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Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE

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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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Default Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE

Hi everybody, well another racer was not told about this problem.


PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, do not dyno on our tires.

Be safe, GOOD LUCK and Thank You.

John
M&H
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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sucks. on another note, i dyno'd on your slicks down in florida. made 3 pulls. had about 20psi in them. no problems.

but why isnt it a good idea?
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (SlicksMH)

yes DO NOT DYNO.....i will get my pics up sometime this week and show u guys what happens when there dyno'd...
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 02:46 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (yaaj1320)

we always have dyno'd our car on the slicks with 20 psi of pressure in them. havent had a problem yet.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 04:05 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (dturbocivic)

what are you guys claiming well happen i haven't heard nothing about this
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:49 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (crxsir23)

I know of a guy that I used to be stationed with that dyno'd his Mustang on some slicks. the right rear slick blew out on the dyno and basically totalled the car. On the top end of a full dyno pull on a car that made right at 1000whp the slick let loose and ripped the wheel well out, demolished the quarter panel, and the trunk was all screwed up. It was pretty nasty, however; it was not done on M&H slicks, still slicks non the less. I have always heard not to dyno on slicks personally and never have done it but know alot of people that do.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:31 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (ringgold)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ringgold &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know of a guy that I used to be stationed with that dyno'd his Mustang on some slicks. the right rear slick blew out on the dyno and basically totalled the car. On the top end of a full dyno pull on a car that made right at 1000whp the slick let loose and ripped the wheel well out, demolished the quarter panel, and the trunk was all screwed up. It was pretty nasty, however; it was not done on M&H slicks, still slicks non the less. I have always heard not to dyno on slicks personally and never have done it but know alot of people that do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like the shop doing the testing didn't know how to properly strap a car. blowouts can happen on any set of tires, and the shop should plan on a blowout with every car they put on the dyno.

with regards to the slicks being an issue on a dyno. the only real issue is when you have a lot of tire slip or make to many back to back pulls. this happens when your trying to put more Hp to the rolll than it can handle (traction limitation of dyno). this is a major issue with small roller dyno's and dyno's with poor diamond knurling. you DO NOT want to run slicks on a dyno at low pressure. the more you wrinkle the slick the more heat you are putting into the tire due to it working the rubber. on a track you have lots of wind to keep things cool and on a dyno you do not. when running slicks on a dyno you must let the slick cool between runs or they become gooey and provide less traction than a street tire.

gooey tires + dyno = poor traction, but gooey tire + dragstrip = great traction.

i put at least 35psi into full slicks if i have to run them on the dyno and strap it hard, (always using 4 straps in case of blowouts) but that is only if the customer shows up with them on. i prefer to run a good set of street slicks.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:08 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (trickeng)

I have dynoed with slicks plenty of times before and never had a problem, the one thing that we do is check tire temps between pulls.

Make a couple back to back pulls on the dyno and then feel the slicks.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:13 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (miller)

On big power cars you have no choice but to dyno with slicks...
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:20 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (tony1)

26 inch drag radials!!

i hate dyno'ing my car, its scary. i normally do it on slicks, but the 26 MT drag radials seemed to work just as well.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:32 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (Turbo-charged)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">26 inch drag radials!!

i hate dyno'ing my car, its scary. i normally do it on slicks, but the 26 MT drag radials seemed to work just as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

SCARY?? specially with two guys standing in the door jams to add weight!!!!
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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Default Re: Bias ply Slicks and D.O.T. + Dyno = DAMAGE (tony1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On big power cars you have no choice but to dyno with slicks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but you'd be surprised how much power a shitty old street tire could hold too... We did a ford lightling truck at 1100hp with street tires...

Some cars you have no choice and have to run a slick.
If's that the case you need to do some things you normally wouldn't do at the track.

The hotter they get the more rubber they spit out so keep them cool...
Big power cars need some time in between runs anyway.

You don't want the slicks to wrinkle on the dyno. You want them to stay as round as possible so fill them with alot of tire pressure. 35psi is a good number.

Street tires are preferred on a dyno because they don't get out of shape on the dyno, since they have harder sidewalls and can tolerate the heat better allowing you to make mulitple runs without issue.

Ever stand near a slick going 170hp? Not pretty.. Imagine it blowing up.
Doesn't matter if the car is strapped up good or not.

Most dyno rollers(at least the good ones) have aggressive knurling that will chew up a slick in no time so if possible avoid using them.



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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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if you have that much power, chances are that you need to find a brake dyno...know what I mean??
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Default Re: (pomansouth01)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pomansouth01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have that much power, chances are that you need to find a brake dyno...know what I mean??</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, what do you mean? Are you talking about an engine dyno?
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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Default Re: (tony1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pomansouth01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have that much power, chances are that you need to find a brake dyno...know what I mean??</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think he means like a dynapack so you don't have to use tires but you don't have to have the engine out of the car
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:22 PM
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Default Re: (rhdrob)

Just dynoed today on my M&H dot's with no problem. It was on Joe Simpsons dynojet. Thanks Joe!!!
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Default Re: (rhdrob)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhdrob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i think he means like a dynapack so you don't have to use tires but you don't have to have the engine out of the car </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually it's quite easy to max out a dynapack..

Engine dyno would suit high hp engines better then a chassis dyno.
But then again it's easy to max out an engine dyno too...

In the end the track remains the only result most people care about anyway.
And this is where you end up tuning very hp cars...
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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Default Re: (sc4dr)

It amazes me how a rep from a company comes on here and tells you do not do something and everybody says that he is wrong. I would think that he knows his product. But I guess you guys know his job better than he does. Than when it happens to you I bet that you will come on hear and say his product sucks because it broke while it was being used in a way in which he told you not to use it.


I dont know if any of you have been standing next to a car and had a slick come apart during a pull. Its not fun.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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Default Re: (N2O)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N2O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I dont know if any of you have been standing next to a car and had a slick come apart during a pull. Its not fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup last week actually
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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Default Re: (N2O)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N2O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It amazes me how a rep from a company comes on here and tells you do not do something and everybody says that he is wrong. I would think that he knows his product. But I guess you guys know his job better than he does. Than when it happens to you I bet that you will come on hear and say his product sucks because it broke while it was being used in a way in which he told you not to use it.


I dont know if any of you have been standing next to a car and had a slick come apart during a pull. Its not fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't say he was wrong, I took the chance. I don't blame people for any mistakes I make. We were talking about this in another thread, and a guy had a whole tread peel off. It looked like the tire rubbed the pinch weld on the shock tower.....then this thread was created.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:06 PM
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Default Re: (N2O)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N2O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It amazes me how a rep from a company comes on here and tells you do not do something and everybody says that he is wrong. I would think that he knows his product. But I guess you guys know his job better than he does. Than when it happens to you I bet that you will come on hear and say his product sucks because it broke while it was being used in a way in which he told you not to use it.


I dont know if any of you have been standing next to a car and had a slick come apart during a pull. Its not fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

who is saying he's wrong? We're just saying we've done it with no problems, and that we'll probably do it again unless we're told whats the big problems. (yes, i read the part about the pressure in the tires and cooling them)
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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Default Re: (RPRacing)

Yeah, nobodys saying he's wrong. When you have a dynojet and a race car that makes big power, it takes a sticky tire to do any testing on it. Some of us do not have the luxury of an engine dyno or a dynopack. We do what we have to do.

It's dangerous racing cars too, but we do it anyway...
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:14 PM
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Default Re: (tony1)

i just coat my slicks heavily with VHT. then do about 1-2 pulls then wait about 30 min so the car cools

i use MT tires with about 15-17 psi in them
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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Default Re: (ALL IMPORT)

we use cheap spray-on belt dressing, makes them sticky , easy to apply
and cool downs between pulls , havent had this misfortune yet but thanks for warning , def will think twice about this and where we stand during puills
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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Default Re: (fast forward driver)

i was actually going to buy the MH 13/25/9 slicks for sfwd class but now i am second guessing myself about it.
can i have a good reason why they dont work on a dyno but yet they do at the track?
doesnt seem to add up 2 me
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