The tuner did 2 practise runs on the dyno..make sure everything sounds ok at high RPMs. We didnt hear any knocking or any unusual noise. So he started tuning on the 3rd run..which came out to 162WHP..TQ I dont know..he said it should have been a little higher. so he did another run and at 7000. heard a little knock and my car stoped.

We pulled off my valve cover to see anything unusual in the valve train. and 1 exhaust valve and 1 intake valve were open REALLY WIDE! and smoke coming out of only 1 cylinder(white/grey smoke) So we took out the spark plug(will post pics soon)
The spark plug was all chewed up and bunch of pieces inside my cylinder wall.looks like I broke a valve. and the pieces of the broken valve smacked into the spark plug...

My head as fully built. The only thing that wasnt changed on my head were the valve guides..The master honda tech and the tuner said.the valve guides were bad. apparently they were too tight on the valves. causing them not to go in and out how they are suppose to..And I skipped 2 teeth on my timing belt..the out come possibly 2 broken valves..and not going back to the machine shop that told me my valve guides are okay..


here is my setup if some of you dont know..

Darton Ductile Iron Sleeves bored 84mm
JE pistons 84mm(11.5:1 Compression)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ACL race main/rods bearings
Head has been ported & polished stage 3(3 angle valve job)
KMS development valves, KMS titanium Retainers, & Dual valve springs
Skunk2 Pro-Series 2+ cams
Skunk2 cam gears
Skunk2 pro series intake manifold
Edelbrock 65mm Throttle body
AEM air intake system
Stock OEM type r ignition system w/ NGK iridium
310cc RC engineering injectors
AEM fuel Rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator & AEM FUEL FILTER
Walbro 342 Fuel Pump
Honda OEM 98 spec Type-R Header straight piped to my exhaust
RS-R Exmag Exhaust

ROTATING ASSEMBLY HAS BEEN FULLY BALANCED

 

A dream accomplished, and a dream destroyed.

 

That sucks man real bad... Hope everything goes well at my dyno session

 

Sorry to hear that. I hope that bottom end is salvageable.

 

that was my worst night mare eventhough i did all the work and crossed all the Ts and dotted the i's ....i was still worried but so far so good...sorry about that man good luch rebuild its worth it in the end

 

hopefully...I should be back up and running by July..going to go with the skunk2 valve train..hopefully.. the pieces inside didnt scar my cylinder walls too bad, or damage my head...or even the piston...

 

my worst nightmare became reality.....I did all the work myself too. They did compliment my build though..said it was the cleanest they have seen.as far as wiring, the motor swap, and the motor build was really clean..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chillinit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to hear that. I hope that bottom end is salvageable. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16nonoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hopefully...I should be back up and running by July..going to go with the skunk2 valve train..hopefully.. the pieces inside didnt scar my cylinder walls too bad, or damage my head...or even the piston...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hate to say it but if you broke a valve, your head and piston are prob messed up badly. and you prob are going to have to bore your block.

What sound did it make?

post pics of the plug.

good luck.

 

yea hopefully not though..it didnt make that loud of a sound..but it was a knock.and then it stoped running...if my piston aint too messed up.I could prolly use some watcha ma call it cloth.and smooth out the dents and stuff so there wont be hot spots....I will maybe pull the head off next weekend...and see how everything else looks...will post pics..later today...

 

Just curious how the "master tech" can tell you your guides are too tight when he has not seen them yet. What did you degree the Pro2's in at? 100 IN ctr line and 106 EX ctr line?
Also what is the lift capability of the KMS springs and retainers? Do their seat and open pressures match the Pro cams?


Modified by DonF at 8:26 PM 4/8/2007

 

If youre going to rebuild this one, take the time and do it right. Im with DonF on the guide comment too. Thats a load of bullshit. At least with the head off, you can hold the valve by the head in wiggle it a bit in the guide to get an idea of the wear, but just looking at it with the valve cover removed? Please.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16nonoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
KMS development valves, KMS titanium Retainers, & Dual valve springs
Skunk2 Pro-Series 2+ cams
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I didnt build the head..a machine shop guy did it for me...did some computer work for him and he was suppose to return the favor..but yea...wish I was the one that put it together myself.... and take it to another machine shop to get a second opinion on the valve guides..&gt;I was originally iffy on that...

 

yea..it wasnt my valve train package..it was the OEM valve guides..worn out or no good... also...have heard anything bad about KMS...but I am changing to Skunk2 since I have it open...

 

old oem valve guides may get a little loose, the valve job doesnt last as long. but I dont see them having much to do with your failure. do you know the specs on your valve springs?

 

http://www.honda-performance.com/

those are the ones I bought

 

Don't know much about KMS valvetrain so I will not put blame on them.

However, Pro2's are very big and have a good deal of low lift duration, if you aren't careful you can easily get valve-to-valve contact. If you did not clay the motor, I would be hesitant to run more than +2 on the intake, and always advance the exhaust cam a few degrees for safety margin. Off the shelf JE's aren't known for their deep valve reliefs.

Valve guides rarely fail. With that being said, I would say it was a high probability of either coil bind or v2v,p2v.


Modified by 92TypeR at 10:25 PM 4/10/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16nonoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My head as fully built. The only thing that wasnt changed on my head were the valve guides..The master honda tech and the tuner said.the valve guides were bad. apparently they were too tight on the valves. causing them not to go in and out how they are suppose to..And I skipped 2 teeth on my timing belt..the out come possibly 2 broken valves..and not going back to the machine shop that told me my valve guides are okay..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

it your valve guides were to tight then they needed to be honed out, not replaced.
they would only be bad it the valve guides were too loose

 

my piston to valve clearance was checked. with vtec engaged...I have also drove it around with vtec engaging..and didnt have that issue...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't know much about KMS valvetrain so I will not put blame on them.

However, Pro2's are very big and have a good deal of low lift duration, if you aren't careful you can easily get valve-to-valve contact. If you did not clay the motor, I would be hesitant to run more than +2 on the intake, and always retard the exhaust cam a few degrees for safety margin. Off the shelf JE's aren't known for their deep valve reliefs.

Valve guides rarely fail. With that being said, I would say it was a high probability of either coil bind or v2v,p2v.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd blame the valvetrain, unless they marked it up and said it will support a 12.5+MM lift..correct me if i'm wrong..buts only a hand full of valvetrain's that will support the pro2/3's lift..

 

damn that sucks

 

pm sent

 

What Valve Size?
What was the Installed Height and Coil Bind Specs for the Springs?
What were the Opening #'s for the Pro 2 Cams @ .040 or what were your cams gears set at?
How much was your head & block Milled?
What was the Valve to Piston Clearence at the valve margin?


Modified by PURE Tuning at 9:46 PM 4/12/2007

 

hey did to runs to high rpm without tunning thats the first thing you don't do. Id find a new tunner to