have the LS motor.

It runs so now I can go over to the garage to do my swap! Thanks everyone!

 

I'm glad you got everything running. What engine are you swapping in?? Also, FYI, the timing belt is gonna feel a little loose on a cold engine. The engine actually expands a little when warm, and tightens up the belt. Nothing wrong there. 1/4" is normal.