..how would you go about making the b18b lively via n/a? from the research i've gathered, this is what i'm thinking..

usual mods associated with airflow (intake, header, exhaust)
high compression pistons
port and polish
crower 404's with upgraded valves, springs, retainers
intake manifold
s-afc and some dyno time

what do you guys think so far? i've been debating n/a vs f/i and just weighing my options. i want this car to last reliably through my college years and well past it if i desire. also, i'm not about being *****-out fast. i don't race at all..just drive quick at times....would this be a good route to take?

thanks in advance!

one more thing, i enjoy the occasional redline and highrevving.. would it be detrimental to my engine's health if i raised the redline (after making sure the engine could handle it, of course) and hit 8k occasionally just to amuse my easily amused self?


[Modified by lshobo, 4:04 AM 5/24/2002]


[Modified by lshobo, 4:13 AM 5/24/2002]

 

You want a reliable honda
stay n/a.
Looks like you got the right idea as far as mods go.
Building a reliable FI is possible but
cost a lot of $$, way more than n/a.

 

im shootin fer all motor b18b too... ordering JE 11.5-1 pistons and eagle rods and and they are gonna micro polish my crank.. not a bad price if u know what your doing. i wanna go all motor cuz then i can impress people in turbos when i blow by them

 

HAHAHAHAH! good luck man. built turbo LSs OWN!

 

i always hear about how turbo ls's own this and that. and for the most part, i think it's true. I know if i turboed my ls, i'd lay some heavy power to the ground. however, like most people on here, i'm a full-time student with only a part-time job, which means going turbo is too big of a wad to blow at once. if i could get it done, i would do it right the first time but that would cost upwards of 5gs or more. i just don't have that kind of money or credit.

man, sometimes i feel like i don't even own my car..it owns me

 

I hear ya man.
Im a student myself.
thats why I went the all motor route.

 

It will take lots of money to make the b18b an all motor monster. With higher compression pistons, bolt ons, p&p head, big cams, chipped ecu, you could probably run low 14's. That's not exactly a monster, and you'll spend a penny to get it even there.

 

but its fun to build something over time

 

heres my plan

crower 404's or better cams (rockets medium grind )
(https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=171619)
crower valve sprigns/retainers
port and polish head
p30 (b16a) pistons .25 over
balance crank crank pulley fw and pressure plate (the whole rotating assy)
gsr block girdle and associated hardware
arp rod bolts and head studs
skunk2 intake mani
jdm 4-1 header with 2.5" back exhaust
cai

nothing else i can think of but im hoping to get real low 14's

 

Where do you base this information from? If he wanted to go all motor, you'd recommend him spending more than all those mods would cost on a GSR swap to put him at high 14's at best? I'm running mid 14's with my half finished LS.

 

When did I ever say GSR swap?

 

You didn't, it was the only thing that came to mind as a "better" alternative for somebody wanting to go all motor.

 

b20vtec
lsvtec
both better than a GSR swap, and for the price of a GSR swap either one of those will be fully built revving to 9k.

 

hey thanks for the replies guys. nice to know there are some pro n/a nonvtec people out there. haha. and when i said 'all motor monster,' i didn't literally mean it, like comin at ya with 300 n/a whp. i just like saying 'all motor monster' because i feel it has a nice ring to it . all i'm really looking to do is get from point a to point b quicker, spank lightly modded si's and gsrs, and maybe even give some stock r's a run for their money (?).

b20vtec and ls/vtec are viable options, but i have a sneaky suspicion it will cost more money than expected to get it running as reliably as a 'true' motor with block and head intact. plus, this is my daily driver and i can't risk extra downtime

edit: i just noticed that i contradicted myself by saying i don't race, yet i want to spank on si's and gsr's. lol...just in case anyone is wondering, i don't race because no one ever tries to race me, and i never rev at other people. it's probably because i'm bone stock (cept for the nice hole in my airbox). if i start modding my car for hp, people will probably be throwing revs at me left and right...that's when the spanking shall begin.


[Modified by lshobo, 11:17 PM 5/24/2002]

 

You can't build a b20vtec for the price of porting, cams, spings, retainers & header.

 

i'm buildin my b18b up. my list is on my sig. oh, add to that a s.a.e.m. i dont know which on yet...either tec or aem. which ever is cheaper and easyeir to install/setup

 

been there done that... not worth it in my opinion, but then again, i didnt swap trannies... anyway, you wanna go naturally aspirated with that b18b...get the stuff you mentioned, and ALSO get a GSR TRANNY. hell, even just the tranny swap alone should make your car haul some ***. and if you want an SAFC, i got one for sale btw

 

The plan for my B18A is as follows:

-Port and polished stock PR4 head with '94+ Intake manifold
-Crower "404" cams
-Crower springs and Ti retainers
-Crower stainless valves
-SRP 10.5:1 pistons, standard bore
-Crower Econo Billet rods
-Holley 950 Commander engine management system (on it's way right now... )
-Holley fuel pump
-B&M adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-Autometer Fuel pressure guage
-undecided fuel rail
-undecided injectors
-MSD 6AL ignition controller
-MSD distributor cap
-MSD Capacitor
-undecided 4-2-1 single piece stainless Header - Port and polish to head also.

I will be resourceful on my Cold Air intake and use the stock airbox from my '98 Tacoma with a K&N filter.

I thought about going VTEC...but would rather have less things to deal with when working on the motor (valve adjustments, electrical connections, wondering how do I plug it in to an aftermarket computer...) Plus I like the torque potential of the B18A/B's better than the B16's and B18c's... I'm hoping to get around 150lb/ft and 180hp without too much trouble. And since everything is lighter and stronger than stock, it should be pretty durable too.


[Modified by Vracer111, 6:44 PM 5/24/2002]

 

Get at least a GSR tranny, even an ITR with LSD or b16 tranny would be better. And I know that a b20vtec costs more than p&p, cams, springs, retainers, etc....but you can sell the LS longblock to make up the difference, and you have one hell of an all motor screamer on your hands...but it is around the price of a GSR, and your lsvtec or b20vtec will be fully built. I'm not trying to hate on the LS, because I have one too, and it is a good motor.

 

Tranny will either be a GSR or Civic SI - either one will have a Quaife LSD installed...


[Modified by Vracer111, 6:43 PM 5/24/2002]

 

I'd get a Z10 girdle, GSR or R oil pump, GSR windage tray, oil pump pickup and oil pan. This will aid in life if you plan to rev upto or even past 8k RPM.

BTW: I've got a ls/vtec and it's wonderful

-Alan

 

b18b is the way to go
I'm building a GS/CRV with high compression pistons and Crower 404's plus my current mods in my sig. It will be done by around august, just saving the money for the parts and labour now.

 

GSR trans with LSD is the way to go. SI/ITR tranny's gearing is to short for our b18a/b motors. Unless its only going to be a full race car.

 

all motor in a integra i don't think is worth it but a all motor b18b in a hatch....HMMMMMMMMM

 

What about shimming up the B18A oil pump spring for higher pressure - are there major difference between a Type R and B18A oil pump that would justify getting it instead of shimming a B18A oil pump (I just got a brand new OEM B18 oil pump)?

Z-10, add that to the list I guess... I saw another piece that I'm not sure about, its a water jacket brace which fits flush under the head and braces the cylinders. I could always make my own if needed.

BTW the Holley 950 engine management system came in today, way earlier than I expected....whooohooo.